Hello Mikkel !
So how was the Kløften Festival ?
... Welldone !
Thanks for the reply ... so i'll surely choose the easyer way with connecting the ChipVol1's in parallel to the Input 2.
There's again an open question:
I quote it from your last email ...
Is it now only the connection "between" the two ChipVol1's of the third wire of the ribbon cable wich must be cut off ? Or is it the whole wire "3" which must be removed ? (I ask this because I see that Pin 3 on the Input2 Schematic has "Now connect", but in the ChipVol1 Schematic there is a connection between PIN 3 to VCC via PIN7 of R1. Does your "between" opines only that VCC's do not get shortet ?
The other thing is: If i install PSU of 5VDC on the Input2 the ChipVol's will be fed "in serial" thru PIN1 with the 5VDC ... correct ?
10 mA per ChipVol right ? And how much is it when the Input2 demands current ? 500mA per Output ? I'd'like to use the LT1763 instead of the 7805 on the Input2 board, due better noise ...
Thanks in advance for any help ...
Hilsner 🙂
artQuake
So how was the Kløften Festival ?



Thanks for the reply ... so i'll surely choose the easyer way with connecting the ChipVol1's in parallel to the Input 2.
There's again an open question:
I quote it from your last email ...
and from your last post this statement:You can also connect more than one attenuator board (for balanced use) in parallel. Just cut wire 3 between two ChipVol1 boards (that is the not-used serial out pin)
If you connect two ChipVol1 boards in parallel, you have to cut the third wire between the two boards. Otherwise you will connect two output pins, and destroy the PGA chips
Is it now only the connection "between" the two ChipVol1's of the third wire of the ribbon cable wich must be cut off ? Or is it the whole wire "3" which must be removed ? (I ask this because I see that Pin 3 on the Input2 Schematic has "Now connect", but in the ChipVol1 Schematic there is a connection between PIN 3 to VCC via PIN7 of R1. Does your "between" opines only that VCC's do not get shortet ?
The other thing is: If i install PSU of 5VDC on the Input2 the ChipVol's will be fed "in serial" thru PIN1 with the 5VDC ... correct ?
10 mA per ChipVol right ? And how much is it when the Input2 demands current ? 500mA per Output ? I'd'like to use the LT1763 instead of the 7805 on the Input2 board, due better noise ...
Thanks in advance for any help ...
Hilsner 🙂
artQuake
artquake said:So how was the Kløften Festival ?![]()
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...
Great! As usual 🙂
There's again an open question:
Is it now only the connection "between" the two ChipVol1's of the third wire of the ribbon cable wich must be cut off ? Or is it the whole wire "3" which must be removed ?
You just break the connection between the two ChipVol1 boards.
(I ask this because I see that Pin 3 on the Input2 Schematic has "Now connect", but in the ChipVol1 Schematic there is a connection between PIN 3 to VCC via PIN7 of R1. Does your "between" opines only that VCC's do not get shortet ?
If you look a little closer, you will see that pin 3 is also connected to the SDO pin of the PGA chip. It's those output pins that shouldn't be connected.
The other thing is: If i install PSU of 5VDC on the Input2 the ChipVol's will be fed "in serial" thru PIN1 with the 5VDC ... correct ?
If you mean pin 1 of JP8, then yes.
10 mA per ChipVol right ? And how much is it when the Input2 demands current ? 500mA per Output ? I'd'like to use the LT1763 instead of the 7805 on the Input2 board, due better noise ...
500mA should be enough for everything, so one LT1763 should be able to handle the load.
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
mcs said:
I can't say for sure - I have never tried them. The encoders I supply are from the STEC16 series. But it looks like the STEC12 (available from Reichelt) is similar to the STEC16.
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
Thanks, i will try it, because they have a "push" function. If it fails the i use the STEC16.
Hello Mikkel,
Thank you for the informations ... i got the combination of ChipVol1's, Input2, Control2 running well. 😛
Another Issue is the Remote1 Kit: I assembled it and made testing as written on Page 9 of the manual.
With 100R between Pin10/17 and Pin 10/16 the motorpot turns well (both sides and correct).
