You can use a 10. If it blows, you can go to a 15. The exception would be if the 10 blows violently. That would likely mean that there is a problem.
Post the voltage that you read.
Post the voltage that you read.
The SMD resistors are ceramic. You cannot bend them. Thye solder flat to the board like the rest.
I would not expect to see only 2 that are different. Which 2 resistors are different (circuit board designations)?
Are all of the 3205s from the same batch (same date code)?
Are the two resistors with a different voltage the only 2 you replaced?
I would not expect to see only 2 that are different. Which 2 resistors are different (circuit board designations)?
Are all of the 3205s from the same batch (same date code)?
Are the two resistors with a different voltage the only 2 you replaced?
Q6, Q5, Q7, Q8 all read 5.19 Q12-9 5.15, should try to test it with out heatsink or wait til the 47ohm resistors come?
When only 2 read different, that looked suspicious. When 4 read one voltage and the other 4 read a similar but a very slightly different voltage, that's not generally a problem.
You can test it without the heatsink but you have to monitor the temperature of all heatsink mounted components very carefully. If it doesn't blow the fuse and produces clean audio, apply heatsink compound and clamp it down before you do any further testing.
You can test it without the heatsink but you have to monitor the temperature of all heatsink mounted components very carefully. If it doesn't blow the fuse and produces clean audio, apply heatsink compound and clamp it down before you do any further testing.
Well i havent put the 47ohm gate resistors as of yet (i dont have any) I only did a fast test the led light up and i unhooked it the mosfet became pretty warm.(I felt them after) I didnt want to damage any thing further.
They got hot but didn't blow the 10 amp fuse?
Are you referring to the 3205s getting hot? All of the transistors mounted to the MEHSA insulators are FETs so saying MOSFETs is not a good way to describe what happened.
Are you referring to the 3205s getting hot? All of the transistors mounted to the MEHSA insulators are FETs so saying MOSFETs is not a good way to describe what happened.
yes, the the 3205 ps fets. nothing blew. it wasnt hooked up longer then 1-2 seconds. i just verified it powed up. I removed all the 10R gate resistors and am awaiting for the 47Ohm to arrive, ill install them and test the rail voltage again before B+ again, and post the result. Thanks
I don't remember using anything other than 10 ohm resistors in these amps and never had a problem with them. Are you sure that you got the drivers in the correct locations?
Are you sure that you don't have any shorted outputs or any other problems with the output side of the amp?
Are you sure that you don't have any shorted outputs or any other problems with the output side of the amp?
I thought you said to use the 47Ohm gate resistors with the 3205's? Q21=A06, Q19=A56, Q17=A56, Q20=A06, Just like the other amp i havent touched yet. I have 10 Ohm gate resistors i can install. As for the Output side nothing appeared damaged, how should i test that side?
You should not read anything near 0 ohms between the legs of any individual FET, regardless of the probe/terminal combination.
I use 10 ohm resistors but 10-47 are OK.
Do NOT apply B+ with the gate resistors out of the circuit.
I use 10 ohm resistors but 10-47 are OK.
Do NOT apply B+ with the gate resistors out of the circuit.
I do know that i few of the resistors on the output side of the board are as follows:
R186=5.4
R187=15.8
R188=5.8
R180=15.4
R181=5.5
R182=15.5
R189=15.4
R190=15.4
R191=15.4
R183=15.4
R184=15.3
R185=15.3
R186=5.4
R187=15.8
R188=5.8
R180=15.4
R181=5.5
R182=15.5
R189=15.4
R190=15.4
R191=15.4
R183=15.4
R184=15.3
R185=15.3
Ok i have the 10 ohm, ill be replacing all of them. I get a 15.18 on Q10 only, all the rest test good.
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