dede said:Control2 but with C2Panel2 front panel
2 x RelVol3 with for set of 10k resistors
78xxPSU2 @ 9v
You need 5V, when you don't have an input selector.
Screen LCD16x2BB
Remote RC400
Anything missing ?
Only a 9V transformer for the 78xxPSU2, if you don't have one.
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
mcs said:It could be the IR receiver. But it could be the remote also. I have heard from one customer so far that had to use the code search function to get the Philips remote to work. Could you try that, or do you have another remote with Philips TV support you can try?
For testing the remote1 i used the same remote contol as i used when testing the set of control2/input2/chipvol1's. So from there i know that the remote control works beyond of any doubts.
Do you have different codes in all your kits, or do you use the same in all of them ? Would be nice if they have all the same, so i can be sure that when it works on one kit it must be work on the other. And afterwards change the code by jumper when using 2 Kits in the same time ... Otherwise it'll be troublesome to find out the working code ... Lottery ...
What specifications should the IR-chip have ? Maybee i can find/buy one here and test it. Are the spec's of those IR-receivers about all the same ?
Would the OSRAM SFH-5110 fit for this use ? Carrier frequency 38 kHz ? Or another ?
Thanks in advance for your efforts
Best regards
artQuake
dede said:Hi , i found a 4A 5v smps (hi frequency) in my stock 😉 did someone try this kind of supply ?
If the ripple is low it will work - otherwise you will inject noise into the signal. Also make sure the supply is well shielded.
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
artquake said:For testing the remote1 i used the same remote contol as i used when testing the set of control2/input2/chipvol1's. So from there i know that the remote control works beyond of any doubts.
Do you have different codes in all your kits, or do you use the same in all of them ? Would be nice if they have all the same, so i can be sure that when it works on one kit it must be work on the other. And afterwards change the code by jumper when using 2 Kits in the same time ... Otherwise it'll be troublesome to find out the working code ... Lottery ...
Both the Control2 and Remote1 use address 0 as default, so they should both work with the same remote. When you look for a code, most remote have an auto-search function, so it's not quite a lottery 🙂
What specifications should the IR-chip have ? Maybee i can find/buy one here and test it. Are the spec's of those IR-receivers about all the same ?
Would the OSRAM SFH-5110 fit for this use ? Carrier frequency 38 kHz ? Or another ?
The type I supply is the SFH5110-36, but the -38 will work also.
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
Motorpot operation
Motorpot operation
Hello Mikkel,
Just want to confirm if the operation of the motorpot is normal. When solicited it moves in half a second steps sequence. Is that the normal operation behavior?
Regards,
Jacq.
Motorpot operation
Hello Mikkel,
Just want to confirm if the operation of the motorpot is normal. When solicited it moves in half a second steps sequence. Is that the normal operation behavior?
Regards,
Jacq.
Re: Motorpot operation
It moves in steps, but is should move without pauses as long as you press the button. What remote are you using?
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
jacq. said:Just want to confirm if the operation of the motorpot is normal. When solicited it moves in half a second steps sequence. Is that the normal operation behavior?
It moves in steps, but is should move without pauses as long as you press the button. What remote are you using?
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
I have just added Teflon phono sockets and some tube sockets to the website.
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
mcs said:
If the ripple is low it will work - otherwise you will inject noise into the signal. Also make sure the supply is well shielded.
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
It's costless to try thx
Anthony
The type I supply is the SFH5110-36, but the -38 will work also.
Thanks Mikkel, what do you think else could be the problem ? Can it only be the IR-Demodulator anything else ? Any other possibilities for more testing to isolate the problem ?
thanks in advance
artQuake
artquake said:Thanks Mikkel, what do you think else could be the problem ? Can it only be the IR-Demodulator anything else ? Any other possibilities for more testing to isolate the problem ?
When both the IC and the remote control is working, then it must be the IR detector.
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
Hi Mikkel,
i soldered the SFH5110-38 and it still does not work ...
Here some Info about the Atmel ... maybee you see some incredible thing ...
