manuals.
Peter,
For the manuals, you have to click on the link for the board you want.
the link for the manuals are buried inside.
Maybe I'll spruce up the web page a little to make things easier to find.
Here are the manuals you need. (These should keep you busy
for a little while)
apox-ir1 manual
apox-is2 manual
The SHM manual is not done yet.
I hope that helps.
-Craig
P.S. Please be very very careful with the SHM resistor placement.
The old APOX-1 spreadsheet uses the same value resistors
as the SHM, but the reference designators are different.
As poor Robert recently found out.
We'll release the SHM manual soon.
Peter,
For the manuals, you have to click on the link for the board you want.
the link for the manuals are buried inside.
Maybe I'll spruce up the web page a little to make things easier to find.
Here are the manuals you need. (These should keep you busy
for a little while)
apox-ir1 manual
apox-is2 manual
The SHM manual is not done yet.
I hope that helps.
-Craig
P.S. Please be very very careful with the SHM resistor placement.
The old APOX-1 spreadsheet uses the same value resistors
as the SHM, but the reference designators are different.
As poor Robert recently found out.
We'll release the SHM manual soon.
I've recently been working on the surround preamp--I'm getting mighty close to finishing it 🙂
While looking at the display in the dark at a distance, it seems a little difficult to read. I can barely read the display at distance greater than 3 or 4 feet.
After talking with Dale and Craig, I looked over the site at Optrex, and chose a green version that I ordered from Apollo ( http://apollodisplays.com/stock.php?partnum=C-51505NFQJ-LG-AF ).
You can see the green version here:
http://www.optrex.com/Products/PartDetail.asp?PartNumber=C-51505NFQJ-LG-AF
It has greater brightness and contrast than the blue module (although the blue does _look_ better). The reason green probably easier to see, is that this wavelength is much closer to the peak sensitivity of the human eye. My wife and I can easily see the green version at 10+ feet.
As Dale mentioned to me, you can slide the display module over the pins and not solder them (do solder the pins themselves to the main IR1 board). This allows you to change displays. The pin friction seems to make good contact on it own.
Regards, Robert
While looking at the display in the dark at a distance, it seems a little difficult to read. I can barely read the display at distance greater than 3 or 4 feet.
After talking with Dale and Craig, I looked over the site at Optrex, and chose a green version that I ordered from Apollo ( http://apollodisplays.com/stock.php?partnum=C-51505NFQJ-LG-AF ).
You can see the green version here:
http://www.optrex.com/Products/PartDetail.asp?PartNumber=C-51505NFQJ-LG-AF
It has greater brightness and contrast than the blue module (although the blue does _look_ better). The reason green probably easier to see, is that this wavelength is much closer to the peak sensitivity of the human eye. My wife and I can easily see the green version at 10+ feet.
As Dale mentioned to me, you can slide the display module over the pins and not solder them (do solder the pins themselves to the main IR1 board). This allows you to change displays. The pin friction seems to make good contact on it own.
Regards, Robert
SHM Assembly instructions posted
Hello all,
The
APOX-SHM Assembly Instructions
have now been posted.
Thanks,
Craig Beiferman
Hello all,
The
APOX-SHM Assembly Instructions
have now been posted.
Thanks,
Craig Beiferman
Hi Peter,
Petter may disagree, but it should not be required. Also, if you are not tying your +5V ground to the analog ground, FB1 is not needed either.
The 100uF caps this is supplied should be sufficient to bypass the 5V supply when switching relays.
Dale
Petter may disagree, but it should not be required. Also, if you are not tying your +5V ground to the analog ground, FB1 is not needed either.
The 100uF caps this is supplied should be sufficient to bypass the 5V supply when switching relays.
Dale
Build status
Has anyone finished building the kits yet?
Just curious to see some new photos of what people are doing?
Thanks,
Craig Beiferman
Has anyone finished building the kits yet?
Just curious to see some new photos of what people are doing?
Thanks,
Craig Beiferman
I'll get some photos up soon. I've installed 32 WBT RCAs, 8 XLR in, 6 XLR out. This was a lot of hole drilling.
I don't have all my channels working yet, but I hooked up 4 of the 6 temporarily--all s.e.--with my two APOX-2s, while waiting for the SHMs.
I used L/R front, center and one rear. I listened to Norah Jones' SACD in multichannel. Not so much coming from the rear, but the fronts. Oh, my: it sounded sooooo good. 🙂
I don't have all my channels working yet, but I hooked up 4 of the 6 temporarily--all s.e.--with my two APOX-2s, while waiting for the SHMs.
I used L/R front, center and one rear. I listened to Norah Jones' SACD in multichannel. Not so much coming from the rear, but the fronts. Oh, my: it sounded sooooo good. 🙂
APOX-IS1 rev. 2 released
Hello everyone,
Remember the problem with the APOX-IS1 rev. 1 which had the wrong sex connectors (input and ouputs were swapped).
Well I have corrected this situation.
Announcing the APOX-IS1 REV. 2
with the proper XLR connectors.
The new boards should arrive in about 1.5 weeks.
I'll post the new schematic in a few minutes.
Thanks,
Craig Beiferman
Hello everyone,
Remember the problem with the APOX-IS1 rev. 1 which had the wrong sex connectors (input and ouputs were swapped).
Well I have corrected this situation.
Announcing the APOX-IS1 REV. 2
with the proper XLR connectors.
The new boards should arrive in about 1.5 weeks.
I'll post the new schematic in a few minutes.
Thanks,
Craig Beiferman
schematics posted
Here is a link to the schematics
apox-is1 rev.2 schematics
The rev. 2 schematics might help the rev. 1 users a little.
