Per, what cart you had before the AT33EV? I am thinking of 33PTG/II to get as an alternative to 103R.
Mine was quite bright when first started to listen. Much better now after a couple of weeks.
Regards
Yes thats my experience too with most of electronics.
Will be fun to see how it all progresses
Have spun 2 x 5meter with silver in cotton, twisted tight, inside another hose of cotton and lastly a hose of plastic.
Work accompanied by music
Perfect
Attachments
Per, what cart you had before the AT33EV? I am thinking of 33PTG/II to get as an alternative to 103R.
have used the 33ev for over 2 years and are very pleased with it,
I upgraded from AT-OC 9 and am not looking back
The 33 has a mutch fuller body and i prefeer the "wholeness" insted of exceptional performance in some marginal frequency
I believe the 33PTG is in the same street as mine,
Per
Alright because I want an affordable but informative modern cantilever and tip profile cart in full metal body as alternative to legacy musical but not skinny sounding.
Yes thats my experience too with most of electronics.
Will be fun to see how it all progresses
Have spun 2 x 5meter with silver in cotton, twisted tight, inside another hose of cotton and lastly a hose of plastic.
Work accompanied by music
Perfect
Hi misspell, do you run these as phono cables from TT to FSP? Where did you get this? I need 1 m pair too.
Please let me know.
Thank you.
Hi Salas,
I'm planing to built NJFET older version for MM cart. I'm going to use it with Rega Elys, very high output MM cart, about 6-7mv. I use it with 40db phono and I rarely make it pass 9 o'clock with my 84db speaker.
So I need low gain around 36-37db. However, you suggested that the schematic will work with k170 around 8-8.5 idss. Mine is around 9-10.5.
I came across one of your suggestion for 40db phono with 10ma Idss. I just wondering if this will work in my case with modification of changing R2 from 47R to 100R to get lower gain. This will be my first discrete phono project apart form op-amp project. 😀
Your suggested schematic and my k170 idss are listed below.
Thank
Chatchai
9.27
9.41
9.45
9.64
9.71
9.75
9.8
9.82
10.05
10.35
10.44
10.5
10.55
10.57
I'm planing to built NJFET older version for MM cart. I'm going to use it with Rega Elys, very high output MM cart, about 6-7mv. I use it with 40db phono and I rarely make it pass 9 o'clock with my 84db speaker.
So I need low gain around 36-37db. However, you suggested that the schematic will work with k170 around 8-8.5 idss. Mine is around 9-10.5.
I came across one of your suggestion for 40db phono with 10ma Idss. I just wondering if this will work in my case with modification of changing R2 from 47R to 100R to get lower gain. This will be my first discrete phono project apart form op-amp project. 😀
Your suggested schematic and my k170 idss are listed below.
Thank
Chatchai
9.27
9.41
9.45
9.64
9.71
9.75
9.8
9.82
10.05
10.35
10.44
10.5
10.55
10.57
Attachments
I will look for a specific suggestion later, based on your samples.
Thank Salas, 😀
Thank Salas, 😀
Attachments
Hi misspell, do you run these as phono cables from TT to FSP? Where did you get this? I need 1 m pair too.
Please let me know.
Thank you.
Yepp thats my plan,
At the moment am using traditionally shielded cables (Silk MK2) with Furutec rodium RCA.
If the long stretch plan involving about 4 meter silver from the TT to the Riaa is working am going for that,
I like the silver in cotton solution but there are those who criticize it for lacking bass and beeing to light.
Im normally using Bullet plug for the silver and am gonna solder the other end directly to the tone arm cable.
Regarding purchase of silver cable you might look at post 12017 but living in Boise Idaho (i guess you are a fan of Richard Pryor😉) the Scandinavian distributors are a bit far away for you.
I guess many other Hi-End shops might have silver cable it but be aware the prize increases proportional with the boutique factor.
Pure annealed silver is not worth nothing without proof of conformance.
You save most money by contacting a raw metal jewelery distributor (is this name existing) and you may get a big roll for a 100$ or so WITH the insurance that the silver is according to specs
You want 99.99% pure annealed silver about 0,5mm dia for signal cables.
But in your case not needing more than a set of 1meter cables you need 4 strands of 1 meter,
When twisting you loose about 20-30% so you need about 5-6 meters for making the set.
For that limited quantity i guess you can purchase from a Hi-fi shop selling at relative high price,
I guess you can get this from many shops in the US but you might wanna check out the Chinese shop HiFi DIY Site - VT4C/211 Power Triode
consider the WS040 wire Audio Catalog
and hose silk-315 Audio Catalog
Wrap with your favorite nylon mesh Audio Catalog
good luck
Per
Appreciated, Salas
I will keep you posted. I plan to run this phono with your shunt regulator in separate box, can I use starquard cable like typical speaker cable to hook them up or do I need two twisted pair cable?. I also joined fold phono GB and plan to built LOMC phono later.
Chatchai
I will keep you posted. I plan to run this phono with your shunt regulator in separate box, can I use starquard cable like typical speaker cable to hook them up or do I need two twisted pair cable?. I also joined fold phono GB and plan to built LOMC phono later.
Chatchai
alexkosha just increase the gain in the Cd player.
I need opposite, to decrease signal out from CD. So far, I just built one U type. Works fine.
In...>---36K----------> Out
................... l
....................l
..................205R
....................l
....................l
Gnd.>---36k---------->
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It works fine, but you are going to loose some sound quality.
Better up phono gain, as said before.
Better up phono gain, as said before.
It works fine, but you are going to loose some sound quality.
Better up phono gain, as said before.
Guys, it is just for a burn-in process. and sound quality is not that important. I use CD player continues play to send signal to Phono for let say 100 hours to burn-in it. I created Hagerman "burn-in frybaby" 1 track and run it over and over.
Ok then, it was not so clear what you wanted!
Just measure the output in order to get 1 mV or so.
Just measure the output in order to get 1 mV or so.
You should configure as in picture 2 first schematic on its left (series). Then you should connect it to the mains and measure AC between 5 & 8. Be very careful with exposed mains connections.
Thanks for helping with this Salas. I measured the secondaries at around 47V.
Based on some similar sized transformers on the web, I think these probably are only 6VA each--so I need to hunt down some larger parts for your circuit.
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If you will add a bridge, a filter cap and a 470R 5W dummy load resistor across the cap you will be able to evaluate the DC they are capable of at about 100mA load since they should drop significantly, maybe good enough for initial tests still. The Antek AS-1232 gave 45VDC loaded to a fellow USA tester as reported recently here. Has two 32VAC secondaries for quasi double mono, its 100VA at $21.60 with both static and magnetic shields also.
Guys, it is just for a burn-in process. and sound quality is not that important. I use CD player continues play to send signal to Phono for let say 100 hours to burn-in it. I created Hagerman "burn-in frybaby" 1 track and run it over and over.
Works sweet
i use an old autanator
try with a 10k pot if you have one lying around
Have tested the values when i break in mine 0.3mV cart
10Kohm between earth and line in
4 Kohm betwen line out and earth
13 Kohm between line in and line out
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