Shigaclone MKII Black - The builders Thread

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#1,441
tvicol said:
As I explained above, miniregs are not recommended for V1 and V2 because will exceed dissipated power by chip (SoA). Beaside this, as the chip will get hotter, his output current will drop. You need a regulator that have enough headroom.

Regards,
Tibi
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Hello Tibi,

the ICs in the delivered miniregs are 203B0V50, which is a 300mA regulator, but since the dissipation is the limit it makes no difference - but heatsink could help.

I assume when using LT 1086-5 also L2 and L3 has to be removed, +8V has to be provided and the recommended tantalum is between output and ground ?

For the LT1086 no heatsink is needed ?

Regards

Christoph
 
#1,447
Is the Shiga Black as sensitive to capacitor selection in the PSU as the original JVC clone?

BG PK were well liked and it looked like Elna Starget/oscon combination was a second choice as BG got rarer/expensive.

I see you supply 2200uf 25v Nichicon FW (pre reg) and 1000uf 16v Aishi (post reg)
 
#1,449
Yes, Siga MKII it is sensible to parts quality.
You may change post reg. cap with something in 1000-2200uF range at 10Vdc.
In this place Panasonic FC is OK, Rubycon ZL is good, Rubycon ZA is great, Sanyo OSCON is best.
Later add a 1nF silver-mica on C65 to make things even better.

Regards,
Tibi
 
#1,451
tvicol said:
Yes, Siga MKII it is sensible to parts quality.
You may change post reg. cap with something in 1000-2200uF range at 10Vdc.
In this place Panasonic FC is OK, Rubycon ZL is good, Rubycon ZA is great, Sanyo OSCON is best.
Later add a 1nF silver-mica on C65 to make things even better.

Regards,
Tibi
Click to expand...

Seems like those 1nF silver-micas are like fairy dust - sprinkle them around everywhere for a jolly good time!

i will get used to stock standard for a while until i start treating myself to "upgrades" - if I pull out the tricks from the start I will not have anything more to play with and will have to start looking for a new project!
 
#1,455
tomw said:
Silly question but how can I remove this ribbon cable between the display board to main board?
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I guess the socket has to be desoldered then IDC headers or header terminal pins be soldered on, then IDC line sockets installed with ribbon cable. A lot of work.

I am installing the black shiga boards into a chassis and so far have separated the LCD board from the Command board and added a ribbon cable to connect the 2 boards but the unit does not work now! Are there any other connections between these 2 boards besides the 6 wires? I may have removed one or two pads on desoldering the 6 jumper wires😕
 
#1,457
neskor said:
Can I use LT1084 instead of LT1086 and do I need to change value for R51 ans R50?
Also can I replace MSR860 with CREE schottky diode C3D02060F?
Click to expand...

You may use LT1084 instead of LT1086 and keep same resistors in place. However, LT1084 is a bit more noisy than LT1086 with Shiga MKII load. Any regulator noise is a function of load, as well.

Yes, CREE diodes are best in this place and you may use C3D02060.

Regards,
Tibi
 
#1,460
tomw said:
So that I could change to a longer cable or make it detachable, easier to work on the unit for future mods as the display would be attached to chassis top plate while the rest of the unit will be mounted on the bottom plate
Click to expand...

If is too short cut in the middle and add extension.

I use same cable length in Quantum CDT (which is a very big player) and is too long.

Regards,
Tibi
 
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