Yes, Friday evening I should have 1st sound. Some weather stripping gasket material will have to be applied on the rebate for the waveguide to make sure it’s air tight. Mount and connect the crossovers. Install the drivers. Install some fiberglass stuffing in the main rear chamber. I am also excited about the ability to swap baffles and listen to this speaker with a RAAL 70-20xr. Truly high end tweeter and woofer on a TL. I wonder what the crossover is going to end up as for the RAAL version.
X,
Do make sure the glue has dried properly before you subject the cabs to the force of the Purifi drivers. 😉
Do make sure the glue has dried properly before you subject the cabs to the force of the Purifi drivers. 😉
Zman01,
Maybe the Purifi woofer will actually help the glue dry faster moving all of that air through the transmission line! Hahaha!!
Maybe the Purifi woofer will actually help the glue dry faster moving all of that air through the transmission line! Hahaha!!
Yah, I thought of that too. Titebond wood glue probably should be allowed to cure 24hrs before subjecting to pressure. But hardens after 6hrs. Probably ok to play at low SPL.
TL’s Delivered
I just got the TL’s and they look great! Not too heavy nor bulky. Very easy to pick up and move about. Almost small enough to be a “bookshelf” speaker.
I just got the TL’s and they look great! Not too heavy nor bulky. Very easy to pick up and move about. Almost small enough to be a “bookshelf” speaker.
Attachments
The new TL’s are assembled and currently playing music in the kitchen for some casual listening. The crossover boards ended up on the bottom side of the divider vent wall just as I imagined. The rest of the assembly went smoothly and I used a closed cell foam weather stripping gasket material to make the front baffle air tight.
The speaker has a very wide 3D holographic soundstage with a huge sweet spot. I like how natural it sounds and percussion is on the mark. The relatively flat phase of the Harsch XO combined with the waveguide in stereo is something new for me - never heard imaging quite like this from a “bookshelf” speaker.
The bass is quite powerful and digs relatively deep (better than the passive radiators) and it really moves air as evidenced by how much it makes a small strip of paper placed over vent opening will buzz and flap when the music has bass.
I will listen for a week or so before giving a full assessment and measurements. So far it’s showing very good potential. It can play very loud and still sound clean. I think the TL really opened up the midbass and lowered the overall distortion of the speaker according to my ears.
The speaker has a very wide 3D holographic soundstage with a huge sweet spot. I like how natural it sounds and percussion is on the mark. The relatively flat phase of the Harsch XO combined with the waveguide in stereo is something new for me - never heard imaging quite like this from a “bookshelf” speaker.
The bass is quite powerful and digs relatively deep (better than the passive radiators) and it really moves air as evidenced by how much it makes a small strip of paper placed over vent opening will buzz and flap when the music has bass.
I will listen for a week or so before giving a full assessment and measurements. So far it’s showing very good potential. It can play very loud and still sound clean. I think the TL really opened up the midbass and lowered the overall distortion of the speaker according to my ears.
Attachments
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When your done tweaking , may I interest you in changing those resistor XRK ?
For woofer go with Powertrons grainless very even sounding & transparent. Think Mundorf are marketing them under their new Ultra range. Tweeter Mundorf Supreme wire wound, it's got sweet highs but not sure if it will sound too bright on your set up.
Cheers
For woofer go with Powertrons grainless very even sounding & transparent. Think Mundorf are marketing them under their new Ultra range. Tweeter Mundorf Supreme wire wound, it's got sweet highs but not sure if it will sound too bright on your set up.
Cheers
If they were mine, after a long burn-in and knowing their sound perfectly, I would bypass the tweeter capacitor with a Miflex KPCU-01 0.02uF 600Vdc.
Tweeter resistors, Mills. Those of the woofer, others cheaper but in no case the cheap ones of cement.
The flatness of the audio system phase in the audible frequency band is perhaps more important than I already thought.
Miflex bypass is a yes or yes.
PS: speaker wires (out and in), with star quad geometry: Canare 4S11.
Tweeter resistors, Mills. Those of the woofer, others cheaper but in no case the cheap ones of cement.
The flatness of the audio system phase in the audible frequency band is perhaps more important than I already thought.
Miflex bypass is a yes or yes.
PS: speaker wires (out and in), with star quad geometry: Canare 4S11.
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Proof of the pudding is in the listening Maty. To many, caps will improve or affect changes in sound but resistors itself play a major role too. Besides this is not a cheapo speaker build, why not get the best out of it. Isn't this in spirit of diy in the first place ?
Cheers
Cheers