Id tag.
Look earlier in this thread and you will find a picture of a power supply which shows the pinouts and model number ADP-2009, which is the model number of the power supply indicated on the tag.
You may actually have a QA-1700 as well... There's several QAs that end in '00'.
Hope this helps
- Dave
Look earlier in this thread and you will find a picture of a power supply which shows the pinouts and model number ADP-2009, which is the model number of the power supply indicated on the tag.
You may actually have a QA-1700 as well... There's several QAs that end in '00'.
Hope this helps
- Dave
Attachments
Thank you very much dnarby. That should help a lot. The side inputs are quite a contrast with the pics that I posted and the back sticker helps as well.
I did see the pics in the previous posts that had the manual excerpts and a pic of the label on the power brick. If it's alright with you, I'd like to use these pics to show the seller what the actual panel inputs and such should look like. I'll remove the serial number from the pic of the sticker too (in case that's of any importance).
Edit: I'd venture that this panel is not a 1700. Checking partsolver, It looks like all the panels between 1500-1800 use the adp-2004 adapter. All the ones 1200 and below seem to use adp-0042. It looks like the one I have in my possesion is a QA-xx00 (judging the spacing between the zeros and the QA) and Negative said it didn't look like his 1200 so, it is either a 1100 or 1000.
Edit again: Actually on closer inspection I gues maybe there is only room for QA-x00 not xx00 (I could be wrong), but I don't know of any model that's 3 digits and ands with 00; at least none I can find on parts solver.
I did see the pics in the previous posts that had the manual excerpts and a pic of the label on the power brick. If it's alright with you, I'd like to use these pics to show the seller what the actual panel inputs and such should look like. I'll remove the serial number from the pic of the sticker too (in case that's of any importance).
Edit: I'd venture that this panel is not a 1700. Checking partsolver, It looks like all the panels between 1500-1800 use the adp-2004 adapter. All the ones 1200 and below seem to use adp-0042. It looks like the one I have in my possesion is a QA-xx00 (judging the spacing between the zeros and the QA) and Negative said it didn't look like his 1200 so, it is either a 1100 or 1000.
Edit again: Actually on closer inspection I gues maybe there is only room for QA-x00 not xx00 (I could be wrong), but I don't know of any model that's 3 digits and ands with 00; at least none I can find on parts solver.
Power supply question
Hey guys,
I think I've located a power supply that should work with this panel - dual output 5v@2.8A & 12V@1.8A... But I need to make a plug to fit the panel with the correct polarities.
Anthony (or anyone who's got one) could you stick some multimeter probes into the business end of your 2500 power supply so I can be rock-solid sure which side is positive? Because If I don't get it right, it's bye-bye panel... Zzt!
Thanks,
Dave
Hey guys,
I think I've located a power supply that should work with this panel - dual output 5v@2.8A & 12V@1.8A... But I need to make a plug to fit the panel with the correct polarities.
Anthony (or anyone who's got one) could you stick some multimeter probes into the business end of your 2500 power supply so I can be rock-solid sure which side is positive? Because If I don't get it right, it's bye-bye panel... Zzt!
Thanks,
Dave
Re: Power supply question
I found this pic of the adapter from earlier in this thread, it seems to show the pin polarities. Is this what you need or did you want some actual multimeter test to verify?
Edit: I noticed that the power adapter shows 2.5A on the 5V rail, while the power supply you mentioned is 2.8A. Could the .3A over the spec potentially cause a problem?
dnarby said:
I found this pic of the adapter from earlier in this thread, it seems to show the pin polarities. Is this what you need or did you want some actual multimeter test to verify?
Edit: I noticed that the power adapter shows 2.5A on the 5V rail, while the power supply you mentioned is 2.8A. Could the .3A over the spec potentially cause a problem?
Attachments
JLIN, i dont know if i'm right but... i think you have the 1100 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3401042254&category=25321
Negative Design said:
I believe you would be correct, unless the 1000 looks exactly the same. Still waiting on a response from the seller as he disappeared again. Hopefully paypal will refund my money if the seller does not do the right thing. Paypal hasn't asked for any of my proof or any further input from me yet, but they did notify the seller of my complaint. I would hope that I have enough evidence to show that I did indeed get ripped off.
I don't really care that I paid $500 for a QA-2500. What gets me is that I didn't get a 2500 for what I paid.
(OT: what do you guys think of using this thing for a projection lcd? Too small or workable? response time too slow for playing console games and watching movies? I figure you could strip it like you would a lcd monitor and use the same way. At least it definitely fits on an OHP and is XGA res too.)
i had that SAME lcd, i was gonna use it for projection but i changed my mind and i returned it to PE last week i hope i can get a refund.
Power supply cheap(QA-2500)!!???
To the guy that got a 1200 for 500 bucks, find seller, make concrete shoes, and throw him into the river, people like this will get thier due!!!
I think that I found a power supply for the 2500 at a local electronics store used, so if you need one check in the yellow pages for Midwest Electronics, Minneapolis, MN, I am not positive, but there is a part# on it, and it is similar to part #s for those 150 replacement parts I have seen, and the pinout looked exactly like pinout I have seen for the Sharp QA2500
I know this guy at the store would sell for 20-30 US, so call him up!!
