Brian Steele its version 0.3.
1. I see some horns have a slotted baffle, i.e rectangular opening where driver is mount instead of a normal round opening (Martin Audio WSX, Volvo Treter Mivoc 30Hz tapped horn, MarcO MicC-146 on this site) etc. Whats the effect of that?
2. Which amplifier do you recommend for running 2 x dual 15" (8ohm, 700W AES per driver) per channel? Any further advices?
1. I see some horns have a slotted baffle, i.e rectangular opening where driver is mount instead of a normal round opening (Martin Audio WSX, Volvo Treter Mivoc 30Hz tapped horn, MarcO MicC-146 on this site) etc. Whats the effect of that?
2. Which amplifier do you recommend for running 2 x dual 15" (8ohm, 700W AES per driver) per channel? Any further advices?
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Try Sunway copy(clone) of the famous LabGruppen FP10000q or DSP’ed version.
Two channels for the pairs of paralleled drivers and two channels for tops. Or you can go mad and use it bridged.
Or put something like Powersoft Digimod 1500 inside subs and make them active (this will allow you to exclude long high-gauge wires to subs).
does somebody knows any company that can offer CNC plywood cutting, i want to build some ROAR12 but im not good at wood cutting, i can assemble the pre cutted panels but not doing it from an 8x4 piece
Max.
Max.
Maxolini... there are several companies that can do what you require, but it would probably be helpful if you said where in the world you are, that way people can give advice. If not, just Google it.
Johannes,
does somebody have a DXF plan of the ROAR12
i tried to contact martinsoon blogs
but the contact part of it its broken
I am terrible to wok wood
so need that somebody small shop cut the wood for me
i can assemble tough
CNC shops require the DXF file
i want to build a pair of ROAR12's
Thanks
Max.😎
assimetrical version
hi, I was intrigued by the project, and despite the detractors I decided to use the idea to build my 2 subwoofer, to put under the TV at home, obviously i can not be width (they go into an apartment) .. so I decided to rotate the system, I know that but lacks the character of the roar ,the symmetrical woofer loading ... rather I worry about putting the woofer too close to the end of s3 ..
hi, I was intrigued by the project, and despite the detractors I decided to use the idea to build my 2 subwoofer, to put under the TV at home, obviously i can not be width (they go into an apartment) .. so I decided to rotate the system, I know that but lacks the character of the roar ,the symmetrical woofer loading ... rather I worry about putting the woofer too close to the end of s3 ..
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@Maxolini - sorry for not acting on this in time, the answer is unfortunatly no from our side regarding the DXF, all we have is what is posted on the blog. Normally a cnc-shop should be able to convert the drawings into what whatever format they need, and make any alterations in order to obtain the panel interfaces the need for assembly without impacts on the design.
I currently wait for my two ROAR15's to come out of a local cnc shop using only the drawings published on the blog, so far no problems, expected delivery is in early november, they will be loaded with B&C 15sw115's.
@sgarfa - cool! We conidered a not fully symetrical (angled) resonator initially, but in the end we went for a striaght one with split path seeing as that brought along additional benefits regarding the complete cabinet in the case of ROAR.
I currently wait for my two ROAR15's to come out of a local cnc shop using only the drawings published on the blog, so far no problems, expected delivery is in early november, they will be loaded with B&C 15sw115's.
@sgarfa - cool! We conidered a not fully symetrical (angled) resonator initially, but in the end we went for a striaght one with split path seeing as that brought along additional benefits regarding the complete cabinet in the case of ROAR.
@martinsso..hi.. thank you very much, the idea started from the post TPQWR on your blog... when I finish the project I will put the data...with estimates
If you are putting the enclosure under a TV, then why design a subwoofer with an F3 of 40hz 😕
because I build them in a PA optic (when I do not use them for parties I use them at home) ... I do not think the neighbors they would agree with f3@ 30hz
The nig dip closer to XO frequency might cause dip in the system response, to avoid it you probably need to reduce the badnwidth and/or increase XO slope.
hi.I have big monitors that are capable of pull up from 70/80 hz .. so I can also cut it drastically
Are there any other people here that have build the ROAR 15/18?
I'm considering of replacing al of my current basscabs with something that does 40Hz strong.
At the moment my setup consists out of 6 hybrid cabs (something like the acoustic line TSE sub) loaded each with an BMS 18S430v2.
Using a driver like the 18DS115-8 has to do some serious damage (with the ITECH-8000 that is available). Other contender would be something like the Cubo sub, but there are not many measurements available.
Maybe good to add, I already have build the TH-18, but it's a bit to large for the application. As mid/high I use a cab like the D&B C7, So stacking them on two TH18 is a bit much (and a complex build).
I'm considering of replacing al of my current basscabs with something that does 40Hz strong.
At the moment my setup consists out of 6 hybrid cabs (something like the acoustic line TSE sub) loaded each with an BMS 18S430v2.
Using a driver like the 18DS115-8 has to do some serious damage (with the ITECH-8000 that is available). Other contender would be something like the Cubo sub, but there are not many measurements available.
Maybe good to add, I already have build the TH-18, but it's a bit to large for the application. As mid/high I use a cab like the D&B C7, So stacking them on two TH18 is a bit much (and a complex build).
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