getting major hum on one channel, the other is good.
anyone can guide me to troubleshoot with this?
regards
anyone can guide me to troubleshoot with this?
regards
short both inputs, one at a time, see if that helps.
By short, I mean connect input positive and ground.
By short, I mean connect input positive and ground.
It kinda sounds like a ground loop.
How is the system connected. If your bi-amping, turn one amp off.
How is the system connected. If your bi-amping, turn one amp off.
I removed the ldr and selector switch and have only R-G-B wires hooked up to the input.
I still get a hum but now, when I short the red input channel, the hum disappears, the black channel is still ok.
I still get a hum but now, when I short the red input channel, the hum disappears, the black channel is still ok.
I reconnected all my wires and all is working now.
Zero hum!
bass is tight and very precise. Quite pleaesd with the setup
Zero hum!
bass is tight and very precise. Quite pleaesd with the setup
standard 38R dcb1
You mean two 38R in parallel or net total? We used 68//68 on the black boards for no sinks. Less value starts pushing it. It was 47//47 in the blue boards for small clip sinks.
using 68/68 but I did not see the default 47/47. I was probably reading an old post when I built it.
I installed small aluminum sinks for the ones getting warm (about 50 degrees F)
works like a charm. Only issue remaining is the gainclone blowing fuses (no soft start installed).
next project will be stage 2 dcb1 and F5 in aluminum casing.
thanks again for this relatively easy build for a starter like me.
I installed small aluminum sinks for the ones getting warm (about 50 degrees F)
works like a charm. Only issue remaining is the gainclone blowing fuses (no soft start installed).
next project will be stage 2 dcb1 and F5 in aluminum casing.
thanks again for this relatively easy build for a starter like me.
Again !
"
OK, i changed JFETS, and now i have:
on R10-1: 2,037V / 279.8mA
on R10-2: 1.813V / 241.0mA
on Shunt output i have:
+9.85V / 196.4mA
-9.86V / 171.9mA
on LOUT i have: -0.8mV
on ROUT i have: -1.5mV
Also ma matched all LEDS on 1.848V and triplets on 1.850V !
What else i should do, or this is good enough ?
"
"
OK, i changed JFETS, and now i have:
on R10-1: 2,037V / 279.8mA
on R10-2: 1.813V / 241.0mA
on Shunt output i have:
+9.85V / 196.4mA
-9.86V / 171.9mA
on LOUT i have: -0.8mV
on ROUT i have: -1.5mV
Also ma matched all LEDS on 1.848V and triplets on 1.850V !
What else i should do, or this is good enough ?
"
Nothing, its good. Your CCS calculations are rather ~200 & ~180mA well near targets. Offset is excellent. Vout matching is excellent.
Nothing, its good. Your CCS calculations are rather ~200 & ~180mA well near targets. Offset is excellent. Vout matching is excellent.
Thanx ! This is what i want to hear ...
Is there a way i can add gain to whole pramp - maybe 10-12 dB!
liek JISBOS or some UnityGain ... Just thinking to add a little punch !
This seems an odd request.Is there a way i can add gain to whole pramp - maybe 10-12 dB!.................. Just thinking to add a little punch !
Does your system "need" more gain.
How much attenuation do you currently use at "normal" listening levels and at "loud" listening levels?
Adding "punch" seems more like adding deliberate distortion to change the sound to something that better suits your ears/speakers/room.
Hi,
Can I use a transformer with 30VA 15V x 2 for the DCB1 ? Is the output current and voltage enough for hot rodding it? If not then can I use 2 transformers (1 per rail) and parallel the secondary winding to obtain higher current output?
Thanks
Can I use a transformer with 30VA 15V x 2 for the DCB1 ? Is the output current and voltage enough for hot rodding it? If not then can I use 2 transformers (1 per rail) and parallel the secondary winding to obtain higher current output?
Thanks
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