To the guy that got a 1200 for 500 bucks, find seller, make concrete shoes, and throw him into the river, people like this will get thier due!!!
I think that I found a power supply for the 2500 at a local electronics store used, so if you need one check in the yellow pages for Midwest Electronics, Minneapolis, MN, I am not positive, but there is a part# on it, and it is similar to part #s for those 150 replacement parts I have seen, and the pinout looked exactly like pinout I have seen for the Sharp QA2500
I know this guy at the store would sell for 20-30 US, so call him up!!
Re: Re: Power supply question
I doubt that 0.3A over will screw things up. In fact, I think that even having an amperage that's WAY over (like 10000x or more) won't cause problems. This is because you can run something that normally takes 12V from AA batteries and run it off a car battery no problem. It'll just run a LOT longer off the car battery. Going way over *voltage* would cook it for sure though... (a bit over, probably not - way over, definately yes). To be sure I have to check w/my electronics sensei though.
The other thing that would for sure cook it is getting the polarities reversed... SO...!
The question I have about that power supply pinout is:
When the plug is FACING you, is the +5V on the top right and the +12V on the bottom right? I'm 99% sure this is the case, but I don't want to take a $300.00 chance on 1%...
Tnks,
Dave
jlin said:
I doubt that 0.3A over will screw things up. In fact, I think that even having an amperage that's WAY over (like 10000x or more) won't cause problems. This is because you can run something that normally takes 12V from AA batteries and run it off a car battery no problem. It'll just run a LOT longer off the car battery. Going way over *voltage* would cook it for sure though... (a bit over, probably not - way over, definately yes). To be sure I have to check w/my electronics sensei though.
The other thing that would for sure cook it is getting the polarities reversed... SO...!
The question I have about that power supply pinout is:
When the plug is FACING you, is the +5V on the top right and the +12V on the bottom right? I'm 99% sure this is the case, but I don't want to take a $300.00 chance on 1%...
Tnks,
Dave
Re: Re: Re: Power supply question
I think you are very very right!
I also think that in some applications, dc volts are also more than needed.
I checked a transformer from an old HP printer, it said 18Volts dc and i read on the multimeter 25Volts dc
but i also think that for real sensitive mat, the volts should match as close as possible! the amps , as long as it is higher, does not matter.
J-P
dnarby said:
I think you are very very right!
I also think that in some applications, dc volts are also more than needed.
I checked a transformer from an old HP printer, it said 18Volts dc and i read on the multimeter 25Volts dc
but i also think that for real sensitive mat, the volts should match as close as possible! the amps , as long as it is higher, does not matter.
J-P
I know this has been asked befor but I want your input.
The Sharp 2500, If I can find one, is it still the best panel to get?
And does it have problem's with radeon AIW video card's or all radeon's? Or With the latest Cat. Driver's ?
WHAT DO YOU THINK OF THIS PANEL ?
The Sharp 2500, If I can find one, is it still the best panel to get?
And does it have problem's with radeon AIW video card's or all radeon's? Or With the latest Cat. Driver's ?
WHAT DO YOU THINK OF THIS PANEL ?
QA-2500 + VB50HRTV = 🙂
At last! If you're looking to use the Sharp QA-2500 with standard DVD player and a line doubler... I believe I've finally deduced there's only one line doubler worth considering.
Of the line doublers that do 1024x768, there are only 3 that I've found around the $100 mark. (The next step up in these devices are prohibitively more expensive for this project, IMO.)
The TV-4000 aka "XGA Theater" is completely incompatible with the QA-2500. You will not get a picture at all. (Works great with my other panels, though - very nice picture.)
Next.
The ViewSonic NextVision 5 works with the QA-2500, but only allows a 60Hz refresh rate at 1024x768. The image quality is kind of crunchy and grainy looking, especially in high contrast areas, which defeats the purpose of having an expensive high resolution panel.
Next.
The ViewSonic VB50HRTV provides identical results on the QA-2500 for the same 60Hz setting *BUT* allows you to select 75Hz for the refresh at 1024x768. This *totally* clears up the crunchiness and makes a much cleaner, crisper image on the QA-2500.
On my QA-2500, with both ViewSonic line doublers, I get a wavy interference-like pattern across the whole image. After the panel heats up for a couple of minutes, this effect seems to almost go away. Anyone else have this problem with this panel?
Anyhow - I'm so excited to have finally found what appears to be the only suitable line doubler for this panel. It's likely that the other 2 line doublers are perfectly good devices - but the QA-2500 is just finicky and doesn't like them. They will be for sale on Ebay shortly!
I posted this because, after scouring this forum, I never found an answer to my QA-2500/line doubler problem. I'm amazed that everyone who uses this panel seems to go with a HTPC solution. I figured someone else might (eventually) benefit from my trial and error experiences.
