Hmmm... I had a go at it today. Made a template from a sheet of plexiglass and did a test cut to make sure it was ok. It went fine. So, I moved to the actual baffle, and on my very first hole, the router jumped a little and gauged my template... and the hole.
I stopped before starting a mess of things and will continue tomorrow... or later!
I see the advantages of a router table, but just for cutting a few (!) holes into a baffle?
And, I'm not sure I get the reason why there is a bolt next to the router bit.
I stopped before starting a mess of things and will continue tomorrow... or later!
I see the advantages of a router table, but just for cutting a few (!) holes into a baffle?
And, I'm not sure I get the reason why there is a bolt next to the router bit.
Making a table like that took me less than 15 minutes. It's just a piece of wood with a ~30mm hole and some attachment holes on most routers.
(I use a workmate like this to put it on)
This video demonstrates the use of the pin:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d_L7ZEx8sII
No router jumping and nicked templates as you hold it down flat on the table.
Those few holes turn out to be quite a lot of work when things keep going wrong. Just sharing the easy way out, look at how much routing I did (lol)
.
(actually in all honesty I nicked one of my templates as the router bit started working itself loose in my first cheap router. Never happened again with the
better tool).
(I use a workmate like this to put it on)
This video demonstrates the use of the pin:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d_L7ZEx8sII
No router jumping and nicked templates as you hold it down flat on the table.
Those few holes turn out to be quite a lot of work when things keep going wrong. Just sharing the easy way out, look at how much routing I did (lol)
.(actually in all honesty I nicked one of my templates as the router bit started working itself loose in my first cheap router. Never happened again with the
better tool).
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Looked at my router, it's a smaller one.
The base screws go directly into plastic, so I didn't try to mount it upside down on a table with screws in plastic. Didn't feel to confident.
But, what did help is the suggestion to cut as much material ahead of routing.
See, at first, I figured that since a router is a "super" tool with a bit spinning really fast it could eat through anything, one layer at a time if need be.
But, I followed your advice and used the jigsaw to cut away most material before engaging the router. That did it! It was so easy to follow the template and it went pretty well (some little mistakes here and there, but nothing major that sanding won't resolve).
So, I finished all 32 holes now. Not planning another set of towers anytime soon... That's a lot of holes!
I changed my design for the towers a bit and will come up with pictured soon.
The base screws go directly into plastic, so I didn't try to mount it upside down on a table with screws in plastic. Didn't feel to confident.
But, what did help is the suggestion to cut as much material ahead of routing.
See, at first, I figured that since a router is a "super" tool with a bit spinning really fast it could eat through anything, one layer at a time if need be.
But, I followed your advice and used the jigsaw to cut away most material before engaging the router. That did it! It was so easy to follow the template and it went pretty well (some little mistakes here and there, but nothing major that sanding won't resolve).
So, I finished all 32 holes now. Not planning another set of towers anytime soon... That's a lot of holes!
I changed my design for the towers a bit and will come up with pictured soon.
Alright, I have now received all 36 drivers. Two columns of 16 drivers each, plus a center channel with 4 drivers in a combination yet to be defined.
Plus, I may have found a good solution for EQ. I bought a Presonus 1818vsl a while back, to do some band recordings and live shows. Unfortunately, the software live part of that unit is flawed, and it hasn't been fixed by Presonus in over 2 years... (don't get me started on that one..)
Since I am not using it as advertised, I figured I might give it a shot as a digital-analog pre-amp. I'm using my Yamaha receiver for the amp part.
Worked pretty nicely! The sound really cleaned up. I guess the converters and pre-amps in the Presonus are much better.
With that combination, I can add EQ with graphical curve, compressor, limiter, reverb and delay, if needed. Plus, I can save "scenes" and recall them for different kinds of sound, for example, between a classical show or a full fledge action/sci-fi movie!
Also, I'm wondering if I should start a new build thread, since these are not line source anymore (baby towers, maybe?).
I am looking at the Presonus 1818VSL for this exact reason. Are you using the included software for crossover duties?
Yes, using Gate and or EQ, you can use different settings for each separate channels (from VLC for example).
BUT... and it's a big one. The VSL drivers from Presonus are flawed and there is ZERO support from the company.
It is hit or miss if you have an intel cpu. AMD seems to fare better. Also, using Mac's own Core Audio drivers works better, but you lose the VSL part.
It is mostly a miss if you have a 2013 or newer computer, especially the ones with USB3 only, as Presonus will NOT support any of those computers. Got a friend who tried, and they told him his computer specs are newer than when the 1818 was introduced and will not be supported... btw, the 1818 was introduced in 2012. That's a short lifespan.
If you get one, get it from a good seller that will allow you to return it should it not work with your computer. And save yourself some headaches. If after one week you still can't make it work, just return it.
I've heard good reviews and excellent support from Focusrite and their 18i18 interface. Maybe something to look into as well.
Mine is hooked to a late 2008 MacBookPro, and it is OKish... the unit will "crash" and stop outputting audio from time to time. Cycling the power off then on again brings it back to life. Annoying while watching a movie at home, downright a big no-no when performing music live.
Feel free to ask if you have more questions!
Baffles are coming along.
I mentioned I was going to change the design a bit.
I found some circular PVC pipes and decided I was going to use that. Only fools never change their minds, they say!
So, I glued up some "wings" on the baffles to be able to mount the cylinder behind. The wings will help to support the sides. I will also round the side edges later.
I mentioned I was going to change the design a bit.
I found some circular PVC pipes and decided I was going to use that. Only fools never change their minds, they say!
So, I glued up some "wings" on the baffles to be able to mount the cylinder behind. The wings will help to support the sides. I will also round the side edges later.
Attachments
Exactly what happened to my cheapo router aswell...
As it traveled say 10mm outward it no longer had firm support and when I reached a driver hole it dug in.
Yes, very simple.
These are not a build with the very good Vifas, so I didn't want to spend too much time but still get to do something new.
It will also tell me if the polymer-cement coating will do the good job I expect it to do... or not.
Net volume of a column is 0.9 cu.ft, or about 25 liters.
That's about 0.06 cu.ft (1.6 l) per driver. Not as big as I initially expected to go, but this is what it comes up to when using the tube I found.
These are not a build with the very good Vifas, so I didn't want to spend too much time but still get to do something new.
It will also tell me if the polymer-cement coating will do the good job I expect it to do... or not.
Net volume of a column is 0.9 cu.ft, or about 25 liters.
That's about 0.06 cu.ft (1.6 l) per driver. Not as big as I initially expected to go, but this is what it comes up to when using the tube I found.
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I downloaded and played with JRiver a bit. I believe JRiver will offer you a lot more options with crossover and EQ than the 1818VSL.
Since you need a computer hooked to the 1818VSL anyway, maybe get something else offering similar outputs to amps while using JRiver.
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