You got a lot of variations with that paper cone. I got the Seas TV-21-EW's in stock, that use the same type of cone and surrounds, and an alnico magnet. But those are smaller cones.
The Seas A25 with a ferriet magnet that you post looks different than the one i saw when i restored a Dynaco A25 speaker for someone i have to say. The one i had in my hand had a magnet to size of the back for the frame, while yours is smaller. The sticker said Dynaco A25-XL (but everybody knows it's a rebranded Seas TV-25 variation). The Tweeter was a rebranded (as Dynaco A25 tweeter) Seas H087 domes, exact the same as i have in my Goodman Mezzo SL's.
I wish i made pictures then...
Over a million A35/A25XL/A35 et al were sold, made by at least 2 different manufacturers, so i would not be surprised to find that there were more than 2 woofers used. The ones i pulled feel into the 2 types i posted, but those would have all been those shipped to Canada.
The pics are from drivers i pulled form the cabinets (6 A25 cabinet smade a nice packing table). I do have a set of A25XL drivers downstairs i could take a picture of.
dave
The pics are from drivers i pulled form the cabinets (6 A25 cabinet smade a nice packing table). I do have a set of A25XL drivers downstairs i could take a picture of.
dave
I looked back in my documentation, and found back that it was called the Seas 25F-EWX. I only got a datasheet from it that i found (see attachment)
Attachments
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having owned a recapped pair of dynaco a25 and the A26, the A26 is miles better then the originalAnd the Devore driver looks like they are using the ferritte magnet of the old Seas A25XL, the second version used in the Dynaco A25 (first was with a Seas A25 H336 with the Alnico magnet).
The modern A26 has a much better magnet i have to say. It's lower distortion and more powerfull than the big old A25 ferritte magnet.
not even worth comparing
rt2h (sorry, I can't let things go, now I'll shut up)............
Ascendo SYSTEM ZF3 S.E.
https://highfidelity.pl/@main-169&lang=en
"Their main features are: linear phase 18 dB design plus constant-voltage-kernel; impedance adjustable for damping factor of power amp; and tri-wiring and tri-amping possibilities. Such solution offers great time and phase response (similar to these achieved with 6 dB/oct filters), with significant dumping (more than 24 dB/oct.) withing frequency range."
I always wondered but just found this.
I would be severely interested in a 2-way using the rt2h-a using a simple 6db cap on the tweet (ideally a 6db on woof, good luck finding flat response, flat Z-curve, and sensitivity, but I am not against a tmm to get up to tweet's 95db sensitivity). Maybe a pair (wired for 2ohm) of the seas p17-4ohm reissues, https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.c...canspeak-classic-p17wj02-04-6.5-woofer-4-ohm/, not much room for baffle step though...............
Ascendo SYSTEM ZF3 S.E.
https://highfidelity.pl/@main-169&lang=en
"Their main features are: linear phase 18 dB design plus constant-voltage-kernel; impedance adjustable for damping factor of power amp; and tri-wiring and tri-amping possibilities. Such solution offers great time and phase response (similar to these achieved with 6 dB/oct filters), with significant dumping (more than 24 dB/oct.) withing frequency range."
I always wondered but just found this.
I would be severely interested in a 2-way using the rt2h-a using a simple 6db cap on the tweet (ideally a 6db on woof, good luck finding flat response, flat Z-curve, and sensitivity, but I am not against a tmm to get up to tweet's 95db sensitivity). Maybe a pair (wired for 2ohm) of the seas p17-4ohm reissues, https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.c...canspeak-classic-p17wj02-04-6.5-woofer-4-ohm/, not much room for baffle step though...............
its a lovely tweeter. try it!rt2h (sorry, I can't let things go, now I'll shut up)............
Ascendo SYSTEM ZF3 S.E.
https://highfidelity.pl/@main-169&lang=en
"Their main features are: linear phase 18 dB design plus constant-voltage-kernel; impedance adjustable for damping factor of power amp; and tri-wiring and tri-amping possibilities. Such solution offers great time and phase response (similar to these achieved with 6 dB/oct filters), with significant dumping (more than 24 dB/oct.) withing frequency range."
