Display is workinh too
Hi Tibi, Aleks and the others,
This weekend i am able to work on the Shiga again.
Tibi, i followed your reccommendation of soldering the cable between the main board and the display directly. There was a short cut in the red connector, as i have tried to put 20wire ribbon cable in a 18 pin red connector. Secondly i found a very little shortcut between 2 legs of the LC76801. Was a braid hair of the desoldering braid. Result: display and all buttons are working.
Next step is to listen to many CD's.
Followed by implementing the Tentlabs Oscillator and doing the C's on the laser.
Thanks again for the help,
Paul
Hi Tibi, Aleks and the others,
This weekend i am able to work on the Shiga again.
Tibi, i followed your reccommendation of soldering the cable between the main board and the display directly. There was a short cut in the red connector, as i have tried to put 20wire ribbon cable in a 18 pin red connector. Secondly i found a very little shortcut between 2 legs of the LC76801. Was a braid hair of the desoldering braid. Result: display and all buttons are working.
Next step is to listen to many CD's.
Followed by implementing the Tentlabs Oscillator and doing the C's on the laser.
Thanks again for the help,
Paul
Have a look in the construction thread. This was already discussed.
Is at page 20
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...kii-black-builders-thread-20.html#post3947516
Regards,
Tibi
Last edited by a moderator:
Alfred,
I had a similar problem and i'll list the causes of my mistracking and poor playback as follow
1. Failure to remove all traces of solder flux from circuit board.
2. I accidently melted one of the gear wheels on the transport when modifying the laser head. I rectfied this using a needle file.
3 The led laser head assembly has a small pcb to one side, this can twist and results in misalignment of the laser lens relative to the disc and led.
4 I unknowingly dropped a small piece of component lead out that I had trimmed off into the lens assembly. This stopped it moving altogether. Was fine once removed.
5 There is a metal insert on the top face of the CD spindle, this can sometimes come unclipped and results in a cd that will oscillate up and down laterally.
6 I had a lot of issues with the 6 way connector and found the ultimate solution was to permanently solder the connections both ends. This also minimises the risk of shorts which are often not visible as the connector ends usually have heat shrink over them.
7. Poor Door/TOC switch connection.
8 Also the PCB that has the control push buttons mounted on it can short to ground via the mounting screws and washers/nuts. There is insufficient clearance between the PCB tracks and any mounting hardware. My solution was to use plastic washers under the nuts and my player stopped doing weird things after that.
Hope you get some joy soon
Aleks
I had a similar problem and i'll list the causes of my mistracking and poor playback as follow
1. Failure to remove all traces of solder flux from circuit board.
2. I accidently melted one of the gear wheels on the transport when modifying the laser head. I rectfied this using a needle file.
3 The led laser head assembly has a small pcb to one side, this can twist and results in misalignment of the laser lens relative to the disc and led.
4 I unknowingly dropped a small piece of component lead out that I had trimmed off into the lens assembly. This stopped it moving altogether. Was fine once removed.
5 There is a metal insert on the top face of the CD spindle, this can sometimes come unclipped and results in a cd that will oscillate up and down laterally.
6 I had a lot of issues with the 6 way connector and found the ultimate solution was to permanently solder the connections both ends. This also minimises the risk of shorts which are often not visible as the connector ends usually have heat shrink over them.
7. Poor Door/TOC switch connection.
8 Also the PCB that has the control push buttons mounted on it can short to ground via the mounting screws and washers/nuts. There is insufficient clearance between the PCB tracks and any mounting hardware. My solution was to use plastic washers under the nuts and my player stopped doing weird things after that.
Hope you get some joy soon
Aleks
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Hi Aleks.
Thank you for calm me down. My bad. In fact I just came back after a week from overseas. Nothing much I had done except from mounting the minireg and all the gears placed on a glass.
