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Remote control kits

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#322
Mikkel,

got it finally @ Order 2401 😎 ... something with the "update" button wasn't working well ... cough ... cough ... (It was showing amount 0, but in the order confirmation the old amount was again noted)

Whatever, i started your homepage again, while erasing all cookies, and then all went ok ... sorry for that inconvenience ...

AMEN

Best regards
artQuake
 
#323
Hi Mikkel,

i have an LCD-Display lie around here ... it's from an oldish Akai S-3000 Sampler. As i know so far it's a 240 x 60 dot graphic LCD. It has a separate backlight panel to be fitted between pcb and LCD ... 5 VDC as i remember correct.

See pics here ...

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


Is one of your kits (maybee combining some of them) being able to support this LCD-Screen (due to get some greater scaling) ?

Or even the type of display's which are running in the Behringer DEQ24/96 ? 😎


Edit:
I forgot to ask if the usage of a remote-control as like the one for the XP mediaplayer edition will also work with your boards ... or even thru a pocket pc ?
415ET9Q8FEL._SL500_AA280_.jpg

or maybee some of the programmable logitech products ? (For example Logitech Harmony 880)

artQuake
 
#324
artquake said:
i have an LCD-Display lie around here ... it's from an oldish Akai S-3000 Sampler. As i know so far it's a 240 x 60 dot graphic LCD. It has a separate backlight panel to be fitted between pcb and LCD ... 5 VDC as i remember correct.

Is one of your kits (maybee combining some of them) being able to support this LCD-Screen (due to get some greater scaling) ?
Click to expand...

No, I don't support graphical displays on any of my current boards. There are so many different "standards" for graphical displays, that they're difficult to support. You often have to supply the fonts yourself also, which takes up a lot of space in the microcontroller flash.


I forgot to ask if the usage of a remote-control as like the one for the XP mediaplayer edition will also work with your boards ... or even thru a pocket pc ?
or maybee some of the programmable logitech products ? (For example Logitech Harmony 880)
Click to expand...

I did hear from a guy that got one of the Logitechs to work. As long as you can find codes for Philips or Naim (or some other brands), it should work. Don't know about a pocket PC, but the HP48 should work 🙂

Best regards,

Mikkel C. Simonsen
 
#325
A new product finally. This time it's lo-fi rather than hi-fi. I needed a small stereo power amp, so I made one from the parts I had in my junk drawers. This is the result:

A209K-photo-small.595_500.jpg


I made a couple of extra PCBs, so if anybody else needs a small power amp it's available as a kit now. It can run on AC (up to 15V) or DC (up to 20V) with the on-board power supply. The chip used is the A210 from Frankfurt/Oder.

The output power is huge. Up to 2*6W with <1% distortion in 4 ohms. But that can make a lot of noise on the small speakers I use for testing. And the sound isn't bad actually...

So I guess it is hi-fi then. DIN 45500 only requires 2*6W from a stereo amp 😀

More coming when I get the time to test/finish it...

Best regards,

Mikkel C. Simonsen
 
#326
Advice

Hi,

Your level control kits look like exactly what i am looking for, but i'am a bit lost.

I use 4 channels speakers with active XO trought my soundcard.

I am looking for a balanced, remote controled, as good as possible volume controle kit and i'am not sure of what i should order (i don't need to setup off-sets between the channels).

Thx for your advices

Regards

Anthony
 
#328
Hello Mikkel,

i'm still waiting for the goods of my order ... i did not get any response of my inquiries, so maybee they reached directly your spam filter trash ...
Anyhow i try it on this way to get some informations about the order process No. 2401 ...

Thanks in advance for reply

best regards
artQuake
 
#330
mcs said:
So you need balanced and four channels?

For the volume control part you could use two RelVol3 boards or four ChipVol1 boards. To control it you could use the VolControl1-3.

Best regards,

Mikkel C. Simonsen
Click to expand...


Thanks 😉 as soon as i finished me amplifier i will go for it.

I have another question about the control 2 board. Is it possible to use 4 relvol1 with it ? For a 8 channel unbalanced.

Thanks a lot
 
#331
mcs said:
So you need balanced and four channels?

For the volume control part you could use two RelVol3 boards or four ChipVol1 boards. To control it you could use the VolControl1-3.

