So I've read through most of my new book: "Woodworking with the Router" but have yet to understand how everyone is routing the recess around the speaker cutout.
So should I:
1.Use a circle jig and plunge into the recess first, then cut out the mounting hole
2.Cut out the hole, then use a template to rabbet/mortise the recess from above
3. Cut out the hole, then ride the edge of the hole to rabbet the recess
Thanks!
Paul
So should I:
1.Use a circle jig and plunge into the recess first, then cut out the mounting hole
2.Cut out the hole, then use a template to rabbet/mortise the recess from above
3. Cut out the hole, then ride the edge of the hole to rabbet the recess
Thanks!
Paul
Member
Joined 2003
I also am interested to know this, as I will be building some bookshelf cabinets in a few weeks, and am told that not countersinking the tweeter is a bad idea.
Don't do any of that, throw the router back in the box and get a refund.
Then carefully use a hammer and chisel to make your holes, its what I do and the fit is perfect if you look at it from the right angle.
Hope this helps
PS. Its number 1 in your list 🙂
Then carefully use a hammer and chisel to make your holes, its what I do and the fit is perfect if you look at it from the right angle.
Hope this helps
PS. Its number 1 in your list 🙂
Member
Joined 2003
Member
Joined 2003
You can use #3 as well, simply cut the hole and then use a piloted rabbet bit to follow the outline of the hole. This method makes controlling the depth of the recess very easy.
Pete
Pete
Another method without using the jig.
I've used this myself.Works great on irregular mounting flange
http://www.exquisiteaudio.ca/baffle.html
I've used this myself.Works great on irregular mounting flange
http://www.exquisiteaudio.ca/baffle.html
Yeah, #3 and the method in the link are the same. I was considering this if I use the Peerless HDS woofers. Thanks guys!
Peter Menting said:
Irwin AR said:
Actually, they are not, my mistake. However, it is very intereting to see that people are using all three methods. If I go with the HDS woofs, I'll probably use a template and my guide bushings. If I go with a circle-shaped CSX or otherwise, I'll rabbet first, cut later.
xyrium said:
The template guide method does work with the HDS woofers, however you still have to trim the corners with a sharp chisel due to the fact the shape of the woofer is a cut off circle (the cut-off has no rounding), if this is not done the woofer will not fit basically.
Irwin AR said:
I've a nice little Rockwell router. I usually cut the hole, fit the driver, draw around the outer edge of the drive, then freehand the rebate... but then they don't let me make the pretty cabinets 😀
dave
Some nice info on this thread, particularly about recessing irregular flanges. Thanks to those who posted instructions!
Good point noodle. I suppose I wouldn't lose much definition by going with the CSX instead of the HDS. I really don't want to spend all day trying to get those four notches perfect. It will drive me crazy!
I will say that the Jasper jig is quite nice however. Unfortunately, once you do more than about 5 passes using that same pivot poiint, the MDF gets a little mushy at the pivot. Therefore, if you can do the recess in one pass (shouldn't be a problem) and the hole in two, you'll get a very precise circle.
I will say that the Jasper jig is quite nice however. Unfortunately, once you do more than about 5 passes using that same pivot poiint, the MDF gets a little mushy at the pivot. Therefore, if you can do the recess in one pass (shouldn't be a problem) and the hole in two, you'll get a very precise circle.
noodle_snacks said:
I've been following this thread, hoping to get some inspiration about the easiest (hmmm... !?) way of making recesses. I, too, will be using the HDS units, and came acrtoss this:
I don't understand why this is a problem. As long as the router bit is smaller than the recess diameter (the width at the cut sides), it should be able to follow the contour of the HDS.
As this will always be the case, there should be no problem recreating the HDS shape, as I see it.
Jennice
noodle_snacks said:
I don't understand why this is a problem. As long as the router bit is smaller than the recess diameter (the width at the cut sides), it should be able to follow the contour of the HDS.
As this will always be the case, there should be no problem recreating the HDS shape, as I see it.
Jennice
I'm with dave.... Freehand all the way! mistakes can be made.... a 4'x8' sheet of MDF only costs me $20
If you make your cabinets pretty enough no one will believe that you built them anyhow!
If you make your cabinets pretty enough no one will believe that you built them anyhow!
The HDS rebate is easily done with a MDF jig and router guide but after doing heaps, it was a waste of time IMO and the driver was just as good mounted on the baffle without the rebate.
I'm now not rebating mid/woofers which allows me to overlap the tweeter faceplate if necessary... to get closer centres.
Tweeters need rebates for sure and a DIY Jasper style jig is the way to go and I use a 6mm High Speed Steel (old drill) swivel pin so there is no MDF tearing. For real fun, try rebating and cutting out for a Vifa D26NC... pita.
I'm now not rebating mid/woofers which allows me to overlap the tweeter faceplate if necessary... to get closer centres.
Tweeters need rebates for sure and a DIY Jasper style jig is the way to go and I use a 6mm High Speed Steel (old drill) swivel pin so there is no MDF tearing. For real fun, try rebating and cutting out for a Vifa D26NC... pita.
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