Namely i did not install any relays to the Mute and Power Pins but i measured the Voltage when pressing the toggle switch on the power switch connector. That worked well and showed the VCC according to expectation.
After installing U1 and U4 the motorpot did not react to the remote control (SRU ...) there was no voltage on Motorpot pins when pressing the remote, even the Relay Pins do not change their value when pressing for example Power on ....
I tryed different RC5 codes too but it still does not work ... is there maybee something wrong with the μC ... 😕
Thanks in adveance for your answer
best regards
artQuake
Thank you for the informations ... i got the combination of ChipVol1's, Input2, Control2 running well. 😛
Another Issue is the Remote1 Kit: I assembled it and made testing as written on Page 9 of the manual.
With 100R between Pin10/17 and Pin 10/16 the motorpot turns well (both sides and correct).
Namely i did not install any relays to the Mute and Power Pins but i measured the Voltage when pressing the toggle switch on the power switch connector. That worked well and showed the VCC according to expectation.
After installing U1 and U4 the motorpot did not react to the remote control (SRU ...) there was no voltage on Motorpot pins when pressing the remote, even the Relay Pins do not change their value when pressing for example Power on ....
I tryed different RC5 codes too but it still does not work ... is there maybee something wrong with the μC ... 😕
Thanks in adveance for your answer
best regards
artQuake
mcs said:So you need balanced and four channels?
For the volume control part you could use two RelVol3 boards or four ChipVol1 boards. To control it you could use the VolControl1-3.
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
Hi,
I am close to pass my order, but for some components i don't know what to choose please help 😉
Control2 but with which front panel ?
2 x RelVol3 but how to choose the resistors ?
Power supply wich one ( for 8 channel maybe) ?
Screen LCD16x2BB
Remote RC400
Thanks by advance
Anthony
artquake said:Thank you for the informations ... i got the combination of ChipVol1's, Input2, Control2 running well. 😛
Another Issue is the Remote1 Kit: I assembled it and made testing as written on Page 9 of the manual.
With 100R between Pin10/17 and Pin 10/16 the motorpot turns well (both sides and correct).
Namely i did not install any relays to the Mute and Power Pins but i measured the Voltage when pressing the toggle switch on the power switch connector. That worked well and showed the VCC according to expectation.
Not quite sure what you mean here. The voltage on the relay headers shouldn't change when you press the power switch with the µc not installed.
After installing U1 and U4 the motorpot did not react to the remote control (SRU ...) there was no voltage on Motorpot pins when pressing the remote, even the Relay Pins do not change their value when pressing for example Power on ....
The mute relay should switch on for some seconds when you connect the power. Does it switch off, or does it just stay on? If it stays on, the µc is probably bad.
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
dede said:Control2 but with which front panel ?
If you only need volume control, and no input selector, you may as well choose the cheaper type 2.
2 x RelVol3 but how to choose the resistors ?
Depends what your signal source is designed to drive. 10k should probably be fine.
Power supply wich one ( for 8 channel maybe) ?
Just use something like a 78T05 regulator (5V 3A) on a heat sink.
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
I have just had time to finish a new product. An LM4780 power amp. I can be configured for stereo, bridged or parallel operation. The output power is up to 2*75W or 140W in parallel/bridge mode according to the National datasheet. I have only tested up to 66W in stereo and 58W in bridge mode so far. The heatsink got quite hot at those power levels after some minutes 🙂
The bridged mode uses a balanced line driver chip instead of the bridge circuit shown in the datasheet. The datasheet circuit looks too much like a cheap hack to me...
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
The bridged mode uses a balanced line driver chip instead of the bridge circuit shown in the datasheet. The datasheet circuit looks too much like a cheap hack to me...

Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
mcs said:
If you only need volume control, and no input selector, you may as well choose the cheaper type 2.
Depends what your signal source is designed to drive. 10k should probably be fine.
Just use something like a 78T05 regulator (5V 3A) on a heat sink.
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
My soundcard (sources) got an outpout impedance of 110 ohms, and my power amplifier got an input impedance of 20k, is there a formula to know ?
Thx
Anthony
dede said:My soundcard (sources) got an outpout impedance of 110 ohms, and my power amplifier got an input impedance of 20k, is there a formula to know ?