I always wondered but just found this.
I would be severely interested in a 2-way using the rt2h-a using a simple 6db cap on the tweet (ideally a 6db on woof, good luck finding flat response, flat Z-curve, and sensitivity, but I am not against a tmm to get up to tweet's 95db sensitivity). Maybe a pair (wired for 2ohm) of the seas p17-4ohm reissues, https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.c...canspeak-classic-p17wj02-04-6.5-woofer-4-ohm/, not much room for baffle step though...............
if MMT, id go double 8" at least. dual 6" cant do bass imo
how loud do you normally listen? ive come to realize that when you have a true full range speaker (true means real bass), i never go over 90 DB SPL. at 90 db, the tweeter is cruising around with a 1st order xo.
if MMT, id go double 8" at least. dual 6" cant do bass imo
My MTM with Alpair 12pw would disagree with you.
dave
My CHN110 in an MLTL does agree either, it gives actually more bass than the 10" sealed subwoofer i have in an other system...if MMT, id go double 8" at least. dual 6" cant do bass imo
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i find the 10" bass driver in the seas A26 to give about 50% the resolution i get from my 15" woofer.My CHN110 in an MLTL does agree either, it gives actually more bass than the 10" sealed subwoofer i have in an other system...
Having owned a couple of 12" based speaker, even 12" imo doesnt really do bass either.
I remember clearly when i was blown away by my Amphion one 18 bass! Bass performance and quantity is truly relative.
once i experienced a good 15" in a suitable cabinet, it was game over for me. anything else sounds like a toy.
10, 12, 15, what is the quality?
The SEAS is a modestly priced woofer, & few that size reach as high as they do, or roll off so nicely.
How does your 15” do midrange?
As to resolution/DDR there are some mods to help with that (the SEAS would not get used before being puzzlekoated at a minimum.
dave
The SEAS is a modestly priced woofer, & few that size reach as high as they do, or roll off so nicely.
How does your 15” do midrange?
As to resolution/DDR there are some mods to help with that (the SEAS would not get used before being puzzlekoated at a minimum.
dave
You may be, but you are ignoring the whole reason for this design theme.
Your discussion belongs elsewhere.
dave
Your discussion belongs elsewhere.
dave
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http://www.dibirama.altervista.org/...-makako-2-vie-bass-relfex-8-ohm-300-wmax.html
Another project to the theme of the title, uses a CAT376 so another example XO. Can someonevet it?
dave
Another project to the theme of the title, uses a CAT376 so another example XO. Can someonevet it?
dave
Ive been curious about that one also. None of the crossovers in the pdf include baffle step correction right?
Can't tell you on volume, but I do crank it occasionally (40 watts into 95db 12" 2-way).
And I have my revel 6" 2-way.
Maybe using a resistor and changing the cap value, I could knock the rt2h-a down to match the b102 I have, even have an enclosure in a storage unit not too far away.......................
Just knocking around ideas.
Tomorrow or next week may be something different.
And I have my revel 6" 2-way.
Maybe using a resistor and changing the cap value, I could knock the rt2h-a down to match the b102 I have, even have an enclosure in a storage unit not too far away.......................
Just knocking around ideas.
Tomorrow or next week may be something different.
You would want a much larger port than that! I'm going to go with a 4"port in a 110 liter enclosure for a port tuning of 21.5hz...this should place the woofers minimum motion right where it needs it....if my modeling in correct I should get sub 20hz extension! A huge cabinet is the only way I could get a smooth roll off at the bottom end with the A26...Sealed could give a slightly lean low frequency response (room depending). 42ltr sealed, with a QTC of 0.85 will give about the most balanced response for a sealed enclosure. You could go smaller, but you lose depth and gain a hump in the lows (That extra punch in the lows can sound fun though). A port tuned to 20hz (1.59" Diameter x 6" long port) in 56ltr would suite my room fine, and with room gain I'd achieve good bass all the way down to 25hz. The other advantage of a low tuned port, is the fact that It can also go louder. With a port tuned to 20hz, the driver is hardly moving when producing deep bass.
