The JLH ripple eater and my version of the MrEvil capacitance multiplier are different animals and use the pass devices differently.
The PNP (TIP147) device should be in the positive rail and the NPN (TIP142) in the negative with emitters receiving the raw DC input and the collectors being the outputs. Based on what you previously described you seem to have the pass devices located improperly for correct operation.
To avoid confusion please don't go mixing schematics and for those who read after you, understand that the above posted schematic IS IN NO WAY related to the simplified multiplier I posted here.
The PNP (TIP147) device should be in the positive rail and the NPN (TIP142) in the negative with emitters receiving the raw DC input and the collectors being the outputs. Based on what you previously described you seem to have the pass devices located improperly for correct operation.
To avoid confusion please don't go mixing schematics and for those who read after you, understand that the above posted schematic IS IN NO WAY related to the simplified multiplier I posted here.
Understood.
I do have them installed properly on your board. I think i was helped by you through pm to get it operating properly, which is a joy to listen to, btw. Favorable over the original evil cap multiplier.
Its why im trying to see if the even more simplified jlh version would be an improvement.
Could i perhaps get a simple explanation of their differences?
Im only here to learn, not to make a mess
I do have them installed properly on your board. I think i was helped by you through pm to get it operating properly, which is a joy to listen to, btw. Favorable over the original evil cap multiplier.
Its why im trying to see if the even more simplified jlh version would be an improvement.
Could i perhaps get a simple explanation of their differences?
Im only here to learn, not to make a mess
How much quiescent current does an F5 draw? Losses in the PSU are not large. I tested mine at 5A (DC) draw and a 2V loss over the pass devices and had no issues. The pass devices need heat sinking with that kind of abuse since they are dissipating about 10W at that level.
I know a few ACA builders have used a single rail of this design and I think some JLH builds too.
I know a few ACA builders have used a single rail of this design and I think some JLH builds too.
when you adjust one pot, it changes the offset voltage. That change in offset voltage also changes the Vds of the other half of the output stage.
When you adjust the second pot, you are bringing the offset back down to near zero. That will change the Vds of both halves of the output stage. this will change the currents passing.
Look at the Id vs Vgs curves in the datasheet. They show that Vds does affect Id
When you adjust the second pot, you are bringing the offset back down to near zero. That will change the Vds of both halves of the output stage. this will change the currents passing.
Look at the Id vs Vgs curves in the datasheet. They show that Vds does affect Id
I'm talking about the Cap multiplier.
I've one toroid of 2 x 24 Vac each winding has a rectifier.Took the negative pole of one rectifier and the positive pole of the other rectifier and connect them together and connected at the ground pin of the CapMul.I didn't use the onboard rectifier is this okay to do?
I adjusted each rail separately by powering only one rail at the time
I've one toroid of 2 x 24 Vac each winding has a rectifier.Took the negative pole of one rectifier and the positive pole of the other rectifier and connect them together and connected at the ground pin of the CapMul.I didn't use the onboard rectifier is this okay to do?
I adjusted each rail separately by powering only one rail at the time
Hi Rudi,
I'm assembling the C-Mx boards now and am struggling with the small soldering pads (or vias) underneath and had some trouble sourcing the tiny 2.2uF caps without special order
Next time, can you either put the donuts (larger size please) on the underneath and add some options for the 2u caps - I ended up using a 1uF wima and a 1uf SMD Epcos across the bottom pins - typical diy 'make-do' but it'd be easier with a bit more room - maybe reduce the space for the 10mF cap...
I cut the tracks and used complementary components to obtain the -ve voltage version - perhaps you could do a double package (+/- rails) next time?
I have great hopes when it's completed
I'm assembling the C-Mx boards now and am struggling with the small soldering pads (or vias) underneath and had some trouble sourcing the tiny 2.2uF caps without special order
Next time, can you either put the donuts (larger size please) on the underneath and add some options for the 2u caps - I ended up using a 1uF wima and a 1uf SMD Epcos across the bottom pins - typical diy 'make-do' but it'd be easier with a bit more room - maybe reduce the space for the 10mF cap...
I cut the tracks and used complementary components to obtain the -ve voltage version - perhaps you could do a double package (+/- rails) next time?
I have great hopes when it's completed
Yeah Jason, it's Rudi's very compact boards - they work okay, no problems but a pain to assemble and hopefully, no upgrades or repairs needed
I had no problem with your layout, and played around with some different components - in fact, I took the Dremel cutter and made +/- separate ground tracks down the centre with, as you expected, no difference at all! Even used a ridiculously oversized 6800uF SuperThru cap on the o/p
I'll see if I can compare the 2 versions but don't expect much difference
I'm assembling the K-Multiplier also and again, having trouble with the small donuts/vias and it'll be interesting how this one compares too ...
Perhaps we can rekindle enthusiasm in these very useful circuits again
I had no problem with your layout, and played around with some different components - in fact, I took the Dremel cutter and made +/- separate ground tracks down the centre with, as you expected, no difference at all! Even used a ridiculously oversized 6800uF SuperThru cap on the o/p
I'll see if I can compare the 2 versions but don't expect much difference
I'm assembling the K-Multiplier also and again, having trouble with the small donuts/vias and it'll be interesting how this one compares too ...
Perhaps we can rekindle enthusiasm in these very useful circuits again
Perhaps I could be a bit more specific, 'mean' but I see a photo of what looks like a completed amp/heatsink assembly under your 'logo' so ...
If you take the central '0' volt point on each module's power supply, you would run an 'earth' wire from this to the main chassis 'earth' tab for each module if it has a 'built-in' supply like that shown in the photo
If you're using a 'traditional' separate type power supply where the 1 supply feeds both channels, then a single wire from the supply to the chassis 'earth' point
Adding a little bit of complication, it's sometimes useful to add a series resistor(s) in this wire(s) or a thing known as a thermistor - 10 ohms is about usual for this, for example a common CL-60
As Andrew mentioned, the usual 'earth' connections apply as per the European Electrical standards
I hope this is of assistance
If you take the central '0' volt point on each module's power supply, you would run an 'earth' wire from this to the main chassis 'earth' tab for each module if it has a 'built-in' supply like that shown in the photo
If you're using a 'traditional' separate type power supply where the 1 supply feeds both channels, then a single wire from the supply to the chassis 'earth' point
Adding a little bit of complication, it's sometimes useful to add a series resistor(s) in this wire(s) or a thing known as a thermistor - 10 ohms is about usual for this, for example a common CL-60
As Andrew mentioned, the usual 'earth' connections apply as per the European Electrical standards
I hope this is of assistance
It is sufficient to connect the MAG to Chassis.
One does not need to take a wire across the chassis to the main's PE Safety Earth. That is usually bolted on near the mains cable entry hole/socket.