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Remote control kits

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#341
Hello Mikkel !

So how was the Kløften Festival ? :eguitar: :drunk: :cheers: ... Welldone !

Thanks for the reply ... so i'll surely choose the easyer way with connecting the ChipVol1's in parallel to the Input 2.

There's again an open question:
I quote it from your last email ...
You can also connect more than one attenuator board (for balanced use) in parallel. Just cut wire 3 between two ChipVol1 boards (that is the not-used serial out pin)
Click to expand...
and from your last post this statement:
If you connect two ChipVol1 boards in parallel, you have to cut the third wire between the two boards. Otherwise you will connect two output pins, and destroy the PGA chips
Click to expand...

Is it now only the connection "between" the two ChipVol1's of the third wire of the ribbon cable wich must be cut off ? Or is it the whole wire "3" which must be removed ? (I ask this because I see that Pin 3 on the Input2 Schematic has "Now connect", but in the ChipVol1 Schematic there is a connection between PIN 3 to VCC via PIN7 of R1. Does your "between" opines only that VCC's do not get shortet ?

The other thing is: If i install PSU of 5VDC on the Input2 the ChipVol's will be fed "in serial" thru PIN1 with the 5VDC ... correct ?
10 mA per ChipVol right ? And how much is it when the Input2 demands current ? 500mA per Output ? I'd'like to use the LT1763 instead of the 7805 on the Input2 board, due better noise ...

Thanks in advance for any help ...

Hilsner 🙂

artQuake
 
#342
artquake said:
So how was the Kløften Festival ? :eguitar: :drunk: :cheers: ...
Click to expand...

Great! As usual 🙂

There's again an open question:

Is it now only the connection "between" the two ChipVol1's of the third wire of the ribbon cable wich must be cut off ? Or is it the whole wire "3" which must be removed ?
Click to expand...

You just break the connection between the two ChipVol1 boards.

(I ask this because I see that Pin 3 on the Input2 Schematic has "Now connect", but in the ChipVol1 Schematic there is a connection between PIN 3 to VCC via PIN7 of R1. Does your "between" opines only that VCC's do not get shortet ?
Click to expand...

If you look a little closer, you will see that pin 3 is also connected to the SDO pin of the PGA chip. It's those output pins that shouldn't be connected.

The other thing is: If i install PSU of 5VDC on the Input2 the ChipVol's will be fed "in serial" thru PIN1 with the 5VDC ... correct ?
Click to expand...

If you mean pin 1 of JP8, then yes.

10 mA per ChipVol right ? And how much is it when the Input2 demands current ? 500mA per Output ? I'd'like to use the LT1763 instead of the 7805 on the Input2 board, due better noise ...
Click to expand...

500mA should be enough for everything, so one LT1763 should be able to handle the load.

Best regards,

Mikkel C. Simonsen
 
#343
mcs said:


I can't say for sure - I have never tried them. The encoders I supply are from the STEC16 series. But it looks like the STEC12 (available from Reichelt) is similar to the STEC16.

Best regards,

Mikkel C. Simonsen
Click to expand...


Thanks, i will try it, because they have a "push" function. If it fails the i use the STEC16.
 
#344
Hello Mikkel,

Thank you for the informations ... i got the combination of ChipVol1's, Input2, Control2 running well. 😛

Another Issue is the Remote1 Kit: I assembled it and made testing as written on Page 9 of the manual.
With 100R between Pin10/17 and Pin 10/16 the motorpot turns well (both sides and correct).
Namely i did not install any relays to the Mute and Power Pins but i measured the Voltage when pressing the toggle switch on the power switch connector. That worked well and showed the VCC according to expectation.

After installing U1 and U4 the motorpot did not react to the remote control (SRU ...) there was no voltage on Motorpot pins when pressing the remote, even the Relay Pins do not change their value when pressing for example Power on ....
I tryed different RC5 codes too but it still does not work ... is there maybee something wrong with the μC ... 😕

Thanks in adveance for your answer

best regards
artQuake
 
#345
mcs said:
So you need balanced and four channels?

For the volume control part you could use two RelVol3 boards or four ChipVol1 boards. To control it you could use the VolControl1-3.

Best regards,

Mikkel C. Simonsen
Click to expand...


Hi,

I am close to pass my order, but for some components i don't know what to choose please help 😉

Control2 but with which front panel ?
2 x RelVol3 but how to choose the resistors ?

Power supply wich one ( for 8 channel maybe) ?