If you have problems with bass boom in your room, I'd go for sealed. In my room, ported would sound better.
Obviously, you could build a 56ltr vented enclosure and stuff the port to see what it sounds like, but 56ltr sealed will sound rather lean.
You would want a much larger port than that! I'm going to go with a 4"port in a 110 liter enclosure for a port tuning of 21.5hz...this should place the woofers minimum motion right where it needs it....if my modeling in correct I should get sub 20hz extension! A huge cabinet is the only way I could get a smooth roll off at the bottom end with the A26...
Should sound good in the great outdoors. I like to use my speakers inside my house though.
Hey Guys,
I've become interested in the A26. Would it work in either of these two configurations:
- A26 in a 70-80 liter sealed cabinet, with a fullrange driver a la SEAS FA22?
or
- A26 in a 70-80 liter sealed cabinet, with a mid-tweeter horn on top?
A couple of questions:
- Will a passive radiator make any sense regarding low bass from the A26?
- How big of a cabinet does it make sense to build?
- And, how much power does the A26 require to shine?
Kind regards
Mads
I've become interested in the A26. Would it work in either of these two configurations:
- A26 in a 70-80 liter sealed cabinet, with a fullrange driver a la SEAS FA22?
or
- A26 in a 70-80 liter sealed cabinet, with a mid-tweeter horn on top?
A couple of questions:
- Will a passive radiator make any sense regarding low bass from the A26?
- How big of a cabinet does it make sense to build?
- And, how much power does the A26 require to shine?
Kind regards
Mads
Given that the 10Æ is doing bass, it makes sense to use something better than FA22 when the bass is unnecessary, smaller, better dispersion, better phase (ie no whizzer).
I would use a 3” midTweeter, MA Alapir 5.2/3, Fostex FF85wk, Faital Pro 23FE my favorites but far from all the possibilities.
U di have a drawing that is not quite done for exactly this ap. Poke me and i;kk try to get it done.
dave
I would use a 3” midTweeter, MA Alapir 5.2/3, Fostex FF85wk, Faital Pro 23FE my favorites but far from all the possibilities.
U di have a drawing that is not quite done for exactly this ap. Poke me and i;kk try to get it done.
dave
Malm,
70-80 L seems to be reasonable for sealed box . Maximally flat alignment should be about 63L, so you’re a bit below that Qtc. Critically damped takes you to 200+ liters so there is a wide range.
Whether it will work as you intend it is a bit hard to know without knowing your design goals.
With regards to passive radiators, those are really intended to allow bass reflex designs in boxes that cannot accommodate the required port length/size for the tuning desired. In this case I guess the answer is “maybe”, since a br for this driver tuned flat would require quite large box (170l or so).
70-80 L seems to be reasonable for sealed box . Maximally flat alignment should be about 63L, so you’re a bit below that Qtc. Critically damped takes you to 200+ liters so there is a wide range.
Whether it will work as you intend it is a bit hard to know without knowing your design goals.
With regards to passive radiators, those are really intended to allow bass reflex designs in boxes that cannot accommodate the required port length/size for the tuning desired. In this case I guess the answer is “maybe”, since a br for this driver tuned flat would require quite large box (170l or so).
Hi, sorry for the late reply. Your suggestion sounds like a sound idea🙂Wide dispersion would be really nice as I listen from different spots and generally find it hard to sit still in one place and just listen… - Yup, ADD is the name of the game🥴Given that the 10Æ is doing bass, it makes sense to use something better than FA22 when the bass is unnecessary, smaller, better dispersion, better phase (ie no whizzer).
I would use a 3” midTweeter, MA Alapir 5.2/3, Fostex FF85wk, Faital Pro 23FE my favorites but far from all the possibilities.
U di have a drawing that is not quite done for exactly this ap. Poke me and i;kk try to get it done.
dave
So, which mid-tweeter will give me wide dispersion and transparency and no fatigue?
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