R276 12.95
R218 0
R118 0
R122 13.5
But... I noticed slight rise from current draw 0.67amps, measured dc outs, right channel 13mv left 26mv.
Oh hell
R218 0
R118 0
R122 13.5
But... I noticed slight rise from current draw 0.67amps, measured dc outs, right channel 13mv left 26mv.
Oh hell
kept it on for awhile, put bias 4mV,pressed board around for loose connection, amp idles 1.06amps and sound is ok.
when it heats up a bit mono channel has 9mV DC
case closed
Thanks again Perry
when it heats up a bit mono channel has 9mV DC
case closed
Thanks again Perry
i put old resistors in, i dont have new ones.
i dont know what happened and how reliable this is. i measured those gates from leg to R233 R260 and they looked ok.
im planning put amp in and play it full throttle, maybe some switch to speaker wire if it plans to go negative rail again
after post #53 is made with newly soldered resistors, i think idle was up that first test
i dont know what happened and how reliable this is. i measured those gates from leg to R233 R260 and they looked ok.
im planning put amp in and play it full throttle, maybe some switch to speaker wire if it plans to go negative rail again
after post #53 is made with newly soldered resistors, i think idle was up that first test
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These are the original FETs, correct?
Did you replace all heatsink compound after the first repair?
Did you replace all heatsink compound after the first repair?
Q119 was blown first time also.
New heatsink paste was used.
This was hot amp when i put it back in car
New heatsink paste was used.
This was hot amp when i put it back in car
Did you adjust the bias current and confirmed that it held after the first repair?
Did you use parts from a reputable distributor (not ebay/amazon)?
Did you replace both Q119 and 115?
Did you tin the backs of the replacement FETs before soldering them to the MEHSA strips?
Did you use parts from a reputable distributor (not ebay/amazon)?
Did you replace both Q119 and 115?
Did you tin the backs of the replacement FETs before soldering them to the MEHSA strips?
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I don't see a reason for the failure unless you overheated the FETs when tinning the backs of them.
took left channel fets out, cleaned board for new parts.
i powered amp, it turns on and right channel has same 28v dc out as after first repair.
so something is going on
i powered amp, it turns on and right channel has same 28v dc out as after first repair.
so something is going on