my musical paradise amp is also double sided but the holes are bigger so it is so much easier to solder and desolder?
THE WICK IS NOT very heldful or maybe mine is bad quality or maybe i just use it wring. i watched some videos and people just put the wick on and put the iron over it. this is awful i cant really afford to redo this.
THE WICK IS NOT very heldful or maybe mine is bad quality or maybe i just use it wring. i watched some videos and people just put the wick on and put the iron over it. this is awful i cant really afford to redo this.
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This one also has large copper areas due to shield layer and large islands at points that pull thermal capacity. Its also made with heavy oz copper. If your iron is variable set it to 390C. 60W is good. Use flux too. Keep the desoldering area wet with new solder. You can also heat from one side and cover the other side with the suction tool better.
Drench the wick in liquid flux or dip it in flux paste first. When the rework area is dry nothing cooperates.
got the mosfets out. all got destroyed in the provcess of couse so i cant test them. the wick did not help much but putting new solder on it to conduct heat did help. im gonna but a better soldering station. my weller now is 60 watt station but the pencil iron itself is 42 watt.
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There are some very cheap component testers on ebay etc. which do the basic job like this TC1
YouTube
i own one of these but the mosfets dont have legs anymore.
There are some very cheap component testers on ebay etc. which do the basic job like this TC1
YouTube
ppm is usually the temperature coefficient in resistors. 100 is good enough also in this
this is what i can find:
FMP100JR-52-0R33 Yageo | Mouser
Hi Mr Salas,
Pls help me to buy a full kits of PCB and parts or complated PCB that supply +-15V. I want to use your famous board for Katana DAC OPAMP board.
Pls give me some advices for this project. Thank you very much.
Pls help me to buy a full kits of PCB and parts or complated PCB that supply +-15V. I want to use your famous board for Katana DAC OPAMP board.
Pls give me some advices for this project. Thank you very much.
Technical advice is gathered in post#1 here, download the short PDF guide that has a list of parts too. As for boards and key components Mr Tea-Bag is the group buy organizer and you should seek his advice about their availability.
Technical advice is gathered in post#1 here, download the short PDF guide that has a list of parts too. As for boards and key components Mr Tea-Bag is the group buy organizer and you should seek his advice about their availability.
Many thanks !!!
Hi Sir Salas
I am updating the Bib board for
12.6v 1.5a
+/- 15v 0.7a.
Anything I should know?
Also old Bib had been pretty good. However it finally met its nemesis after almost a year. Industrial linear supply. Compared to it less quiet and more ringing
Hope can win again. As the industrial psu is so bulky.
I am updating the Bib board for
12.6v 1.5a
+/- 15v 0.7a.
Anything I should know?
Also old Bib had been pretty good. However it finally met its nemesis after almost a year. Industrial linear supply. Compared to it less quiet and more ringing
Hope can win again. As the industrial psu is so bulky.
Use ample sinking especially in the 1.5A section. 150mA spare current is enough. Maybe 200mA not more. Review your peak load consumption vs spare (shunt) current target so to set your CC (constant current) limit wisely not to waste much heat as 1.5A is approaching the upper limit of the Fairchild M1 capability and to keep the bias current noise lower in the output M2 IRF MOSFET. The 1.3 does not dynamically benefit as much from excessive spare current as the 1.1 by the way.
Use thick cables no shorter than 5cm between the DC output and the load. Remember that transformers must be considered about 40% less capable for rated secondary current when full bridge rectified. The 1.5A section should have 10000uF C1 or more. See if its TO-220 bridge diodes will need some sinking also. Use 10K VR1 in all those sections for more precise turns if you are not going to have higher than 25V DC applications.
This version is easier to deploy and less prone to become polluted from noise or to get excited for ringing than BiB 1.1 which held very well considering its age. The 1.3 UltraBiB is noticeably more advanced in subjective terms also as reported by early beta testers and later builders too.
Use thick cables no shorter than 5cm between the DC output and the load. Remember that transformers must be considered about 40% less capable for rated secondary current when full bridge rectified. The 1.5A section should have 10000uF C1 or more. See if its TO-220 bridge diodes will need some sinking also. Use 10K VR1 in all those sections for more precise turns if you are not going to have higher than 25V DC applications.
This version is easier to deploy and less prone to become polluted from noise or to get excited for ringing than BiB 1.1 which held very well considering its age. The 1.3 UltraBiB is noticeably more advanced in subjective terms also as reported by early beta testers and later builders too.
Thank you Sir. I'll give it a go
However. Is it possible to use bjt instead of mosfet. Could you recomend some for the 1.5 a and below 1a built?
However. Is it possible to use bjt instead of mosfet. Could you recomend some for the 1.5 a and below 1a built?
No, it will lose a ton of open loop gain. There is a compound feedback pair in this and the TO-92 BJT drives a MOSFET's high input impedance much better.
You can use IRF9630 & IRF630 as alternatives for high CC if you got a problem finding the M1 Fairchilds but they will be slower with triple the Ciss pF (that can make the HF subjectively little less refined) although twice as robust with 4A continuous drain current capability (at core temperature =100C). Can be used for M2 also as they are compatible to the IRF9530 & IRF530 in this. Less in max current spec but less in pF also. Below 1A CC you can alternatively use IRF9610 & IRF610 M1 as mentioned in the schematics. Those are fast class types like the FQP3P20 & FQP3N30 but less robust. The FQPs are closer matching between P & N types with more gfs also but producing more Vgs drop than the IRFs.
You can use IRF9630 & IRF630 as alternatives for high CC if you got a problem finding the M1 Fairchilds but they will be slower with triple the Ciss pF (that can make the HF subjectively little less refined) although twice as robust with 4A continuous drain current capability (at core temperature =100C). Can be used for M2 also as they are compatible to the IRF9530 & IRF530 in this. Less in max current spec but less in pF also. Below 1A CC you can alternatively use IRF9610 & IRF610 M1 as mentioned in the schematics. Those are fast class types like the FQP3P20 & FQP3N30 but less robust. The FQPs are closer matching between P & N types with more gfs also but producing more Vgs drop than the IRFs.
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