I measured the voltages on the µc when the circuit was powered on:
Pins: Voltage V = VDC
1 / 0 V
2 / 5.08V
3 / 5.08V
4 / 2.39V
5 / 2.2V
6 / 5.08V
7 / 5.08V
8 / 5.08V
9 / 5.08V
10/ 0V
11 / 5.08V
12 / 5.08V
13 / 5.08V
14 / 4.07V
15 / 4.07V
16 / 0.013V
17 / 2.39V
18 / 5.08V
19 / 5.08V
20 / 5.08V
What would you guess ?
Thanks in advance
Best regards
artQuake
i soldered the SFH5110-38 and it still does not work ...
Here some Info about the Atmel ... maybee you see some incredible thing ...
I measured the voltages on the µc when the circuit was powered on:
Pins: Voltage V = VDC
1 / 0 V
2 / 5.08V
3 / 5.08V
4 / 2.39V
5 / 2.2V
6 / 5.08V
7 / 5.08V
8 / 5.08V
9 / 5.08V
10/ 0V
11 / 5.08V
12 / 5.08V
13 / 5.08V
14 / 4.07V
15 / 4.07V
16 / 0.013V
17 / 2.39V
18 / 5.08V
19 / 5.08V
20 / 5.08V
What would you guess ?
Thanks in advance
Best regards
artQuake
artquake said:Hi Mikkel,
i soldered the SFH5110-38 and it still does not work ...
Here some Info about the Atmel ... maybee you see some incredible thing
What would you guess ?
I see nothing wrong - the voltages are all normal. The only problems could be the IR detector (very unlikely now), a bad connection on the board or the MCU could be partially faulty - that's not very usual either. But I will send you a new chip to find out.
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
Hi Mikkel,
I'm looking for a simple function - I have some balanced & some single ended inputs & I need to be able to select between them to give a balanced out to my preamp. I only need low quality stereo vol control as no signal will be passing through the pot (the pot will just vary the voltage to the real vol control). A mute function also needed.
I don't need the sophistication of vol control on balanced inputs.
I guess what I need is a board that can switch two stereo pairs into two channels of balanced input so for 4 balanced inputs I would need 8 stereo channels with the possibility of combining pairs of stereo channels into one balanced channel
Can any of your existing boards handle these functions?
I'm looking for a simple function - I have some balanced & some single ended inputs & I need to be able to select between them to give a balanced out to my preamp. I only need low quality stereo vol control as no signal will be passing through the pot (the pot will just vary the voltage to the real vol control). A mute function also needed.
I don't need the sophistication of vol control on balanced inputs.
I guess what I need is a board that can switch two stereo pairs into two channels of balanced input so for 4 balanced inputs I would need 8 stereo channels with the possibility of combining pairs of stereo channels into one balanced channel
Can any of your existing boards handle these functions?
jkeny said:I guess what I need is a board that can switch two stereo pairs into two channels of balanced input so for 4 balanced inputs I would need 8 stereo channels with the possibility of combining pairs of stereo channels into one balanced channel
Fo the input selection part there's the Input2, but with 2 balanced inputs only. If you need more, you could use two Input1 boards instead. That would get you up to 6 balanced inputs. For volume control you could use the Rem1MD and a cheap motorised pot.
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
ecir38 said:Mikkel, Does the Rem1 MD use the same board as the REM1 Kit or is does it use a smaller pcb?
It uses the same board. But a part of the board isn't used, so you could cut it a bit smaller if needed.
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
Hi,
I well received my order today thanks 😀
I have some question about the boards
I 'am not using input board, so to power the control2 board I have to use pin 2,4 or 6 to +5v but cn i use pin 10, 12 or 14 for the -5 v ?
I am also asking myself about the earth, should I tied the case to the main "earth" ( i am using the psu1) ? And with revol3 does the XLR ground have to be connected to earth also (input, output ???) ?
Thanks a lot
Anthony
I well received my order today thanks 😀
I have some question about the boards
I 'am not using input board, so to power the control2 board I have to use pin 2,4 or 6 to +5v but cn i use pin 10, 12 or 14 for the -5 v ?
I am also asking myself about the earth, should I tied the case to the main "earth" ( i am using the psu1) ? And with revol3 does the XLR ground have to be connected to earth also (input, output ???) ?
Thanks a lot
Anthony
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