Also orient the AC secondaries exit area away from facing signal runs, the same with the 230VAC mains wiring, keep good mounting distances & tidy cables in general, you will be fine.
BTW nobody asked special assistance yet about facing hum problems if I remember well. And there are enough builds done by now. Seems easy to succeed making this system quiet.
Odds are on your side.
I wonder if this preamp has enough juice to power straight my high sensitivity fullrange driver (8'',8 ohm, Rullit Classic and Azurahorn fronthorn).
By now, my current amplifier is Class AB chip amp, the Tripath TA2024, The fullange drivers are not happy with more than 6 watts that this IC delivers.
Now I may consider upgrade to a true Class A.
I already bought the M2C board, but never completed the project, I learned despite being a Pass amp. it's not a low power one, and my driver will lost dinamic and synergy if more than 3w. (in class A).
By now, my current amplifier is Class AB chip amp, the Tripath TA2024, The fullange drivers are not happy with more than 6 watts that this IC delivers.
Now I may consider upgrade to a true Class A.
I already bought the M2C board, but never completed the project, I learned despite being a Pass amp. it's not a low power one, and my driver will lost dinamic and synergy if more than 3w. (in class A).
No, its not biased for such a load. Its CCS MOSFET type can't provide the needed bias current even if maxed out.
Hi Variac, Tripath I read somewere is a Class T amplifier, described as a Class AB one with consumtion of Class D.
So not Class AB, right, but performing as it was. Their sound once optimized is plenty High End, not complaints concerning the sound,...ehem... only I may regret if I wants absence of flavour, or euphonics. Is pure dry, very handy at listening to modifications.
So it would be nice other as Class A to compare.
Other reason to move from it, is I burned many of them, and each time almost damage the speakers.
I will check the thread burning amp. Thanks
I understand an integrated amp.. even low power one, may differ a lot from this.
Thanks att.
Say at 24V pk-pk (very high output signal) R7 will get 32mW pk-pk power and R6 70mW pk-pk so the 1/8W resistor will still safely take it
Thanks guys, just what I needed to know. I have one more thing to decide, which is the heatsink (and most possibly the chassis).
I only do through holes in heatsinks for mosfets and such so the distance mosfets have among them is important. If not 1 cm, I'll have to buy a copper bar if the bottom plate is not thick enough. I can't determine with certainty the distance from the pictures, anyone has the numbers ?
I only do through holes in heatsinks for mosfets and such so the distance mosfets have among them is important. If not 1 cm, I'll have to buy a copper bar if the bottom plate is not thick enough. I can't determine with certainty the distance from the pictures, anyone has the numbers ?
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Please a question concerning the power supply 17,5V. dual DCSTB (if groupbuy has leftover 
), could be further cascoded to reach 12v. and even 8v. To power together with Salas DCG3 preamp, an http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analog-line-level/278667-arduino-based-ldr-volume-source-selection-controller.html
I would like to use: LT3045-M Ultralow-noise (0.8µVRMS) LDO linear regulator 0V-15V - 500mA (1V Step)
Instead of their original matching power supply, I thing also to the expense, has associated low quality and high noise transformer and regulators, please see attachment :
), could be further cascoded to reach 12v. and even 8v. To power together with Salas DCG3 preamp, an http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analog-line-level/278667-arduino-based-ldr-volume-source-selection-controller.htmlI would like to use: LT3045-M Ultralow-noise (0.8µVRMS) LDO linear regulator 0V-15V - 500mA (1V Step)
Instead of their original matching power supply, I thing also to the expense, has associated low quality and high noise transformer and regulators, please see attachment :
Attachments
Yes you can cascade (chain) further lower voltage regulators from the DCSTB's output to feed various subsystems. Or from its raw DC nodes. DCG3 itself needs around +/-17V to function properly. Don't change that. Things to watch are not to draw too much additional current for subsystems overloading the given sinks (they are good for up to 150-170mA per polarity but you can use taller ones if you must draw 200-250mA /polarity) and to use TO-220 type rectifier diodes in the DCSTB's raw DC section so not to overload smaller ones. There are alternative pads for such diodes already. If the fuses will kick, uprate them.
Another simpler thing you could do instead of adding further regulators for subsystems since DCSTB is already a low noise and low impedance voltage referenced Sziklai pair capacitance multiplier, is to drop the needed voltages from its output with simple RC cells tailored for each subsystem. Sometimes passive filtering for voltage drop is all you need. Surely benign for self noise at least.
Totally separate subsystems PSU as in your drawing is of course a very good solution regarding their isolation to the main preamp circuit.
Another simpler thing you could do instead of adding further regulators for subsystems since DCSTB is already a low noise and low impedance voltage referenced Sziklai pair capacitance multiplier, is to drop the needed voltages from its output with simple RC cells tailored for each subsystem. Sometimes passive filtering for voltage drop is all you need. Surely benign for self noise at least.
Totally separate subsystems PSU as in your drawing is of course a very good solution regarding their isolation to the main preamp circuit.
Just a word of caution, will never again plug a set of headphones into any amp using such powerful output devices without an output transformer or series output cap. Lost two HD800 and one Sony MDR from a little fault sneaking in while fiddling in the amp with headphones connected.
Invariably one day you will stick your fingers into the amp while headphones are connected and all you will hear is a deadness after a loud thump and your ear getting warm - then it is much too late and your $2000 headphone is history.
BTW this is true for almost any DIY hobby, you fiddle because you think you are smart and know what you are doing, and then..... This is directed at Patric!
Invariably one day you will stick your fingers into the amp while headphones are connected and all you will hear is a deadness after a loud thump and your ear getting warm - then it is much too late and your $2000 headphone is history.
BTW this is true for almost any DIY hobby, you fiddle because you think you are smart and know what you are doing, and then..... This is directed at Patric!
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http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/headphone-systems/292681-xen-shpp-simple-headphone-protection.html
Transformer or series output cap (or SHPP) will only save you against DC.
Won't save you against oscillations or large output signal amplitudes.
It is always a bad idea to fiddle with headphones connected.
Equally bad idea to plug headphones in and out while amp is on, unless you use Mini XLR or Lemo.
Patrick
Transformer or series output cap (or SHPP) will only save you against DC.
Won't save you against oscillations or large output signal amplitudes.
It is always a bad idea to fiddle with headphones connected.
Equally bad idea to plug headphones in and out while amp is on, unless you use Mini XLR or Lemo.
Patrick
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/headphone-systems/292681-xen-shpp-simple-headphone-protection.html
Transformer or series output cap (or SHPP) will only save you against DC.
Won't save you against oscillations or large output signal amplitudes.
It is always a bad idea to fiddle with headphones connected.
Equally bad idea to plug headphones in and out while amp is on, unless you use Mini XLR or Lemo.
Patrick
