to KELION : yes good prices but I prefer to buy it with the cheaper NE then get the LM from a trustworthy supplier like Mouser as I am not convinced the ones from Chinese could be fakes.
Concerning the board itself instead of removing the existing capacitors I have raised the board and added two elecrolytics of 3300uf , two of 4,7uf and two ceramics of 0,1uf., with the two big ones lying flat against the board and held inmobile with a bit of silicone .Overall sound and bass improved a lot . Using the original NE as the other op amps have not yet arrived.
Of course this implies a larger ( higher ) casing which in my case is not a problem.
Concerning the board itself instead of removing the existing capacitors I have raised the board and added two elecrolytics of 3300uf , two of 4,7uf and two ceramics of 0,1uf., with the two big ones lying flat against the board and held inmobile with a bit of silicone .Overall sound and bass improved a lot . Using the original NE as the other op amps have not yet arrived.
Of course this implies a larger ( higher ) casing which in my case is not a problem.
thats the idea , by raising the board with the addons below it I have no constraints regarding size and lenght , and the cap-leads to the board give me the space where to add the small ones as close to the board as possible , for spacers I use 4 screws 3mm each with three nuts ..............
AND I would never ever buy op-amps from chineses , ebay ,amazon etc etc . The chinese are a crafty bunch and they know perfectly well that at least 99 percent of buyers have no way to test an opamp so you risk it not sounding how you expected but not able to check on it , when the real thing would sound as you wanted . So you buy op-amps there = shame on you.
Go to Mouser or any other OFFICIAL SELLER OF YOUR CHOICE
Go to Mouser or any other OFFICIAL SELLER OF YOUR CHOICE
I have ordered my board - standard. I will fit some super through caps as I have a pair spare.
I have 2 existing power supply choices. I have a pre-built large current one that I built years ago for a single-ended VFET amplifier. Its about 19VAC (which would give me about 26VDC rectified. Its about 5A).
The second one is from a Pass VFET project that I havent built yet. Another SE VFET design giving about 10watts output power. The PS is a Meanwell brick 36VDC/4.44A and 160W max.
Would either of these PS be OK to run this module on, on a longterm basis? I'd like to use one if possible as having the ability to change PS' between projects appeals to me (mainly in terms of cost, and also having fewer boxes of gear lying around)
I have 2 existing power supply choices. I have a pre-built large current one that I built years ago for a single-ended VFET amplifier. Its about 19VAC (which would give me about 26VDC rectified. Its about 5A).
The second one is from a Pass VFET project that I havent built yet. Another SE VFET design giving about 10watts output power. The PS is a Meanwell brick 36VDC/4.44A and 160W max.
Would either of these PS be OK to run this module on, on a longterm basis? I'd like to use one if possible as having the ability to change PS' between projects appeals to me (mainly in terms of cost, and also having fewer boxes of gear lying around)
@slimecity , and others.......
PSU depends on the required output power. First thing you need to know what output you want to achieve and what speakers you want to use it with.
Say you want 60 W with 4 ohm two channels so you need 16 volts , plus 2 volts loss aprox in wiring , mosfets etc so 18 volt rail at 120W plus 10 % so 135 W which at 16 volts means a max current of 135:18= 7,5 rounding up 8 amps both channels driven simultaneously . This is the value for sine wave output and the peak value for music .
You can get away with less because music is not a constant peak output but it is what I would aim for as it covers all possible situations with an output of 60 watts per channel and 4 ohm speakers.
other values all you have to do is look at the spec-sheet of the TPA , the graph of output power versus supply voltage see :
TPA3255 data sheet, product information and support | TI.com
where you can look for the voltage required for the power you want . Then multiply voltage times voltage and divide by ohms of speakers to get the current per channel so multiply that by the number of channels , generally 2. And to begin always add 2 volts for losses as mentioned before
PSU depends on the required output power. First thing you need to know what output you want to achieve and what speakers you want to use it with.
Say you want 60 W with 4 ohm two channels so you need 16 volts , plus 2 volts loss aprox in wiring , mosfets etc so 18 volt rail at 120W plus 10 % so 135 W which at 16 volts means a max current of 135:18= 7,5 rounding up 8 amps both channels driven simultaneously . This is the value for sine wave output and the peak value for music .
You can get away with less because music is not a constant peak output but it is what I would aim for as it covers all possible situations with an output of 60 watts per channel and 4 ohm speakers.
other values all you have to do is look at the spec-sheet of the TPA , the graph of output power versus supply voltage see :
TPA3255 data sheet, product information and support | TI.com
where you can look for the voltage required for the power you want . Then multiply voltage times voltage and divide by ohms of speakers to get the current per channel so multiply that by the number of channels , generally 2. And to begin always add 2 volts for losses as mentioned before
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Wow Shui Yuan just add more deluxe version with replaced 2 nichicon caps 2200uf FW and 4 small Wima caps
shui yuan Audio TPA3255 2.0 Digital Amplifier Board DC24 48v Strong High Power 300W + 300W Class D o Digital Amplifier Board|Amplifier| - AliExpress
shui yuan Audio TPA3255 2.0 Digital Amplifier Board DC24 48v Strong High Power 300W + 300W Class D o Digital Amplifier Board|Amplifier| - AliExpress
I believe I found possible evidence of cheating on the Shui Yuan boards which I just received.
