It has a -5V to -40V note on the negative schematic's output arrow too.
Use the negative section as a pre-reg for a -3V LDO.
That's a good configuration.
P.S. I would be interested in your report when you will try BiB vs UltraBiB on BA-3
P.S. I would be interested in your report when you will try BiB vs UltraBiB on BA-3
Thanks. Might the presence of a -3v LDO compromise the improvement of the Ultra over the standard Bib which I already use ?
I don't know, depends on what that -3V rail feeds in your application. Is it a peripheral circuit? Some negative sinking CCS tail?
It feeds the power input of my pared down Hagerman Piccolo1 mc step up (switches removed, fixed gain and impedance)
I and my friend spent 4hrs. with BA3+ultrabib yesterday, we agree that this Reg takes BA3 to a new level.
If you compare with BIB, ultrabib preserve all good thing from BIB and add more "real" to the sound.
For example you can hear the sound of small chime both from BIB and ultrabib but you feel that the sound from ultrabib is more real than before. This make the listening very involving.
My friend had gone to far to say that this is the best that he ever heard from my system and to be honest, I did not expect this outcome. I thought it will be slightly difference between the two, except that this one is far more easier to build.
The next project would be pairing this Reg with DCG3.
FYI my system consist of BA3+807se+diy 91db TL speaker.
Thank you Salas for such a wonderful project.
C.S.
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I just saw its manual. Its the tail bias resistors currents return line and the output buffer's current sink return so its like a 0V reference line and a low noise LDO should not be much intrusive there. The positive line has all the dynamic loads.
That's very nice, congratulations. It follows other early testers reports also i.e. not altering the sound but simply making it resolutely better. You made some quick prototype so you could test already?
Yes, I follows your schematic and layout from the picture of your PCB. I think this would be very close to the real PCB.
I built 1reg to supply 2 boards of BA3. Two channels of BA3 comsume around 110ma.
I set a CCS current to be 300ma . C3 is Panasonic fm 100/50v C2 is nichicon kz 470/50v and R9 is 470E and I used irf610/9610 for m1.
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That 110mA consumption is RMS I assume, not pk-pk. Because its a line duty Class A preamp it should not ask significantly more current on top of its hefty bias for driving some easy several kΩ line load.
So if you have too hot reg sinks now, because its 24V also so 4.56W for M2 on 190mA spare, you could go down to 125mA spare and 3W. But if nothing bothers you as it is set you may as well leave it alone. Or is it a balanced build that consumes double? For the capacitors you followed the general recommendations, nice.
Was it intuitive for you to set in general and steady for Vout after warmed up? Drift bothered you at all in working practice? Did you find the aid of a dummy load for your CCS level necessary? I ask to know if there is some difficulty during the build and setting procedure that I forgot to clarify.
So if you have too hot reg sinks now, because its 24V also so 4.56W for M2 on 190mA spare, you could go down to 125mA spare and 3W. But if nothing bothers you as it is set you may as well leave it alone. Or is it a balanced build that consumes double? For the capacitors you followed the general recommendations, nice.
Was it intuitive for you to set in general and steady for Vout after warmed up? Drift bothered you at all in working practice? Did you find the aid of a dummy load for your CCS level necessary? I ask to know if there is some difficulty during the build and setting procedure that I forgot to clarify.
Vout decrease when the Reg is warming up. I initially set at the working voltage and adjust accordingly when the Reg heats up. It will settle down in 20-30min and remains there. At the end I set vout to be around 24.2.
In the working condition after turn it on, it start at 25v and after 30mins it goes down to 24.3v and drift up and down around +/-0.1v. No need to adjust anything.
I was using a dummy load when I first set the voltage but when I did a fine tuning I didn't connect dummy load and there was no problem, everything went smoothly.
No, I didn't see it untill you mention it. Just use what I have at hand. It's generic red led. Does it matter?
I don't know about Tc of each generic if close to the recommended but for noise it shouldn't matter