My mechanism was not screwed on but mount with 4 spikes. Last night readjust all 4 spikes as level as possible and that is when it sings further to track 10 (which my favorite song is track 11.) and suddenly no tracking and screen shows 00. No movement neither from remote control nor control board.
I had not mod on the mechanism. Previous default was due to the cable from main pcb (3 leds) was not intake to the control board. I suspect that should be the culprit but if it is, there shouldn't be any movement at all when switch on like before.
Will try all possibility. Everything is just on the glass and wouldn't go that far from it.
Best regards,
Alfred.
Thank you for calm me down. My bad. In fact I just came back after a week from overseas. Nothing much I had done except from mounting the minireg and all the gears placed on a glass.
My mechanism was not screwed on but mount with 4 spikes. Last night readjust all 4 spikes as level as possible and that is when it sings further to track 10 (which my favorite song is track 11.) and suddenly no tracking and screen shows 00. No movement neither from remote control nor control board.
I had not mod on the mechanism. Previous default was due to the cable from main pcb (3 leds) was not intake to the control board. I suspect that should be the culprit but if it is, there shouldn't be any movement at all when switch on like before.
Will try all possibility. Everything is just on the glass and wouldn't go that far from it.
Best regards,
Alfred.
Hi Tibi,
There is a bit of wobble. I was also suspecting that I had drop some ' 0 friction ' oil into the motor. I hope I didn't destroy it this way.
Thanks!
Alfred.
Hi Tibi,
A few quick questions:
1.The mini regs for V3, 4: do we have to eliminate any of the standard regs in the board when installing them?
2. Is the LM6541 supposed to have a heatsink on it?
3. On the parts list you say that C59 and R47 should only be used with the Tent clock. On my board they are installed and I am using the regular crystal: should I remove them?
4. On the original Shiga I had a reset trigger connected to the door/ground pair. Since I do not use a door, I had to reset the counter for each CD manually. On your board, the door section has three pins instead of two (door/ground/5V). How should I connect the reset trigger here?
Thank you!
A few quick questions:
1.The mini regs for V3, 4: do we have to eliminate any of the standard regs in the board when installing them?
2. Is the LM6541 supposed to have a heatsink on it?
3. On the parts list you say that C59 and R47 should only be used with the Tent clock. On my board they are installed and I am using the regular crystal: should I remove them?
4. On the original Shiga I had a reset trigger connected to the door/ground pair. Since I do not use a door, I had to reset the counter for each CD manually. On your board, the door section has three pins instead of two (door/ground/5V). How should I connect the reset trigger here?
Thank you!
Hi Spartan,
1. No, all you have is to remove L5 and L9 and add two wires from 8V to each minireg.
Please refer to this post http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...mkii-black-builders-thread-7.html#post3932325
Also I suggest you to read this thread.
2. No, LA6541 do not need a heatsink.
3. Don't remove them, these are out of any circuit unless you mount the Tentlabs clock. In case you mount Tentlabs, than you need to remove regular crystal and two 8pF caps - C57 and C58.
4. CD TOC reset is made using a very simple circuit. Now instead a normal closed switch you can use a push button, this is marked CD door on control board, or you can use any other normal open switch.
The cable who connect this push button to main board is between J3 (main board) and J9 (control&display board).
Regards,
Tibi
1. No, all you have is to remove L5 and L9 and add two wires from 8V to each minireg.
Please refer to this post http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...mkii-black-builders-thread-7.html#post3932325
Also I suggest you to read this thread.
2. No, LA6541 do not need a heatsink.
3. Don't remove them, these are out of any circuit unless you mount the Tentlabs clock. In case you mount Tentlabs, than you need to remove regular crystal and two 8pF caps - C57 and C58.
4. CD TOC reset is made using a very simple circuit. Now instead a normal closed switch you can use a push button, this is marked CD door on control board, or you can use any other normal open switch.
The cable who connect this push button to main board is between J3 (main board) and J9 (control&display board).
Regards,
Tibi