Ricardo, if its not in my hands, and it is a construction or part issue, it also have never been reported before after so many all style builds, you know the procedure. One by one, but the major suspect is the lacquer, since it worked before. Don't know how it dries.
If you allow me a quick OT, I was working lately on a new shunt, which is besides the point really, because what I want to share with you is a little program that I really like. It's called kicad, and it's open source, freely available for windows, linux, etc. It is a schematic capture and pcb design program. It took me about a day to get up to speed with it, but it seems to be powerful and very capable of nice results. I know it's not eaglecad, but I think I like this one more. It even has a 3d view thingy, see attached 😀
Attachments
And back to the topic, I'm beginning to suspect the board, like salas. If you have any traces that are close together, you may want to check for tiny solder bits that may short circuit the tracks. I was quite surprised when I looked with a magnifying glass on a board I made once.
You will find the culprit. I am sure.
Good to experiment with parts at hand here. Some caps are plainly offending, some seem to disappear. There's experience in old posts, this one.
Ricardo, sometimes the shoulders of resisters become loose when heat is applied. Maybe your problem is related. Gently pushing them one by one might take you somewhere.
phono mod &co.
Hi
I have replace all signal resitor (dale) with shinkoh ,plus some prp on b+ jfet side,
not
mod ,the voice are little dry but more clear as the hight ,very clean and smooth ,removed the fuzzy on my new 300B.
guys try this mod : I put the - speaker wire on the basket of my FR, I can confirm that humblehomemadehifi is rigth !!
Hi
I have replace all signal resitor (dale) with shinkoh ,plus some prp on b+ jfet side,
not
mod ,the voice are little dry but more clear as the hight ,very clean and smooth ,removed the fuzzy on my new 300B.guys try this mod : I put the - speaker wire on the basket of my FR,
I can confirm that humblehomemadehifi is rigth !!Attachments
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Just did it again !
After replacing 1 component (The board) 🙂 I finally finished the DL160 riaa.
First impressions are at home using a benz ace clear: absolutely no hum (due to the outboard psu)
Very good overall balance without any harshness. (The BGNx will provide even more smoothness with über detail)
Dynamics not as good as the benz salas riaa (maybe due to the 1k1 load.. the benz likes 2k2 and also because the first riaa has some outstanding Jensen caps in the psu)
It is burning for 30 minutes now so I must wait before I try serious comments.
Ricardo
PS: I tried freezing the interconnects but my freezer is not very powerfull so the cables just got cold and damp and .... so I quit... Nevertheless I believe it should do something.
After replacing 1 component (The board) 🙂 I finally finished the DL160 riaa.
First impressions are at home using a benz ace clear: absolutely no hum (due to the outboard psu)
Very good overall balance without any harshness. (The BGNx will provide even more smoothness with über detail)
Dynamics not as good as the benz salas riaa (maybe due to the 1k1 load.. the benz likes 2k2 and also because the first riaa has some outstanding Jensen caps in the psu)
It is burning for 30 minutes now so I must wait before I try serious comments.
Ricardo
PS: I tried freezing the interconnects but my freezer is not very powerfull so the cables just got cold and damp and .... so I quit... Nevertheless I believe it should do something.
Oh that lacquer! Congratulations. It takes 48h of play as you remember. Yes, the load ain't the best for the ACE. Still it will develop dynamically if you spin some vinyl in the next few days. No hum, means more resolution in the bass too. Nice version so to compare parts when played off the same TT.
Hey, don't freeze the cables! They may oxidize. Take a pic of the phono, print it out, and put it in the fridge instead.
😀
Hey, don't freeze the cables! They may oxidize. Take a pic of the phono, print it out, and put it in the fridge instead.
😀
Take a pic of the phono, print it out, and put it in the fridge instead.
You're hilarious salas!Ricardo, bravo. What type lacquer did you use?
I used KONTAKT PLASTIC 70 to paint the underside of the board and so inibit rust. It leaves a shiny surface but now I know it can also produce short circuits. http://www.nedis.com/Articles/Kontakt Chemie/70⁄200.php
It is a product that I must never use.
I am sure this is the problem because now I have one super silent channel (the new one without lacquer) and the other one that still works produces a woosh when idling at full output.
Must determine how to remove the lacquer.
Some might remenber that I had some wooshing and spitting sounds in my first riaa... now I believe it is the lacquer also.
Ricardo
It is a product that I must never use.
I am sure this is the problem because now I have one super silent channel (the new one without lacquer) and the other one that still works produces a woosh when idling at full output.
Must determine how to remove the lacquer.
Some might remenber that I had some wooshing and spitting sounds in my first riaa... now I believe it is the lacquer also.
Ricardo
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Ricardo 😀
Use lacquer thinner to clean the pcb.
By the way, if you wanted to protect the pcb traces from oxidation and if you're rich, Cool Amp silver plating power has been used by some http://www.cool-amp.com/
Some people use pure shellac (a natural laquer which dries fast because it is diluted with high grade alcohol). It has many nice properties, including that you can clean it with alcohol.
http://http://www.shellacepc.com/properties.html
Yes, I love shellac!
If you're really worried about oxidation then a point-to-point construction using insulated wire for the connection might be better.
Use lacquer thinner to clean the pcb.
By the way, if you wanted to protect the pcb traces from oxidation and if you're rich, Cool Amp silver plating power has been used by some http://www.cool-amp.com/
Some people use pure shellac (a natural laquer which dries fast because it is diluted with high grade alcohol). It has many nice properties, including that you can clean it with alcohol.
http://http://www.shellacepc.com/properties.html
Yes, I love shellac!
If you're really worried about oxidation then a point-to-point construction using insulated wire for the connection might be better.
Attachments
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