What load your sound card "likes" is hard to say, but if it has an op-amp output stage everything from 1k and up should work fine. The input impedance of your power amp is the maximum value you can use for an attenuator like this. I would probably go with 10k. It's high enough for the sound card, and lower than 20k, so it will work correctly even if the input impedance of your power amp is a bit less than 20k.
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
dede said:Does the 78xxPSU1 on 5v could match my need ?
That is a 115/230V power supply. Don't you need 12V DC in?
If you do, you could order a 78xxPSU2. I can supply you a 78S or 78T regulator instead of the standard type. That should be able to supply enough power with a heatsink.
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
mcs said:
That is a 115/230V power supply. Don't you need 12V DC in?
I don't think so, 230 v AC looks good to me 😉
Thx
dede said:I don't think so, 230 v AC looks good to me 😉
Sorry, mixup. The 78xxPSU1 should just be enough for 2*RelVol3 and a Control2.
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
Is it possibe to add a second supply in the futur if i wixh to add more channel? Or do you have a larger psu availlable ?
Thx
Anthony
Thx
Anthony
Yes it may be confusing ... When i tested the relay headers after the pre Tests (by using tapper switch), the µc was installed. That was all i could test as it does not react to remote control.mcs said:Not quite sure what you mean here. The voltage on the relay headers shouldn't change when you press the power switch with the µc not installed.
I will test this in the evening ...mcs said:The mute relay should switch on for some seconds when you connect the power. Does it switch off, or does it just stay on? If it stays on, the µc is probably bad.
Thanks so far
best regards
artQuake
Hello Mikkel,
here the facts, initially no jumpers mounted ...
When powering on the remote1
1.) µc not installed:
Mute Pins - continuous 5VDC
Power Pins - continous 5VDC
2.) µc installed:
Mute Pins - continous 5VDC for 10 seconds and then falling to continous ~ 2Volts
Power Pins - continous 5VDC
When pressing the power toggle switch the Power Pins switching on/off, so that works too.
Based on your statement it seems that then the µc is ok.
But what can be wrong else then ? IR-receiver ? Quarz ?
Is it possible that the circuit needs the relays beeing connected that the IR works ? I can't imagine that, but who knows ...
Thanks in advance for some help
best regards
artQuake
here the facts, initially no jumpers mounted ...
When powering on the remote1
1.) µc not installed:
Mute Pins - continuous 5VDC
Power Pins - continous 5VDC
2.) µc installed:
Mute Pins - continous 5VDC for 10 seconds and then falling to continous ~ 2Volts
Power Pins - continous 5VDC
When pressing the power toggle switch the Power Pins switching on/off, so that works too.
Based on your statement it seems that then the µc is ok.
But what can be wrong else then ? IR-receiver ? Quarz ?
Is it possible that the circuit needs the relays beeing connected that the IR works ? I can't imagine that, but who knows ...
Thanks in advance for some help
best regards
artQuake
dede said:Is it possibe to add a second supply in the futur if i wixh to add more channel? Or do you have a larger psu availlable ?
If you use the 78xxPSU2 with a 9V/1A or the TR-S4943 transformer, you will have more headroom. The 78xxPSU1 will supply only about 600mA.
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
Hi,
So at the end:
Control2 but with C2Panel2 front panel
2 x RelVol3 with for set of 10k resistors
78xxPSU2 @ 9v
Screen LCD16x2BB
Remote RC400
Anything missing ?
Thanks you so much for your time 🙂
Regards
Anthony
So at the end:
Control2 but with C2Panel2 front panel
2 x RelVol3 with for set of 10k resistors
78xxPSU2 @ 9v
Screen LCD16x2BB
Remote RC400
Anything missing ?
Thanks you so much for your time 🙂
Regards
Anthony
artquake said:Based on your statement it seems that then the µc is ok.
But what can be wrong else then ? IR-receiver ? Quarz ?
It could be the IR receiver. But it could be the remote also. I have heard from one customer so far that had to use the code search function to get the Philips remote to work. Could you try that, or do you have another remote with Philips TV support you can try?
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
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