I think 3pin should be sufficient (unless you're building dual PSU's, one for each board).
You take the +/-/COM through the 3 pins, and then wire in parallel in the Emerald box.
If 3-pin, you could use standard XLR. Female at the PSU output and Male at the Emerald input.
Something like this: https://www.neutrik.com/en/neutrik/products/xlr-connectors/xlr-chassis-connectors/dlx-series?c=audio
If you want a different connector type, then I like the Switchcraft Mini-Con-X.
Switchcraft : Product Summary
Mouser carries both lines
P.S. The connector you linked looks fine too... just adding these options if you want to save on shipping.
You take the +/-/COM through the 3 pins, and then wire in parallel in the Emerald box.
If 3-pin, you could use standard XLR. Female at the PSU output and Male at the Emerald input.
Something like this: https://www.neutrik.com/en/neutrik/products/xlr-connectors/xlr-chassis-connectors/dlx-series?c=audio
If you want a different connector type, then I like the Switchcraft Mini-Con-X.
Switchcraft : Product Summary
Mouser carries both lines
P.S. The connector you linked looks fine too... just adding these options if you want to save on shipping.
Thank you itsikhefez! Much appreciated. I'm going with Neutrik 3-pin XLR.
I'll post more when everything arrives.
I'll post more when everything arrives.
Thanks again itsikhefez. Wow, that is a great looking build! Very nice.
I'm going the "budget" route with Hammond aluminum chassis. Total cost so far for everything needed is about $280.
My turntable has been in storage for a while. One reason being that I need a new D42 stylus for my very old Goldring 1042. Or, just try something altogether different. Building this preamp will motivate me to get everything set back up again.
I'm going the "budget" route with Hammond aluminum chassis. Total cost so far for everything needed is about $280.
My turntable has been in storage for a while. One reason being that I need a new D42 stylus for my very old Goldring 1042. Or, just try something altogether different. Building this preamp will motivate me to get everything set back up again.
I'm trying to buy standard circular connectors for the DC umbilical and I have no idea what I need.
Thanks to everyone who replied to help David out.
Shopping at Mouser without part numbers can be overwhelming, I admit. The thing is the connector can be anything really, or nothing if you build everything into one chassis.
As noted in the construction guide, the usual choice is a 3-pin XLR, the kind you see on balanced interconnects or professional mic cable. These are widely available from any number of brands, from Neutrik on down. Ebay is also good for sourcing this kind of hardware, since Mouser can be expensive.
Thanks Richard. Yes, I went with Neutrik chassis-mount 3-pin XLR jacks.
I agree about Mouser being a challenge. So many of their listings do not use actual photos, but "stock" images. Unless I know exactly what I want, I need to see the actual item.
Thanks, David
I agree about Mouser being a challenge. So many of their listings do not use actual photos, but "stock" images. Unless I know exactly what I want, I need to see the actual item.
Thanks, David
Those seem fine. However they are AC rated and you are dealing with DC in the umbilical.
That said, I'd feel perfectly comfortable using those.
That said, I'd feel perfectly comfortable using those.
Quick question on the transformer connection (using the TRIAD suggested on BOM).
Do I just blatantly ignore the intended use and run each secondary to their own bridge, or do I jumper them - potentially just running all wires to one bridge, then to the other from there? What would be best?
Do I just blatantly ignore the intended use and run each secondary to their own bridge, or do I jumper them - potentially just running all wires to one bridge, then to the other from there? What would be best?
Attachments
Do I just blatantly ignore the intended use and run each secondary to their own bridge -
Yes. 🙂
If you prefer to wire up both secondaries to a single bridge (and of course you are welcome to do that) then you'd connect the secondaries in series and connect the center tap to COM. The top and bottom of the secondary winding connect to "~" on the bridge.
Great, thanks for clarifying! I already have 2 bridges fitted in the cabinet, so no reason not to utilise both of them 🙂
btw I confirmed with Triad that this connection is safe. While technically "separate" the two windings are tied through the diodes so there is only ~1V between then.
So I finally got the Emerald finished a few hours ago.
And now we're listening with renewed enjoyment of our records. I guess we will sit here until late in the evening.
We're experiencing great frequency response. Especially low ends are much more present.
Separation is also heaps better.
Unfortunately we didn't get our GyroDec/Quintet Black combo yet. But we feel the RIAA is ready for it.
Thanks for sharing a great sounding design.
And now we're listening with renewed enjoyment of our records. I guess we will sit here until late in the evening.
We're experiencing great frequency response. Especially low ends are much more present.
Separation is also heaps better.
Unfortunately we didn't get our GyroDec/Quintet Black combo yet. But we feel the RIAA is ready for it.
Thanks for sharing a great sounding design.
Thanks for sharing your initial impressions. Please leave the newly finished unit powered up for a few days to allow the capacitors to break in. The sound will change quite a bit.
What enclosure
What are the enclosures you have used? Looks really great!
Great! Quick note is that you can save on connectors if you hard-wire on the PSU side and use a cable "cinch".
Picture attached
What are the enclosures you have used? Looks really great!
Thank you!!
I use Hammond 1455 series for the PSU.
The amp itself is in a custom chassis by Landfall Systems (BTW, those photos were from a Pearl build, not Emerald, but its the same idea).
I've also had success using the Par-metal 12x8x2 with panels from Front Panel Express.
These aren't cheap approaches, but end up really nice.
I use Hammond 1455 series for the PSU.
The amp itself is in a custom chassis by Landfall Systems (BTW, those photos were from a Pearl build, not Emerald, but its the same idea).
I've also had success using the Par-metal 12x8x2 with panels from Front Panel Express.
These aren't cheap approaches, but end up really nice.
Looks awesome! But I guess a custom chassi + europe shipping would be a bit steep.
Haven’t decided if I should go for a separate or single chassi yet. But I’m in no rush, still waiting for the boards to arrive.
Haven’t decided if I should go for a separate or single chassi yet. But I’m in no rush, still waiting for the boards to arrive.
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