You are very welcome, Madalin !
Can't wait to see and hear final setup.
Regards,
Tibi
SQ differ from person to person and is not a measurable indicator.
You can say the lowest jitter in a determined bandwidth, but this is also related to your implementation - power supply, decoupling parts etc.
However, in an attempt to answer your question, Tentlabs XO with minireg bring more resolution, tight bass and superb harmonics. Crystek XO is also a good part.
Also decoupling the XO with a 1nF silver-mica directly at XO pins brings even more resolution.
If your budget is unlimited, than you can try Duelund silver for C8, Dexa Neutron for clock, Texas Components Z-foil for smd and spdif resistors.
Regards,
Tibi
Thank You, I already changed spdif Resistor,which was good,what do You mean using Z-foil for SMD,all of them or just some Points ?Duelund seems to be pretty expensive,don`t know if they are worth the Money.Which Series do You mean ?Those SMD that You soldered standing ,is that a different Sort or same as
Original ?What`s the benefit?
Regards DT
Original ?What`s the benefit?
Regards DT
Texas Components provide Z-foil smd resistors as well.
Texas Components Corporation
Z-foil resistor are in line with Duelund performance.
There are few places where I would recommend them. These are R7-R12, R39, R40.
Passive parts can make a huge difference and quality is reflected in price. You can try the best designs and topologies, always your final performance will be in line with the parts you use.
About vertical mounting, this was already explained by me in this thread - I think - , but I do not find my post. Also some Texas Instruments measurements are available in an application note document.
In short, main idea is that in this way you minimise piezoelectric effect which is very visible in MLCC caps ex: X5R, X7R etc, reduce number or resonant poles, minimise parasitic capacitance with pcb.
Regards,
Tibi
Texas Components Corporation
Z-foil resistor are in line with Duelund performance.
There are few places where I would recommend them. These are R7-R12, R39, R40.
Passive parts can make a huge difference and quality is reflected in price. You can try the best designs and topologies, always your final performance will be in line with the parts you use.
About vertical mounting, this was already explained by me in this thread - I think - , but I do not find my post. Also some Texas Instruments measurements are available in an application note document.
In short, main idea is that in this way you minimise piezoelectric effect which is very visible in MLCC caps ex: X5R, X7R etc, reduce number or resonant poles, minimise parasitic capacitance with pcb.
Regards,
Tibi
Last edited by a moderator:
Ok, got it, the post is http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...mkii-black-builders-thread-5.html#post3929172
Also a very
message from me, addressed to few "well documented experts" in MLCC capacitors http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...kii-black-builders-thread-33.html#post3958125
The document from TI is attached as well. Worth a read.
Regards,
Tibi
Also a very
message from me, addressed to few "well documented experts" in MLCC capacitors http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...kii-black-builders-thread-33.html#post3958125The document from TI is attached as well. Worth a read.
Regards,
Tibi
Last edited by a moderator:
design question..
Hi,
I am going to build a Shigaclone for another member. I have designed a nice cabinet with a sliding door.
With this sliding door I want to activate/deactivate the "Door button". I want to order de right switch but I am a bit confused by the enormous number of different switches. on/on, on/off, on(on), on(off) etc... And the "problem" that if the door is shut the button stays pressed (this can undone by a different design)
I was thinking of this kind of switch...
I would like to know if this is a good idea and if yes which kind of switch I need...
R.
Hi,
I am going to build a Shigaclone for another member. I have designed a nice cabinet with a sliding door.
With this sliding door I want to activate/deactivate the "Door button". I want to order de right switch but I am a bit confused by the enormous number of different switches. on/on, on/off, on(on), on(off) etc... And the "problem" that if the door is shut the button stays pressed (this can undone by a different design)
I was thinking of this kind of switch...
I would like to know if this is a good idea and if yes which kind of switch I need...
R.
Attachments
Will not work if is stays pressed.
You can test this on the Cloontje unit.
Regards,
Tibi
Here's the first picture:
Looking to see final result.
Regards,
Tibi
You need to position the switch so that as you slide the door shut, a round Protrusion slides over the switch, momentarily pressing it down, and releasing it as it passes by. It has to be able to do this both ways. I have seen switch's with rollers on the end. That might help.
Hi all,
I have got the shiga up and running, on a very specially selected base.
The sound is still changing as time passes.
I can say it is very detailed and very good in placing instruments.
Sadly it doesn't beat my teac vrds 10 when it comes to bass reproduction, maybe it needs more time.
regards, John
I have got the shiga up and running, on a very specially selected base.
The sound is still changing as time passes.
I can say it is very detailed and very good in placing instruments.
Sadly it doesn't beat my teac vrds 10 when it comes to bass reproduction, maybe it needs more time.
regards, John
