Re-Think what you actually have in mind and what you want.!
What heat sink are you talking about..
In POST 131 I can see a Cardboard Amplifier run on a 9 Volts Battery named N2. I would not show such things here, that's more likely for Kindergarten or first Grade, especially after 5 years of Developing which has lead to nothing but Trolling. So why don't you stop to post that none sense.
Are you hot to see your name here with 11'000People reading this?
Have you ever thought that they might laugh at you, this is the friendly expression for looking at you being St*pid or Trolling making a JOKE out of these who are willing to lend you a hand.
This ain't worth it, because it seems, if someone after 5 years still try to get a SIMPLE CLASS A AMPLIFIER running, and still is at the same Point where he started his other Thread so I would call it, no progress has been made whatsoever.!
Think about that..
This thing on your cardboard amplifier, with what you try to COOL down the Transistor is called a WASHER and not HEAT SINK. Remember that.
In Asia electronics Parts are easy to come by, I have lived in Asia for almost 30years beginning 1974 to 2002 and I never had a problem to find any kind of Electronic Component, never mind what it might be. So don't assume that each and everyone is deaf and blind or stupid here on that Site.
I think, if you look at the progress you have made the last 5 years you should consider listen to the people and not answering the Question of the guys here with another none sense question which has been answered many times already.
Then you also should use the search option here, and find things by your self.
I know these are quite hard words here but this is the truth what actually shows off from your writing. I hope you can handle the truth..
Also just to name it, I looked at several of your threads, also at the ones what you call your systems.. I would not use System for these devices.
There is a big difference for a HIGH END SYSTEM or using a Cheap 50years old Receiver, which actually should win a price for Overaged Electronics devices. These Devices might were number 1 1960, but industry has grown much (what one not could think of your progress) so go with the time.
In this thread you are comparing running a Class A Amplifier with the price of a Hamburger or Hot Dog. Why, what for..
This site is a high end Audio size, if you think the price you have to pay for a good audio device is to high for you, then I would advice you the find a cheep Charlie site. There you might get everything for free.
Either you like to invest and own some good devices, which you must pay a price for, or you don't.. but then DO NOT COMPLAINE, because nobody forces you at GUNPOINT to be here, you are here with your free will but do not drag down this site by your cheep Charlie way of doing things. If building and running a Class A AMP is too expensive for you then you need to STOP BUILDING IT. STOP USING IT, or find a way to get that Class A Amp as you think it's appropriate. If you understand how a Class A AMP works, then you will see that this is what it's all about.. CLASS A AMP is the kind of amplifier with LOWEST Efficiency.
So if you want high efficiency amp then DO NOT USE CLASS A.. and it will not run on 4.5 Volt Battery, no longer than 2 minutes because after that you can throw away the Battery, because it has already been worn out. But this has been told, written, said many times on these board. You still want to build one, but complaining about the price you have to pay..
The times of FREEBIES are long over my friend, and these times will not come back..
Get yourself hand held Media device some headphones and be happy because it seems this is what you try to get...
@Moderators. If I was too hard on him then just delete what seems not to be proper.. But I think there are many here who think the same way.
BTW I do not Judge you I just show you how your way on being on this site comes across to at least me.
Written by Chris Hess
November 14th 2021
Bern Switzerland.
I wrote that I'm out here. But I read such a lot of CRAP from you that I have to intervene.!
What heat sink are you talking about..
In POST 131 I can see a Cardboard Amplifier run on a 9 Volts Battery named N2. I would not show such things here, that's more likely for Kindergarten or first Grade, especially after 5 years of Developing which has lead to nothing but Trolling. So why don't you stop to post that none sense.
Are you hot to see your name here with 11'000People reading this?
Have you ever thought that they might laugh at you, this is the friendly expression for looking at you being St*pid or Trolling making a JOKE out of these who are willing to lend you a hand.
This ain't worth it, because it seems, if someone after 5 years still try to get a SIMPLE CLASS A AMPLIFIER running, and still is at the same Point where he started his other Thread so I would call it, no progress has been made whatsoever.!
Think about that..
This thing on your cardboard amplifier, with what you try to COOL down the Transistor is called a WASHER and not HEAT SINK. Remember that.
In Asia electronics Parts are easy to come by, I have lived in Asia for almost 30years beginning 1974 to 2002 and I never had a problem to find any kind of Electronic Component, never mind what it might be. So don't assume that each and everyone is deaf and blind or stupid here on that Site.
