I think I have sent you a reply by e-mail?
The HWMute function has nothing to do with this. You can connect an extra button for muting. The "Eject" button shown on the drawing will work as a mute button. The diode is a standard signal type like an 1N4148.
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
Attachments
I measured the crosstalk some years ago, and it was very low (don't remember the numbers). But there will be some capacitive coupling through the relays. Is the sound you're hearing thin sounding (no bass)? It so, it is probably capacitive coupling. I have just tested my own preamp. I have to turn the volume all the way up to hear anything when I switch to a "neighbouring" input.
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
Looks like I haven't posted a new products update in a while... Here is a list of the latest additions.
TPower1: A small PCL86 PP tube poweramp. The output power is approx. 8W per channel in tetrode mode. The amp can be connected in UL and triode mode also.
TPre1: A tube preamp - phono stage and line stage included. This can be supplied either as parts for hardwiring or with PCBs (as usual 😉). Tubes used are 6N2P-EV in the input stage and 6N1P-EV in the following stages.
TCascode and TGain1: Boards that can be used for various tube stages. TCascode is for cascode stages obviously. TGain1 can be used for grounded cathode, cathode follower and plate follower circuits. The boards are designed for the standard ECC8x and 6NxP dual triodes. These boards are used for the preamp mentioned above.
BalDrv: A small board with a DRV134 and an XLR connector. Used for adding a balanced output to an unbalanced source.
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
TPower1: A small PCL86 PP tube poweramp. The output power is approx. 8W per channel in tetrode mode. The amp can be connected in UL and triode mode also.
TPre1: A tube preamp - phono stage and line stage included. This can be supplied either as parts for hardwiring or with PCBs (as usual 😉). Tubes used are 6N2P-EV in the input stage and 6N1P-EV in the following stages.
TCascode and TGain1: Boards that can be used for various tube stages. TCascode is for cascode stages obviously. TGain1 can be used for grounded cathode, cathode follower and plate follower circuits. The boards are designed for the standard ECC8x and 6NxP dual triodes. These boards are used for the preamp mentioned above.
BalDrv: A small board with a DRV134 and an XLR connector. Used for adding a balanced output to an unbalanced source.
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
Hi Mikkel.
From what you describe it does indeed seem to be capacitive coupling. I suppose taking the input ground via the Inut1 board isn't going to make any difference. This isn't a major issue, just a minor niggle.
I'll look into ways to overcome this if its possible.
Nice to hear from you.
I am subscribed - but I didn't get any notifications until now when you posted 🙂
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
Hardwired high voltage relays? 😉
If you're sure your signal sources don't mind having their outputs shorted, you can replace the 100k resistors with wire links. That will shut them up... Many signal sources have 100-600R resistors in series with their outputs, so shorting the output is no problem. But there may be exceptions...
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
DC in the path? Connected there are: my DAC (with trannies output, so no DC), a couple of CD reader, IPOD and so on, and the click is on every step.
Why didn't you state on your site that you controller can not full muting? Have you even seen a volume controller that can not reach volume zero?
Why dind't you reply to my mails? I have payed money for your volume control pal...
Last edited:
Yes, there's sometimes a DC off-set on the output of signal sources. This causes clicks when the DC is connected/disconnected by an attenuator.
You can reach -63dB, if the attenuator is connected and loaded correctly. That is volume zero in my system. With a 2V input signal you get about 1mV out at -63dB. If the loading is not correct, you don't get the -63dBs.
Which preamp do you have connected to the output of the attenuator? Do you have a schematic?
Sorry. I had work problems (real work - not audio) that left me no time to even read e-mail. I have to pay the rent every month no matter how many (or few) of my customers pay me what they owe...
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
No idea if an Oppo has a DC-offset on the output. Do you have a link to the schematic of your preamp? I find Broskie's site a bit confusing 😉
If I have the parts, I could try to duplicate the problem...
You shouldn't get 0 volume. But if you get -63dB, that should be very close to 0, unless you have huge amps and horn speakers 🙂
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
Mikkel,
You have always been a good guy, IMO.
at -63dB it should be 0 , zero, rein, nada.
I have 6.5" midwoofers no horns and a very old Haffler DH200 amp. (100W)
-63 is louder than a whisper, if I want silence I have to mute it.
I'm OK with the volume not being zero at -63, but the clicks embarrass the hell out of me. That's why I did not take it to "The Burning Amp 3" this year.
I'll try to find out where the DC is coming from. I'll let you know if I find anything out.
I like you Mikkel, check back here more often please.
Ron
You have always been a good guy, IMO.
at -63dB it should be 0 , zero, rein, nada.
I have 6.5" midwoofers no horns and a very old Haffler DH200 amp. (100W)
-63 is louder than a whisper, if I want silence I have to mute it.
I'm OK with the volume not being zero at -63, but the clicks embarrass the hell out of me. That's why I did not take it to "The Burning Amp 3" this year.
I'll try to find out where the DC is coming from. I'll let you know if I find anything out.
I like you Mikkel, check back here more often please.
Ron
Mikkel, I also have the Broskie's Aikido with 4XE80CC, and my DAC has transformers output (give a look to the post here "experience with this dac" with galvanic isolation primary/secondary and I can assure you there's zero DC.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
-63 db is not volume zero Mikkel. I loaded the controller exactly as you say in your instructions, and tried in many other ways, but no way to reach volume zero as normally should be for a volume control.
My question now is: how can we arrange to fix these two problems?
Last edited:
It could be a different problem that's causing the clicks. Piero has no DC, and still get clicks.
The problem is that none of my amps produce this problem, so it's a bit hard to find... I have found a circuit for a 9-pin Aikido, so I will try building that on one of Geek's experimenter boards. I probably won't have time until the weekend.
I do plan to!
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
The muting problem could be fixed with a muting relay. But adding an extra relay is not a great idea unless absolutely necessary... One solution if you need a larger range than 63dB could be 1.25dB or 1.5dB steps for a 79 or 95dB range.
The clicks is harder to solve. I'll try building an 8FQ7 Aikido to see if I get clicks also. I don't think different relays will solve the problem.
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen