Well, at $80/each, compared to $12/each, I would expect them to perform more than marginally better! Another fine example that you get what you pay for!
I have way too many hobbies to spend all that cash on arrays with $80 drivers! Plus, I'm sure my wife would kill me!
I'm hoping that the right amount of EQ will open up the sound of the cheaper drivers, just from the sheer number of them.
I have way too many hobbies to spend all that cash on arrays with $80 drivers! Plus, I'm sure my wife would kill me!
I'm hoping that the right amount of EQ will open up the sound of the cheaper drivers, just from the sheer number of them.
I tried to look for a "REW T/S param DIY for Dummies" explaining the steps clearly and with pictures, but I couldn't find anything.
And the "Help" file in REW is kinda cryptic for someone whose Electricity 101 course is pretty far and forgotten!
I tried to do the calibration first, but it said it couldn't use it and was discarded. I must be doing something wrong, I just don't know what!
XRK, there are many grades of "crystal clear" ...
Don't get me wrong, the TC9FD is great for the price. I never said the TC9FD sounds bad, just not nearly as good as the NE123W. Try some NE123W, then you can sense the TC9FD's "haze" yourself
NE123W goes lower (Fs=61Hz) than the TC9FD (Fs=125hz), mid-range?
If the NE123w specs had said it goes up to 16 or 18 kHz then it would be a good comparison but as the spec says 8khz I am not sure that would give you the clarity and detail of the highs. The haze sound could be just the naturally higher frequency response that reproduces sounds above 8khz. I am sure an $80 driver made by Vifa would sound very good - and perhaps better than a $12 driver made by Vifa. And you are right that I can't tell until I listen for my self and compare but a 8khz response would be missing a lot for me in terms of a fullrange. Yes, maybe an apples to oranges comparison.
The NE123w does reaches more than 8K, just not off axis...
I bet the Scan Speak 10F would compete quite well with the NE123w.
The one thing I don't understand is what the price of the TC9FD has to do with it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I bet the Scan Speak 10F would compete quite well with the NE123w.
The one thing I don't understand is what the price of the TC9FD has to do with it.
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being similar in size, they are all more or less directional.
anyway, I was just sharing my very limited experience with FR drivers, which happens to include the TC9. But what I believe is this: line array or not, the driver is still what determines how good the end result can EVER be (you can even out the frequency response using acoustic or electronics EQ but you can't never make up the detail retrieval). So it is worth investing the extra $ up front for better drivers, which happens to be quite a lot in the case of line arrays.
anyway, I was just sharing my very limited experience with FR drivers, which happens to include the TC9. But what I believe is this: line array or not, the driver is still what determines how good the end result can EVER be (you can even out the frequency response using acoustic or electronics EQ but you can't never make up the detail retrieval). So it is worth investing the extra $ up front for better drivers, which happens to be quite a lot in the case of line arrays.
$80 and $10 are US prices, the price differential might not be as much in your location. Have you checked the local price of various drivers? Are Tang Bands expensive there?
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The only "NE" model available here now is the NE95W-04, at about $40 each. Seems we get them at about the same price, even if it is directly from the factory!
Learning every day...
Mostly by failures, these days...
Forgot the motto: "Measure twice, cut once."
I tried: "measure once, cut twice."
I measured the first baffle, calculated and marked all my center-to-center points, then, I decided to clamp the 2 baffles together and drill my pilot holes in both baffles at the same time.
Hmmm, I guess my drill was not perfectly straight, as the bottom baffle got the center-to-center pilot holes all over the place. Well, not all of them, but some of them.. I realised that after the 4th hole, noticing that the space between the holes was not the same...
So, lesson learned, don't try to cut the work with shortcuts... it will usually take me double the time, and twice the money!
Also, the plywood I have here, they put a thin layer of veneer on top. When drilling the holes, the veneer sheared away a little in between the holes. I will have to work some more to create a smooth surface. I don't care about the veneer, as I was going for black baffles anyway.
Mostly by failures, these days...
Forgot the motto: "Measure twice, cut once."
I tried: "measure once, cut twice."
I measured the first baffle, calculated and marked all my center-to-center points, then, I decided to clamp the 2 baffles together and drill my pilot holes in both baffles at the same time.
Hmmm, I guess my drill was not perfectly straight, as the bottom baffle got the center-to-center pilot holes all over the place. Well, not all of them, but some of them.. I realised that after the 4th hole, noticing that the space between the holes was not the same...
So, lesson learned, don't try to cut the work with shortcuts... it will usually take me double the time, and twice the money!
Also, the plywood I have here, they put a thin layer of veneer on top. When drilling the holes, the veneer sheared away a little in between the holes. I will have to work some more to create a smooth surface. I don't care about the veneer, as I was going for black baffles anyway.
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looks like your using a hole saw type drill bit without a drill press that can be a wrist killer not to mention the problems with perpendicular alignment considering the number of holes wouldn't a template and router or roto tool not be better? as a half way compromise (because drill presses are expensive) mini press stands that allow you to mount a typical 3/8 or 1/2 hand drill like black & decker used to make might help. from the look of the pic it seems your heating the wood with the hole saw.
I first pre-drilled the center-center holes using a 1,5mm wood drill bit, then used a 3mm wood drill bit. This made the 5-6mm bit on my hole saw to track with adequate precision
Without atleast a smaller pre-drilled hole the larger hole saw bit will wander a little before it settle down/starts to dig in.
As far as the veneer goes use the hole saw from both sides as when you push through some material will always pry off. Good to see progress Perceval, keep it up!
Without atleast a smaller pre-drilled hole the larger hole saw bit will wander a little before it settle down/starts to dig in.
As far as the veneer goes use the hole saw from both sides as when you push through some material will always pry off. Good to see progress Perceval, keep it up!
This is the tool I have at the moment. It is hard on the wrist indeed.
I cut half way one side, then flip the board and finish cutting the other side.
It does burn the wood a bit. Not exactly easy, but I don't have a drill press, and I have no idea how to make such a small hole with a router and jig.
I cut half way one side, then flip the board and finish cutting the other side.
It does burn the wood a bit. Not exactly easy, but I don't have a drill press, and I have no idea how to make such a small hole with a router and jig.
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the router method requires a bit with a bearing the most common are round over but straight cutters of different lenghts and diameters are available (google that) the template can be made with 1/8 aluminum or hard plastic. i've made templates out of hardwood i the past i've made templates that the base of the router runs against but locating/aligning those is trickier
in thin panels.
i've used those as well and find that if your not careful in mounting the cutters on the stem bits perfectly centered the "wobble" can make your hole up to a 1/8 inch bigger than you planned.
and trying to remove the waste circle from the cutter is a PITA proportional to material thickness!
i've used those as well and find that if your not careful in mounting the cutters on the stem bits perfectly centered the "wobble" can make your hole up to a 1/8 inch bigger than you planned.
and trying to remove the waste circle from the cutter is a PITA proportional to material thickness!
Thanks for sharing!
I had to go to the "big" city today, and I found a straight bit with a bearing that fits my router.
I have some plexiglass laying around, so I can make a template and just clamp on my next baffle. That should be a lot easier, and look a lot better!
If you haven't already make yourself a simple router table, that way you make it easier to route those holes.
Do you see that bolt with the rings around it behind the router bit? It's there to guide your work piece to the router bit and ease in. Press the piece to the bolt first and then to the bit. I recommend to cut slightly undersized holes prior to routing and not rely on the bit to do all the cutting. I used a jigsaw for that, no need to be precise.
I used the template and a pencil with a washer around it's tip to mark the pre-cut. The washer rides against the template. The size of the washer determines how much undersized it is.
I tried using wood as a template for some cuts but always ended up covering the shape that the roller bearing slides against with aluminium sheet metal if I had to make several cuts with the same template.
Do you see that bolt with the rings around it behind the router bit? It's there to guide your work piece to the router bit and ease in. Press the piece to the bolt first and then to the bit. I recommend to cut slightly undersized holes prior to routing and not rely on the bit to do all the cutting. I used a jigsaw for that, no need to be precise.
I used the template and a pencil with a washer around it's tip to mark the pre-cut. The washer rides against the template. The size of the washer determines how much undersized it is.
I tried using wood as a template for some cuts but always ended up covering the shape that the roller bearing slides against with aluminium sheet metal if I had to make several cuts with the same template.
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