Aside: Don't even think about using S-Video straight in with this panel. It will work, but it will look like *utter* crap! (Or be this tiny little image inside a large screen.) I don't know why anyone would pay $250+ for this panel and then settle for those results.
Pick yourself up a ViewSonic VB50HRTV. I got mine at ecost.com for $94.94 including shipping.
-Schmanthony
At last! If you're looking to use the Sharp QA-2500 with standard DVD player and a line doubler... I believe I've finally deduced there's only one line doubler worth considering.
Of the line doublers that do 1024x768, there are only 3 that I've found around the $100 mark. (The next step up in these devices are prohibitively more expensive for this project, IMO.)
The TV-4000 aka "XGA Theater" is completely incompatible with the QA-2500. You will not get a picture at all. (Works great with my other panels, though - very nice picture.)
Next.
The ViewSonic NextVision 5 works with the QA-2500, but only allows a 60Hz refresh rate at 1024x768. The image quality is kind of crunchy and grainy looking, especially in high contrast areas, which defeats the purpose of having an expensive high resolution panel.
Next.
The ViewSonic VB50HRTV provides identical results on the QA-2500 for the same 60Hz setting *BUT* allows you to select 75Hz for the refresh at 1024x768. This *totally* clears up the crunchiness and makes a much cleaner, crisper image on the QA-2500.
On my QA-2500, with both ViewSonic line doublers, I get a wavy interference-like pattern across the whole image. After the panel heats up for a couple of minutes, this effect seems to almost go away. Anyone else have this problem with this panel?
Anyhow - I'm so excited to have finally found what appears to be the only suitable line doubler for this panel. It's likely that the other 2 line doublers are perfectly good devices - but the QA-2500 is just finicky and doesn't like them. They will be for sale on Ebay shortly!
I posted this because, after scouring this forum, I never found an answer to my QA-2500/line doubler problem. I'm amazed that everyone who uses this panel seems to go with a HTPC solution. I figured someone else might (eventually) benefit from my trial and error experiences.
Aside: Don't even think about using S-Video straight in with this panel. It will work, but it will look like *utter* crap! (Or be this tiny little image inside a large screen.) I don't know why anyone would pay $250+ for this panel and then settle for those results.
Pick yourself up a ViewSonic VB50HRTV. I got mine at ecost.com for $94.94 including shipping.
-Schmanthony
Homeade PS for 2500
Hey guys,
Don't know if anyone needs a power supply, but I just made one from an old PC supply. It put out 5V and 12V, so I wired up a homeade plug, jumpered it in, and presto! I got the start up screen, and an image from the S-video input.
Kind of a scary way to find out that the plug diagram on the power supply and the pinout diagram from the manual is indeed set up to show you the voltages as you are looking at the business end of the plug. So the voltages are, left to right, top to bottom,
.
.(ground)................+5V
.
.
......(ground)....+12V
.
fun fun fun. Now I need a VGA cable, unless someone wants to buy this one off me, it's eventually going on Ebay (I need the money more than I need a big screen right now).
Dave
Hey guys,
Don't know if anyone needs a power supply, but I just made one from an old PC supply. It put out 5V and 12V, so I wired up a homeade plug, jumpered it in, and presto! I got the start up screen, and an image from the S-video input.
Kind of a scary way to find out that the plug diagram on the power supply and the pinout diagram from the manual is indeed set up to show you the voltages as you are looking at the business end of the plug. So the voltages are, left to right, top to bottom,
.
.(ground)................+5V
.
.
......(ground)....+12V
.
fun fun fun. Now I need a VGA cable, unless someone wants to buy this one off me, it's eventually going on Ebay (I need the money more than I need a big screen right now).
Dave
QA2500B Manual
Hey all,
I've really enjoyed everyone's feedback on the 2500. Since so many are without the manual, I decided to contribute to the cause and scanned mine in.
It's an Adobe Acrobat file and will probably be somewhere around a Meg in size by the time I'm done.
Its the entire thing... enjoy.
Just shoot me an email at: pdxguru@<removethis>verizonmail.com and I'll send it to ya.
Regards,
D. Sherman
Hey all,
I've really enjoyed everyone's feedback on the 2500. Since so many are without the manual, I decided to contribute to the cause and scanned mine in.
It's an Adobe Acrobat file and will probably be somewhere around a Meg in size by the time I'm done.
Its the entire thing... enjoy.
Just shoot me an email at: pdxguru@<removethis>verizonmail.com and I'll send it to ya.
Regards,
D. Sherman
Jlin,
I'm sure this has already been resolved (how did it end up?) but the pictures of your panel look nothing like my QA2500 and exactly like my QA1100, so thats probably what you got, an 1100. Also the label on the bottom matches completely.
I'm sure this has already been resolved (how did it end up?) but the pictures of your panel look nothing like my QA2500 and exactly like my QA1100, so thats probably what you got, an 1100. Also the label on the bottom matches completely.
anyone have diagonal lines when using a PC on the 2500? I just got mine up and running and i'm trying to narrow down what the problem might be. The go up from the left side. I've tried playing around with the phase with some improvement but its not perfect
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