I think, if you look at the progress you have made the last 5 years you should consider listen to the people and not answering the Question of the guys here with another none sense question which has been answered many times already.
Then you also should use the search option here, and find things by your self.
I know these are quite hard words here but this is the truth what actually shows off from your writing. I hope you can handle the truth..
Also just to name it, I looked at several of your threads, also at the ones what you call your systems.. I would not use System for these devices.
There is a big difference for a HIGH END SYSTEM or using a Cheap 50years old Receiver, which actually should win a price for Overaged Electronics devices. These Devices might were number 1 1960, but industry has grown much (what one not could think of your progress) so go with the time.
In this thread you are comparing running a Class A Amplifier with the price of a Hamburger or Hot Dog. Why, what for..
This site is a high end Audio size, if you think the price you have to pay for a good audio device is to high for you, then I would advice you the find a cheep Charlie site. There you might get everything for free.
Either you like to invest and own some good devices, which you must pay a price for, or you don't.. but then DO NOT COMPLAINE, because nobody forces you at GUNPOINT to be here, you are here with your free will but do not drag down this site by your cheep Charlie way of doing things. If building and running a Class A AMP is too expensive for you then you need to STOP BUILDING IT. STOP USING IT, or find a way to get that Class A Amp as you think it's appropriate. If you understand how a Class A AMP works, then you will see that this is what it's all about.. CLASS A AMP is the kind of amplifier with LOWEST Efficiency.
So if you want high efficiency amp then DO NOT USE CLASS A.. and it will not run on 4.5 Volt Battery, no longer than 2 minutes because after that you can throw away the Battery, because it has already been worn out. But this has been told, written, said many times on these board. You still want to build one, but complaining about the price you have to pay..
The times of FREEBIES are long over my friend, and these times will not come back..
Get yourself hand held Media device some headphones and be happy because it seems this is what you try to get...
@Moderators. If I was too hard on him then just delete what seems not to be proper.. But I think there are many here who think the same way.
BTW I do not Judge you I just show you how your way on being on this site comes across to at least me.
Written by Chris Hess
November 14th 2021
Bern Switzerland.
Last edited:
This will be useful for anyone building a common emitter amplifier:
Common Emitter Amplifier - Detailed Walkthrough - Simply Put - YouTube
Common Emitter Amplifier - Detailed Walkthrough - Simply Put - YouTube
Not the correct forum
Update
First of all, an update. The amplifier shown in the last circuit works, and puts out 85 dB at 1 metre, peak music output. The amplifier was run for several hours yesterday, playing music. It is running off an AC/DC adapter set at 6V. The sound from it is quite clear and distortion free except at the highest volume. I am very happy with its performance.
Thanks to everyone who helped. It is very much appreciated and my success was due to you.
This Forum
The purpose of posting to this forum is for other viewers to learn something from my efforts: no doubt there are viewers with my level of capability trying the same things. The YouTube videos for example. I have see several kits designed for beginning electronics and they are very limited. A plan based on my circuit, with no soldering involved will allow for someone beginning electronics or young people who do not have a lot of money. I want to build an amplifier and also a template for simple solder-less building of one.
I am not trying to save money, I am simply trying to experiment at a very low cost.
This Forum
This is not the correct forum for the information I post, and, although the moderators have no problem with it, I will not be posting or be very limited in public posting to this forum. I will be communicating directly with other members who will have the opportunity to reply my messages if they want to.
Update
First of all, an update. The amplifier shown in the last circuit works, and puts out 85 dB at 1 metre, peak music output. The amplifier was run for several hours yesterday, playing music. It is running off an AC/DC adapter set at 6V. The sound from it is quite clear and distortion free except at the highest volume. I am very happy with its performance.
Thanks to everyone who helped. It is very much appreciated and my success was due to you.
This Forum
The purpose of posting to this forum is for other viewers to learn something from my efforts: no doubt there are viewers with my level of capability trying the same things. The YouTube videos for example. I have see several kits designed for beginning electronics and they are very limited. A plan based on my circuit, with no soldering involved will allow for someone beginning electronics or young people who do not have a lot of money. I want to build an amplifier and also a template for simple solder-less building of one.
I am not trying to save money, I am simply trying to experiment at a very low cost.
