I am trying to replace the power connector for something better (at least that is what I think, see picture below) on my clone NHB-108. Seemed like an easy swap, but unfortunately it was not that easy: the existing terminals/spades do not seem to want to be removed. I am probably missing something here, but how do I remove these undamaged from the exisiting connector?
Also, would these fit the new connector anyway?
Also, would these fit the new connector anyway?
Never mind, I also replaced the internal power cables and spades. For those who might be interested and see how the power circuit looks like some pictures.
Still curious though, how can the spades be removed from the old connector?
Still curious though, how can the spades be removed from the old connector?
Yes, it is certainly worth it in my opinion. Sounds amazing, and build quality is very good as well. See YouTube for some reviews, it also measures really well.
I can confirm, I bought it some months ago and after a long break-in period it sounds really really good. Normally I like to build stuff myself so I can adjust the sound exactly the way I want it to be, but with this amp I am absolutely happy as it is, no desire to tweak something.
As already mentioned the build quality is very good, massive case, silent 800W transformer and clean PCBs.
Just running a little bit hot, maybe in summer I have to lift the lid a little bit for ventilation.
As already mentioned the build quality is very good, massive case, silent 800W transformer and clean PCBs.
Just running a little bit hot, maybe in summer I have to lift the lid a little bit for ventilation.
I also liked it very much right out of the box. And it gets even better in time. I really like to tweak, so made some that improved the sound I think. But always hard to tell for sure, since I cannot A/B test these changes. Anyway, fun to do and still like it very much. If anyone is interested I can share some of the mods?
Please do so, I am also considering some small changes like replacing the speaker binding posts and RCA inputs. Probably changing the wires from power supply to amp boards with bigger diameter one, and trying out different input capacitors. Is it necessary? No, but just for the fun of it, and maybe it will sound a little better on top.
I cannot verify exactly what these connectors that are on the power inlet, but I can tell you that few designs are impossible to remove as compared to others! Interestingly, on a similar note, that almost every male connector on the other end of a power cord has a hole punched into it. I have heard that WAY back in the day, there was a small indentation in the AC socket in the wall itself to hold on to that little hole. Well, maybe that idea caught on in this connector design as well. Just my thoughts, but dam, there really is no need for this unless maybe it was used in an environment that had a lot of vibration. I am going to blame this on poor choice for the application due to ignorance of the different designs and their applications. Kind of reminds me of the same logic as 'oil is oil, water is water, air is air' type of reasoning.
I will go so far as to mention what I consider when looking at the screw down connectors used on circuit boards. All in all, they have merit, but I tend to want to use a bit of Loc-tite on the screws holding the wires. This goes hand in hand with the 'feel' of the tightness of the connection. Don't crush it, connect it, and yes, you usually can get just a bit more applied pressure when the wire is slightly compressed. A use of judgement is required here.
I will go so far as to mention what I consider when looking at the screw down connectors used on circuit boards. All in all, they have merit, but I tend to want to use a bit of Loc-tite on the screws holding the wires. This goes hand in hand with the 'feel' of the tightness of the connection. Don't crush it, connect it, and yes, you usually can get just a bit more applied pressure when the wire is slightly compressed. A use of judgement is required here.
I think you will hear some benefits, and it is fun anyway.
Ok, first thing I did were the speaker posts. Easy to do, just unscrew and reconnect the cables.
Next step: replace speaker cable (I used mogami 3103). Just disconnect the current cables and crimp new connectors to the cable and reconnect using the screws/spades:
Next the power supply cables (see pictures above in second post).
Next add some bypass capacitors to the power supply board. I used NICHICON KZ MUSE HiFi Audio Capacitor 100V 220μF. Remove the two WIMA caps form the board, install the bypass caps on the top and the WIMAs on the bottom. See pictures:
And last but not least (most difficult one since I did want to remove the bottom print) the replacement of the RCA cables by better cables (MOGAMI NEGLEX W2534 Cable Micro 2 pairs 0.22mm² Ø6mm):
Have fun!
Ok, so we might be twins in thinking. I do much of what you have simply because it's my equipment, and I can. I strive to get my work to look as good as yours, but as you know all of this extra thinking takes patience, practice, and a certain gift that I wish that some dentists shared. Your work is very fine indeed.