Shigaclone MKII Black - The builders Thread

CD player project

...working progress with my CD player project:

- SHIGA MKII High Grade
- Subbu DAC V3 SE
- Lampizator AMBER DAC with JJ ECC802 and 5U4

Many thanks Tiberiu V., Philippe M. for the kits, support and guidance on this!

I will come back with the enclose chassis.
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To get best SQ .

SQ differ from person to person and is not a measurable indicator.
You can say the lowest jitter in a determined bandwidth, but this is also related to your implementation - power supply, decoupling parts etc.

However, in an attempt to answer your question, Tentlabs XO with minireg bring more resolution, tight bass and superb harmonics. Crystek XO is also a good part.
Also decoupling the XO with a 1nF silver-mica directly at XO pins brings even more resolution.

If your budget is unlimited, than you can try Duelund silver for C8, Dexa Neutron for clock, Texas Components Z-foil for smd and spdif resistors.

Regards,
Tibi
 
Thank You, I already changed spdif Resistor,which was good,what do You mean using Z-foil for SMD,all of them or just some Points ?Duelund seems to be pretty expensive,don`t know if they are worth the Money.Which Series do You mean ?Those SMD that You soldered standing ,is that a different Sort or same as
Original ?What`s the benefit?
Regards DT
 
Texas Components provide Z-foil smd resistors as well.
Texas Components Corporation
Z-foil resistor are in line with Duelund performance.
There are few places where I would recommend them. These are R7-R12, R39, R40.
Passive parts can make a huge difference and quality is reflected in price. You can try the best designs and topologies, always your final performance will be in line with the parts you use.


About vertical mounting, this was already explained by me in this thread - I think - , but I do not find my post. Also some Texas Instruments measurements are available in an application note document.

In short, main idea is that in this way you minimise piezoelectric effect which is very visible in MLCC caps ex: X5R, X7R etc, reduce number or resonant poles, minimise parasitic capacitance with pcb.

Regards,
Tibi
 
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design question..

Hi,

I am going to build a Shigaclone for another member. I have designed a nice cabinet with a sliding door.

With this sliding door I want to activate/deactivate the "Door button". I want to order de right switch but I am a bit confused by the enormous number of different switches. on/on, on/off, on(on), on(off) etc... And the "problem" that if the door is shut the button stays pressed (this can undone by a different design)

I was thinking of this kind of switch...

I would like to know if this is a good idea and if yes which kind of switch I need...

R.
 

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You need a single pole double throw switch if you can get one. This can be configured as normally open or closed and will suit whatever door switching method you use. Your switch could be pressed with the door open or closed with this switch and you would wire the switch accordingly.
 
Hi all,

I have got the shiga up and running, on a very specially selected base.😀


The sound is still changing as time passes.
I can say it is very detailed and very good in placing instruments.
Sadly it doesn't beat my teac vrds 10 when it comes to bass reproduction, maybe it needs more time.

regards, John
 

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