This Forum
This is not the correct forum for the information I post, and, although the moderators have no problem with it, I will not be posting or be very limited in public posting to this forum. I will be communicating directly with other members who will have the opportunity to reply my messages if they want to.
#258 2N3055 inside - commercial famous amplifier models, quasi complementary power output
SE with transformer output.
SE with transformer output.
Last edited:
That’s a *preamp* (at least the last circuit that was being discussed there is). I guess with the right transformer you could drive a speaker - very quietly. The basic circuit could be adapted to be a power amp to put out between a handful and maybe 10 watts. Output stage bias current would need to be run up, but a 3055 emitter follower would work ok up to maybe 2 amps bias. With a bigger heat sink of course.
Transistors
Someone mentioned SCION Electronics. These are the transistors available.
Darlington transistors (attached image)
MOSFETS
IRFP064N Transistor
රු150.00
IRF3205 Transistor (Original)
රු125.00
QM3002N3 (Original)
රු50.00
FDN340P Transistor (Original)
රු25.00
Add to cart
QM3016P Transistor
රු140.00
180N04 Transistor (Original)
රු230.00
IRFP460N Transistor (Original)
රු180.00
RFP50N06 Transistor
රු56.00
IRF840 Transistor
රු60.00
IR2110 (Original)
රු150.00
J380 Transistor
රු65.00
FDN340V Transistor (Original)
රු22.00
IRF9530N Transistor (Original)
රු55.00
IRF9540N Transistor
රු70.00
P30NF10 Transistor
රු70.00
IRF540N Transistor
රු45.00
IRFZ44N Transistor (Original)
රු45.00
IRFP250N Transistor
රු160.00
IRF520N Transistor
රු50.00
IRF530N Transistor
රු45.00
BUZ71A Transistor
රු85.00
FDS9945 Transistor
රු63.00
Someone mentioned SCION Electronics. These are the transistors available.
Darlington transistors (attached image)
MOSFETS
IRFP064N Transistor
රු150.00
IRF3205 Transistor (Original)
රු125.00
QM3002N3 (Original)
රු50.00
FDN340P Transistor (Original)
රු25.00
Add to cart
QM3016P Transistor
රු140.00
180N04 Transistor (Original)
රු230.00
IRFP460N Transistor (Original)
රු180.00
RFP50N06 Transistor
රු56.00
IRF840 Transistor
රු60.00
IR2110 (Original)
රු150.00
J380 Transistor
රු65.00
FDN340V Transistor (Original)
රු22.00
IRF9530N Transistor (Original)
රු55.00
IRF9540N Transistor
රු70.00
P30NF10 Transistor
රු70.00
IRF540N Transistor
රු45.00
IRFZ44N Transistor (Original)
රු45.00
IRFP250N Transistor
රු160.00
IRF520N Transistor
රු50.00
IRF530N Transistor
රු45.00
BUZ71A Transistor
රු85.00
FDS9945 Transistor
රු63.00
Attachments
Changed bias resistor
I replaced the bias resistor of 10K Ohm with a potentiometer. I was able to increase the volume without distortion when I turn the potentiometer - there is a region where distortion is the lowest and volume is the highest, this at the highest input volume setting. I measured the potentiometer setting as 2K Ohm. The load resistor gets very hot, and only a 4 Ohm speaker.
I replaced the bias resistor of 10K Ohm with a potentiometer. I was able to increase the volume without distortion when I turn the potentiometer - there is a region where distortion is the lowest and volume is the highest, this at the highest input volume setting. I measured the potentiometer setting as 2K Ohm. The load resistor gets very hot, and only a 4 Ohm speaker.
Circuit Diagram (Working Circuit)
The circuit diagram of the actual working circuit simulated in the FALSTAD circuit simulator. Input resistors to combine stereo channels to mono is not shown. Power source is 4 x AA rechargeable batteries.
The circuit diagram of the actual working circuit simulated in the FALSTAD circuit simulator. Input resistors to combine stereo channels to mono is not shown. Power source is 4 x AA rechargeable batteries.
Attachments
I used to play with something like that as a kid. My father made me a variable power supply, which consisted of a car battery with brass screw taps he drove into the top, intercepting the cell interconnect lead to get 6, 8, 10 and 12V.
I remember the speaker's cone moving inward when powered on, because of the bias current. I also remember thinking it sounded better that way for some reason -