Routing the recess?

xyrium

Member
2005-04-11 3:54 pm
NJ
So I've read through most of my new book: "Woodworking with the Router" but have yet to understand how everyone is routing the recess around the speaker cutout.

So should I:

1.Use a circle jig and plunge into the recess first, then cut out the mounting hole

2.Cut out the hole, then use a template to rabbet/mortise the recess from above

3. Cut out the hole, then ride the edge of the hole to rabbet the recess

Thanks!
Paul
 

ShinOBIWAN

diyAudio Member
2004-02-25 9:13 pm
UK
Don't do any of that, throw the router back in the box and get a refund.

Then carefully use a hammer and chisel to make your holes, its what I do and the fit is perfect if you look at it from the right angle.

Hope this helps :devilr:

PS. Its number 1 in your list :)
 
xyrium said:
So I've read through most of my new book: "Woodworking with the Router" but have yet to understand how everyone is routing the recess around the speaker cutout.

So should I:

1.Use a circle jig and plunge into the recess first, then cut out the mounting hole

2.Cut out the hole, then use a template to rabbet/mortise the recess from above

3. Cut out the hole, then ride the edge of the hole to rabbet the recess

Thanks!
Paul

No. 1 is correct.

Paul
 

xyrium

Member
2005-04-11 3:54 pm
NJ
Yeah, #3 and the method in the link are the same. I was considering this if I use the Peerless HDS woofers. Thanks guys!

Peter Menting said:
You can use #3 as well, simply cut the hole and then use a piloted rabbet bit to follow the outline of the hole. This method makes controlling the depth of the recess very easy.

Pete


Irwin AR said:
Another method without using the jig.
I've used this myself.Works great on irregular mounting flange
http://www.exquisiteaudio.ca/baffle.html
 

xyrium

Member
2005-04-11 3:54 pm
NJ
Actually, they are not, my mistake. However, it is very intereting to see that people are using all three methods. If I go with the HDS woofs, I'll probably use a template and my guide bushings. If I go with a circle-shaped CSX or otherwise, I'll rabbet first, cut later.

xyrium said:
Yeah, #3 and the method in the link are the same. I was considering this if I use the Peerless HDS woofers. Thanks guys!




 

xyrium

Member
2005-04-11 3:54 pm
NJ
Good point noodle. I suppose I wouldn't lose much definition by going with the CSX instead of the HDS. I really don't want to spend all day trying to get those four notches perfect. It will drive me crazy!

I will say that the Jasper jig is quite nice however. Unfortunately, once you do more than about 5 passes using that same pivot poiint, the MDF gets a little mushy at the pivot. Therefore, if you can do the recess in one pass (shouldn't be a problem) and the hole in two, you'll get a very precise circle.

noodle_snacks said:
The template guide method does work with the HDS woofers, however you still have to trim the corners with a sharp chisel due to the fact the shape of the woofer is a cut off circle (the cut-off has no rounding), if this is not done the woofer will not fit basically.
 
I've been following this thread, hoping to get some inspiration about the easiest (hmmm... !?) way of making recesses. I, too, will be using the HDS units, and came acrtoss this:

noodle_snacks said:
The template guide method does work with the HDS woofers, however you still have to trim the corners with a sharp chisel due to the fact the shape of the woofer is a cut off circle (the cut-off has no rounding), if this is not done the woofer will not fit basically.

I don't understand why this is a problem. As long as the router bit is smaller than the recess diameter (the width at the cut sides), it should be able to follow the contour of the HDS.

As this will always be the case, there should be no problem recreating the HDS shape, as I see it.


Jennice
 
The HDS rebate is easily done with a MDF jig and router guide but after doing heaps, it was a waste of time IMO and the driver was just as good mounted on the baffle without the rebate.

I'm now not rebating mid/woofers which allows me to overlap the tweeter faceplate if necessary... to get closer centres.

Tweeters need rebates for sure and a DIY Jasper style jig is the way to go and I use a 6mm High Speed Steel (old drill) swivel pin so there is no MDF tearing. For real fun, try rebating and cutting out for a Vifa D26NC... pita.
 

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