It has alot more notes on proper usage of the board.
and the only actual change is the sex of the connectors.
-Craig
Here is a link to the schematics
apox-is1 rev.2 schematics
The rev. 2 schematics might help the rev. 1 users a little.
It has alot more notes on proper usage of the board.
and the only actual change is the sex of the connectors.
-Craig
Re: Build status
Hey Craig and Dale,
Actually, I still need to get a custom front panel cut out
My weekends have been really busy with non-audio stuff, and I've been very busy at work.
I met someone that the company I work for uses to have machining done, and he showed me this really nice black acrylic material that he will cut to make my front panel.
To do this correctly, what is the exact dimensions for the LCD hole? (I will have the LCD and encoders mounted on the IR board)
I guess this is the hardest part of the kit, and I must finish it. It just that is works so well right now and hasn't gotten in the way of the sound. Still, a finished unit is best! Hopefully it'll all be done in a week or two.
I hope everyone is enjoying their APOX as much as I am.
BTW, I am now using a battery powered DAC, and there is no hum or noise, even at full volume!
-Vinnie
dipchip said:
Hey Craig and Dale,
Actually, I still need to get a custom front panel cut out
My weekends have been really busy with non-audio stuff, and I've been very busy at work.
I met someone that the company I work for uses to have machining done, and he showed me this really nice black acrylic material that he will cut to make my front panel.
To do this correctly, what is the exact dimensions for the LCD hole? (I will have the LCD and encoders mounted on the IR board)
I guess this is the hardest part of the kit, and I must finish it. It just that is works so well right now and hasn't gotten in the way of the sound. Still, a finished unit is best! Hopefully it'll all be done in a week or two.
I hope everyone is enjoying their APOX as much as I am.
BTW, I am now using a battery powered DAC, and there is no hum or noise, even at full volume!
-Vinnie
front panel cutouts
Vinnie,
If you are going to cut out the front panel.
you need a BEZEL for the LCD. Or you could add in a piece of glass yourself.
Next, you going to ask me which BEZEL to use!
But I'm not sure yet.
Dale had found some Bezels we could use, but I don't know if he still has the part number. Dale??
I also think Dale posted the dimensions.
here
I can't wait to see what your unit looks like all finished.
-Craig
Vinnie,
If you are going to cut out the front panel.
you need a BEZEL for the LCD. Or you could add in a piece of glass yourself.
Next, you going to ask me which BEZEL to use!
But I'm not sure yet.
Dale had found some Bezels we could use, but I don't know if he still has the part number. Dale??
I also think Dale posted the dimensions.
here
I can't wait to see what your unit looks like all finished.
-Craig
Re: front panel cutouts
Which BEZEL do I use? 😀
Sorry, I had to let that out!
When you say "If you are going to cut out the front panel",
isn't this the only way to do it? Is everyone looking for a bezel, or is there an easier way to mount the LCD?
I really can't wait to have this completed.
Thanks for your help,
Vinnie
dipchip said:
Which BEZEL do I use? 😀
Sorry, I had to let that out!
When you say "If you are going to cut out the front panel",
isn't this the only way to do it? Is everyone looking for a bezel, or is there an easier way to mount the LCD?
I really can't wait to have this completed.
Thanks for your help,
Vinnie
Vinnie,
In an earlier post a few pages back, I showed an image of a router template I made to cut a front hole in my chassis. Such a template could also be cut for a facade-style of front panel.
The router can cut it out of acrylic or aluminum. I used no bezel but simply mounted the entire IR1 off of 1/2" stand-offs as described in the IR1 assembly manual.
I used a 3 mm hole for the LED and about a 5 mm hole for the IR sensor. These were, as I recall about 20 mm to the right of the left selector knob and 10 mm from one another (one 5 mm about the center line and the other 5 mm below).
Regards, Robert
In an earlier post a few pages back, I showed an image of a router template I made to cut a front hole in my chassis. Such a template could also be cut for a facade-style of front panel.
The router can cut it out of acrylic or aluminum. I used no bezel but simply mounted the entire IR1 off of 1/2" stand-offs as described in the IR1 assembly manual.
I used a 3 mm hole for the LED and about a 5 mm hole for the IR sensor. These were, as I recall about 20 mm to the right of the left selector knob and 10 mm from one another (one 5 mm about the center line and the other 5 mm below).
Regards, Robert
Member
Joined 2002
I got all the autocad drawings ready for the whole enclosure. Including a 3/8 frontpanel. If Dale ever finishes his deck we could get it done.
Maybe I should put him under pressure by telling him I am moving to NJ in october, new jobs for the whole family, lots of money, I'll quit diy and start to buy Nelson's stuff. 😉
Maybe I should put him under pressure by telling him I am moving to NJ in october, new jobs for the whole family, lots of money, I'll quit diy and start to buy Nelson's stuff. 😉
Dale,
Software feature request:
1. when mute is activated can it carry across all inputs? that is, if APOX is muted, and input selection is changed, mute still applies.
2. when mute is un-muted, can it ramp up to previous volume setting rather than return to previous setting? This would allow a softer return to previous levels rather than just popping back to a possibly loud volume.
The second feature would be quite nice.
Regards, Robert
Software feature request:
1. when mute is activated can it carry across all inputs? that is, if APOX is muted, and input selection is changed, mute still applies.
2. when mute is un-muted, can it ramp up to previous volume setting rather than return to previous setting? This would allow a softer return to previous levels rather than just popping back to a possibly loud volume.
The second feature would be quite nice.
Regards, Robert
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