They are equipped with two "Nichicon 2200uf at 63v"capacitors . Their size is 18mm diameter by 30mm height. so:
I have searched Google and any Nichicon capacitor I can find with 2200uf/63v/18mm diameter is 35mm in height so it appears that Nichicon does not make those with only 30mm no matter what series . The search included Nichicon´s own website for good measure ! I will ask Nichicon if they make or made any caps with the above measurements but only 300mm height.
So my assumption : if Nichicon does not make them then Shui Yuan cannot put them on anything they make .
Since the boards sound fine and the price is very low and if you want to use them above 35 volts my recommendation would be to change all electrolytic caps on them for peace of mind and use the ones you take out for other lesser purposes . I will change them anyways . It will set you back by about 10 euros per board for capacitors , plus whatever you decide to spend on op-amps which I will replace with LM4562 as well , see what happens............
They are equipped with two "Nichicon 2200uf at 63v"capacitors . Their size is 18mm diameter by 30mm height. so:
I have searched Google and any Nichicon capacitor I can find with 2200uf/63v/18mm diameter is 35mm in height so it appears that Nichicon does not make those with only 30mm no matter what series . The search included Nichicon´s own website for good measure ! I will ask Nichicon if they make or made any caps with the above measurements but only 300mm height.
So my assumption : if Nichicon does not make them then Shui Yuan cannot put them on anything they make .
Since the boards sound fine and the price is very low and if you want to use them above 35 volts my recommendation would be to change all electrolytic caps on them for peace of mind and use the ones you take out for other lesser purposes . I will change them anyways . It will set you back by about 10 euros per board for capacitors , plus whatever you decide to spend on op-amps which I will replace with LM4562 as well , see what happens............
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to nhatkhang : 
buy the basic version then get the op-amps and all (!) capacitors from Mouser or any other trustworthy seller . that way you know you got the real stuff and you get piece of mind.
With a difference per board of 11 euros buying in China you wont pay so much more at Mouser , Digikey , Farnell etc etc . But you will be sure to get "the good stuff".
buy the basic version then get the op-amps and all (!) capacitors from Mouser or any other trustworthy seller . that way you know you got the real stuff and you get piece of mind.
With a difference per board of 11 euros buying in China you wont pay so much more at Mouser , Digikey , Farnell etc etc . But you will be sure to get "the good stuff".
I have mine running on the bare minimum voltage of just over 26VDC. Its making more than enough output for my little Rega speakers that Im currently running.
Wow. It sounds epic. A tiny bit slurred at the top end. But I replaced the "Nichicons" with some nice (real) Nichicon Super Through caps that unfortunately needed a bit of tweaking to fit onto the PCB.
Im just running the standard op-amps and they sound very nice. I could upgrade to some OPAXXX's at a later stage, but quite liking the sound ATM. Very open and airy, while still being detailed. Its sounding very good with my new Topping E30 DAC.
Its the old cliche - I am actually hearing some stuff in recordings that I havent heard through any of my other (far more expensive - dammit!) amplifiers......Listening to London Grammar's "If You Wait" album and its very revealing.
Wow. It sounds epic. A tiny bit slurred at the top end. But I replaced the "Nichicons" with some nice (real) Nichicon Super Through caps that unfortunately needed a bit of tweaking to fit onto the PCB.
Im just running the standard op-amps and they sound very nice. I could upgrade to some OPAXXX's at a later stage, but quite liking the sound ATM. Very open and airy, while still being detailed. Its sounding very good with my new Topping E30 DAC.
Its the old cliche - I am actually hearing some stuff in recordings that I havent heard through any of my other (far more expensive - dammit!) amplifiers......Listening to London Grammar's "If You Wait" album and its very revealing.
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The opas mainly give give better results at high frequencies because they have a much higher bandwidth , open loop gain and slew-rates , and a lower noise-figure as well so obviously sound somewhat different because changing the opamps does change the frequency-response a bit . The same goes for the bass end because of different input currents of the chips.
But the same is true of the LME49720NA/NOPB and the LM4562NA/NOPB ,
both cost about 1,75euros at Mouser the chip inside is the same in both but the pins on the 4562 are identical to the NE5532 so swapping them could not be easier wheras most of the opas need an adapter from
to
.
Something a bit tricky unless you are real good at soldering. And the NE5532 is an older development and a lot cheaper
But the same is true of the LME49720NA/NOPB and the LM4562NA/NOPB ,
both cost about 1,75euros at Mouser the chip inside is the same in both but the pins on the 4562 are identical to the NE5532 so swapping them could not be easier wheras most of the opas need an adapter from
Something a bit tricky unless you are real good at soldering. And the NE5532 is an older development and a lot cheaper
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Hey team, I'm building one of these amps while I await Lester's sylph board and to prototype layout. I bought some new caps to replace the Nichicon 2200UF/63V ones but the through holes are too small for the replacement caps. Is this a multi layered pcb? I'm reluctant to drill the holes out in case I damage it.
I was referring to the sylph-d200 board, but you can follow Lester's other products on his vendors thread.
Amplifier Modules and PCBs For Sale
Amplifier Modules and PCBs For Sale
It really is epic! I'm quite pleasantly surprised, even though I've followed these threads for a while now. I note your mod to fit the caps and may resort to fitting mine upside down too. I planned to dremel small openings in the last heatsink fin to accommodate the bigger diameter but trying to work out if I can slightly enlarge the through hole without breaking any vias etc. Looks like two sets of holes close together in my board, and yours too?