Screen LCD16x2BB

Remote RC400

Thanks by advance


Anthony
 
#346
artquake said:
Thank you for the informations ... i got the combination of ChipVol1's, Input2, Control2 running well. 😛

Another Issue is the Remote1 Kit: I assembled it and made testing as written on Page 9 of the manual.
With 100R between Pin10/17 and Pin 10/16 the motorpot turns well (both sides and correct).
Namely i did not install any relays to the Mute and Power Pins but i measured the Voltage when pressing the toggle switch on the power switch connector. That worked well and showed the VCC according to expectation.
Click to expand...

Not quite sure what you mean here. The voltage on the relay headers shouldn't change when you press the power switch with the µc not installed.


After installing U1 and U4 the motorpot did not react to the remote control (SRU ...) there was no voltage on Motorpot pins when pressing the remote, even the Relay Pins do not change their value when pressing for example Power on ....
Click to expand...

The mute relay should switch on for some seconds when you connect the power. Does it switch off, or does it just stay on? If it stays on, the µc is probably bad.

Best regards,

Mikkel C. Simonsen
 
#347
dede said:
Control2 but with which front panel ?
Click to expand...

If you only need volume control, and no input selector, you may as well choose the cheaper type 2.


2 x RelVol3 but how to choose the resistors ?
Click to expand...

Depends what your signal source is designed to drive. 10k should probably be fine.


Power supply wich one ( for 8 channel maybe) ?
Click to expand...

Just use something like a 78T05 regulator (5V 3A) on a heat sink.

Best regards,

Mikkel C. Simonsen
 
#348
I have just had time to finish a new product. An LM4780 power amp. I can be configured for stereo, bridged or parallel operation. The output power is up to 2*75W or 140W in parallel/bridge mode according to the National datasheet. I have only tested up to 66W in stereo and 58W in bridge mode so far. The heatsink got quite hot at those power levels after some minutes 🙂

The bridged mode uses a balanced line driver chip instead of the bridge circuit shown in the datasheet. The datasheet circuit looks too much like a cheap hack to me...

LM4780-photo.595_500.jpg


Best regards,

Mikkel C. Simonsen
 
#349
mcs said:


If you only need volume control, and no input selector, you may as well choose the cheaper type 2.




Depends what your signal source is designed to drive. 10k should probably be fine.




Just use something like a 78T05 regulator (5V 3A) on a heat sink.

Best regards,

Mikkel C. Simonsen
Click to expand...


My soundcard (sources) got an outpout impedance of 110 ohms, and my power amplifier got an input impedance of 20k, is there a formula to know ?

Thx

Anthony
 
#350
dede said:
My soundcard (sources) got an outpout impedance of 110 ohms, and my power amplifier got an input impedance of 20k, is there a formula to know ?
Click to expand...

What load your sound card "likes" is hard to say, but if it has an op-amp output stage everything from 1k and up should work fine. The input impedance of your power amp is the maximum value you can use for an attenuator like this. I would probably go with 10k. It's high enough for the sound card, and lower than 20k, so it will work correctly even if the input impedance of your power amp is a bit less than 20k.

Best regards,

Mikkel C. Simonsen
 
#356
mcs said:
Not quite sure what you mean here. The voltage on the relay headers shouldn't change when you press the power switch with the µc not installed.
Click to expand...
Yes it may be confusing ... When i tested the relay headers after the pre Tests (by using tapper switch), the µc was installed. That was all i could test as it does not react to remote control.


mcs said:
The mute relay should switch on for some seconds when you connect the power. Does it switch off, or does it just stay on? If it stays on, the µc is probably bad.
Click to expand...
I will test this in the evening ...


Thanks so far

best regards
artQuake
 
#357
Hello Mikkel,

here the facts, initially no jumpers mounted ...

When powering on the remote1

1.) µc not installed:
Mute Pins - continuous 5VDC
Power Pins - continous 5VDC

2.) µc installed:
Mute Pins - continous 5VDC for 10 seconds and then falling to continous ~ 2Volts
Power Pins - continous 5VDC

When pressing the power toggle switch the Power Pins switching on/off, so that works too.

Based on your statement it seems that then the µc is ok.
But what can be wrong else then ? IR-receiver ? Quarz ?
Is it possible that the circuit needs the relays beeing connected that the IR works ? I can't imagine that, but who knows ...

Thanks in advance for some help
best regards
artQuake
 
#360
artquake said:
Based on your statement it seems that then the µc is ok.
But what can be wrong else then ? IR-receiver ? Quarz ?
Click to expand...

It could be the IR receiver. But it could be the remote also. I have heard from one customer so far that had to use the code search function to get the Philips remote to work. Could you try that, or do you have another remote with Philips TV support you can try?

Best regards,

Mikkel C. Simonsen
 
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