Hi, what's the recommended volume pot resistance or resistance range for this amplifier?
Hi!
Personally, I do not use a potentiometer with this card.
I manage the volume by a usb dac, remotely controlled by a wireless keyboard or smart phone .... no need to get up from the sofa.
For the potentiometer 10k or 47k log should be suitable, in short like all conventional amps. 🙂
Hi!
Personally, I do not use a potentiometer with this card.
I manage the volume by a usb dac, remotely controlled by a wireless keyboard or smart phone .... no need to get up from the sofa.
For the potentiometer 10k or 47k log should be suitable, in short like all conventional amps. 🙂
Thanks, that helps a lot. Many of the log potentiometers on Amazon are 100k and 500k, which made me doubt my choices.
I also have a DAC controlling volume, so strictly speaking I don't need a volume pot either. I should try connecting the amp directly to the DAC and see. Do you run into any noise or popping issues with your setup?
Bought my Nichicon Gold 4700UF caps @ Audiophonics
I suggest to anyone to try the OPA1692 that works really fine for me.
I suggest to anyone to try the OPA1692 that works really fine for me.
Thanks, that helps a lot. Many of the log potentiometers on Amazon are 100k and 500k, which made me doubt my choices.
I also have a DAC controlling volume, so strictly speaking I don't need a volume pot either. I should try connecting the amp directly to the DAC and see. Do you run into any noise or popping issues with your setup?
No noise problem with the volume control by the dac ....
Dac SMSL 300 ak4497 .... Enjoy!!! 😉😉😉😉
Hi guys, you should take a look at this amps as well :
DUAL Merus MA12070 fully balanced Amplifier pictures inside
DUAL Merus MA12070 fully balanced Amplifier pictures inside
if you really need a potentiometer ....
ALPS RK 27 ...
Wonderful! Thank you for all your suggestions.
Hi guys, you should take a look at this amps as well :
DUAL Merus MA12070 fully balanced Amplifier pictures inside
😀 Dani ... You make us turn our heads ... with all your amps .....😀😛
I'm waiting for my akita by Dr Mordor ....
He's on the road.
Thanks! Vitaliy!!!
I also have a DAC controlling volume, so strictly speaking I don't need a volume pot either.
Just a tip: if anything goes not like it should be then your amplifier will amplify anything it sees at the input to the max....At least I have experienced this with other peoples stuff (which I was to check/repair) and digital volume control of the source or DAC. The famous "odd bit" that somehow sets output volume of the DAC to max for instance. Family members that put volume to the max with Spotify etc. Other issue can be that volume is OK but loud clicks are heard when changing tracks etc. Also switching off the DAC while the power amplifier is still powered on might give unwanted effects.
Nothing goes wrong with a "real" volume control in between as the volume likely will be at normal levels. It acts like a kind of protection.
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It is not false....
Under win 7 .... It happened to me to be surprised and wake up all my little family ...
Under win 10 ... I have not encountered this kind of problem ...
Before turning on the amplifier, check the windows sound bar.
Under win 7 .... It happened to me to be surprised and wake up all my little family ...
Under win 10 ... I have not encountered this kind of problem ...
Before turning on the amplifier, check the windows sound bar.
I didn't even think of Windows as I don't use pc for audio but anything that may go wrong softwarewise/remote control wise/app wise....notakosan mentioned a DAC connected directly to a power amplifier. I recall a few of such setups where it did not work out one day.
The hard/true/real volume control is not software controlled and simply can not develop strange habits. As I repair stuff gone wrong I would never connect any device except a buffer/preamp/source with true hardware volume control directly to an "open" power amplifier. If true hardware volume control is at let's say 9 o clock and the DAC or source goes apeshit then the volume will still be a 9 o clock and sound may be distorted but the speakers will survive. Not so in a setup with no volume control in between, that's for sure.
The hard/true/real volume control is not software controlled and simply can not develop strange habits. As I repair stuff gone wrong I would never connect any device except a buffer/preamp/source with true hardware volume control directly to an "open" power amplifier. If true hardware volume control is at let's say 9 o clock and the DAC or source goes apeshit then the volume will still be a 9 o clock and sound may be distorted but the speakers will survive. Not so in a setup with no volume control in between, that's for sure.
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By default, when installing a new dac under Windows .... the volume is at full ...
I don't want a knob ... I prefer remote control ....
But you are right ... caution!
A modern dac manages the volume very well ... no problem on 2 years. 😉😉😉
I don't want a knob ... I prefer remote control ....
But you are right ... caution!
A modern dac manages the volume very well ... no problem on 2 years. 😉😉😉
Yes I understand but you are the user where things always work out and I am the guy they call when stuff goes wrong 😀
Convenience if the enemy of safety (and quality 🙂 ). And eh... one can have both! Also software volume control is not the best for audio quality in general, certainly the case with cheap stuff.
Convenience if the enemy of safety (and quality 🙂 ). And eh... one can have both! Also software volume control is not the best for audio quality in general, certainly the case with cheap stuff.
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You are not going to tell me that you have a potentiometer on your flat screen TV ....
You get up from the sofa ... 🙄🙄
You get up from the sofa ... 🙄🙄
Ha ha you keep going on 🙂 Well my TV has no 1500 Euro speakers. And I do get up from the sofa for audio volume but motor controlled potentiometers or remote controlled stepped volume controllers by means of relays are not that hard to build. Heck, even remote controlled rotary switches exist. Quality stuff.. hard to beat with software control.
Anyway, the point I try to make is that anything hardware limiting maximum volume to a loud but not destroying level in case of things going wrong is a protection for valuable loudspeakers.
Anyway, the point I try to make is that anything hardware limiting maximum volume to a loud but not destroying level in case of things going wrong is a protection for valuable loudspeakers.
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