I think 3pin should be sufficient (unless you're building dual PSU's, one for each board).
You take the +/-/COM through the 3 pins, and then wire in parallel in the Emerald box.
If 3-pin, you could use standard XLR. Female at the PSU output and Male at the Emerald input.
Something like this: https://www.neutrik.com/en/neutrik/products/xlr-connectors/xlr-chassis-connectors/dlx-series?c=audio
If you want a different connector type, then I like the Switchcraft Mini-Con-X.
Switchcraft : Product Summary
Mouser carries both lines
P.S. The connector you linked looks fine too... just adding these options if you want to save on shipping.
You take the +/-/COM through the 3 pins, and then wire in parallel in the Emerald box.
If 3-pin, you could use standard XLR. Female at the PSU output and Male at the Emerald input.
Something like this: https://www.neutrik.com/en/neutrik/products/xlr-connectors/xlr-chassis-connectors/dlx-series?c=audio
If you want a different connector type, then I like the Switchcraft Mini-Con-X.
Switchcraft : Product Summary
Mouser carries both lines
P.S. The connector you linked looks fine too... just adding these options if you want to save on shipping.
Thanks again itsikhefez. Wow, that is a great looking build! Very nice.
I'm going the "budget" route with Hammond aluminum chassis. Total cost so far for everything needed is about $280.
My turntable has been in storage for a while. One reason being that I need a new D42 stylus for my very old Goldring 1042. Or, just try something altogether different. Building this preamp will motivate me to get everything set back up again.
I'm going the "budget" route with Hammond aluminum chassis. Total cost so far for everything needed is about $280.
My turntable has been in storage for a while. One reason being that I need a new D42 stylus for my very old Goldring 1042. Or, just try something altogether different. Building this preamp will motivate me to get everything set back up again.
Thanks to everyone who replied to help David out.
Shopping at Mouser without part numbers can be overwhelming, I admit. The thing is the connector can be anything really, or nothing if you build everything into one chassis.
As noted in the construction guide, the usual choice is a 3-pin XLR, the kind you see on balanced interconnects or professional mic cable. These are widely available from any number of brands, from Neutrik on down. Ebay is also good for sourcing this kind of hardware, since Mouser can be expensive.
Quick question on the transformer connection (using the TRIAD suggested on BOM).
Do I just blatantly ignore the intended use and run each secondary to their own bridge, or do I jumper them - potentially just running all wires to one bridge, then to the other from there? What would be best?
Do I just blatantly ignore the intended use and run each secondary to their own bridge, or do I jumper them - potentially just running all wires to one bridge, then to the other from there? What would be best?
Attachments
Yes.
If you prefer to wire up both secondaries to a single bridge (and of course you are welcome to do that) then you'd connect the secondaries in series and connect the center tap to COM. The top and bottom of the secondary winding connect to "~" on the bridge.
So I finally got the Emerald finished a few hours ago.
And now we're listening with renewed enjoyment of our records. I guess we will sit here until late in the evening.
We're experiencing great frequency response. Especially low ends are much more present.
Separation is also heaps better.
Unfortunately we didn't get our GyroDec/Quintet Black combo yet. But we feel the RIAA is ready for it.
Thanks for sharing a great sounding design.
And now we're listening with renewed enjoyment of our records. I guess we will sit here until late in the evening.
We're experiencing great frequency response. Especially low ends are much more present.
Separation is also heaps better.
Unfortunately we didn't get our GyroDec/Quintet Black combo yet. But we feel the RIAA is ready for it.
Thanks for sharing a great sounding design.
Thank you!!
I use Hammond 1455 series for the PSU.
The amp itself is in a custom chassis by Landfall Systems (BTW, those photos were from a Pearl build, not Emerald, but its the same idea).
I've also had success using the Par-metal 12x8x2 with panels from Front Panel Express.
These aren't cheap approaches, but end up really nice.
I use Hammond 1455 series for the PSU.
The amp itself is in a custom chassis by Landfall Systems (BTW, those photos were from a Pearl build, not Emerald, but its the same idea).
I've also had success using the Par-metal 12x8x2 with panels from Front Panel Express.
These aren't cheap approaches, but end up really nice.