Best regards,

Mikkel C. Simonsen
Click to expand...

Hi Mikkel, In my system I use 6 channels speakers + sub with digital XO trough my pc and I need 6 balanced channels and 2 unbalanced (all the channels supported by my soundcard) remotely controlled attenuator. I also need to setup off-sets between the channels: is it possible with your kits?

Many thanks and best regards

Fabio
 
#333
Z1 said:
Hi Mikkel, In my system I use 6 channels speakers + sub with digital XO trough my pc and I need 6 balanced channels and 2 unbalanced (all the channels supported by my soundcard) remotely controlled attenuator. I also need to setup off-sets between the channels: is it possible with your kits?
Click to expand...

Yes, this is possible. But you will need a lot of attenuator boards for all those channels 🙂

Best regards,

Mikkel C. Simonsen
 
#334
mcs said:


Yes, this is possible. But you will need a lot of attenuator boards for all those channels 🙂

Best regards,

Mikkel C. Simonsen
Click to expand...

This isn't a problem (excluding cost and space 🙄 ). My system is a carpc so I need a main volume controller in the dashboard (a rotary encoder with vol. display maybe perfect) and the ability to set up an offset for each balanced channel (unbalanced are used for sub). The boards must be in the back of my car, near pc, amplifiers and soundcard and I'll make a custom 12v power supply.
Which kits I need to do so?

Best regards

Fabio
 
#335
Z1 said:
My system is a carpc so I need a main volume controller in the dashboard (a rotary encoder with vol. display maybe perfect) and the ability to set up an offset for each balanced channel (unbalanced are used for sub). The boards must be in the back of my car, near pc, amplifiers and soundcard and I'll make a custom 12v power supply.
Which kits I need to do so?
Click to expand...

You need a lot of either RelVol3 or ChipVol1 attenuator boards. If you use relay attenuators, you may need some suspension also - I don't know how well the relays copy with bumps...

You can use a Control2 to control it. The problem is the cable length. You may have to add some line driver chips to make it work with the long cables.

Best regards,

Mikkel C. Simonsen
 
#338
Hello Mikkel,

I soldered some boards up to now.

First Question:
- The Combination of VolControl 3 / RelVol3 / Display ---> works fine

But: Why it does not work when the Display is not connected ?
I ask this to know if have to put some wire links, if i'd not use a Display ... as I will not use the Input2 in my application with this combination.



Second Question:
- I finished soldering of both ChipVol1 and Control2 (without Buffer, by adding the wire links ...)

I read in your manual that all ribbon cables are thought in straight thru connection (PIN1 --> PIN1 ... PIN2 --> PIN2 and so on ...)
So when i have two ChipVol1 for balanced signal operation i need to connect both of the ChipVol1's on to the Control2 Board (Let's say JP1, JP2 or even JP2,JP3 if i'd use the Input2 in that case)
Does your pin out Info on page 10 of your manual mean, that
if i use the 10-Pin (JP1) connector from ChipVol1 to the 14-Pin (JP2, JP3) connector of the Control2, that i must connect them both as follows ?

Pin 1 (10 Pin connector) to Pin 3 (14 Pin connector)
Pin 5 (10 Pin connector) to Pin 5 (14 Pin connector)
Pin 2 (10 Pin connector) and so on ... ?

If yes, that would mean that there are some wires of the Ribboncable which have to be twistet ... and that it isn't straight thru any more ...

Any picture of that connection for example and to my secureness ?


Third Question
Will the combination 2 x ChipVol1 / Control2 work also without the Input2 ? I ask this to understand the variations of connections which can be made whithout changing respectively adding optional wire links.


I really appreaciate your precise answer to those questions and I hope my questions are also precise enough in your understanding ... 😉

Thanks in advance
Best regards
artQuake
 
#340
artquake said:
First Question:
- The Combination of VolControl 3 / RelVol3 / Display ---> works fine
Click to expand...

So far so good 🙂

But: Why it does not work when the Display is not connected ?
I ask this to know if have to put some wire links, if i'd not use a Display
Click to expand...

The display is "busy", so the control board waits for the display... A one on pin 14 when the control board reads from the display means the display is busy, and pin 14 floats high when there's no display connected. If you connect pin 14 to ground with a 2k2-4k7 resistor, you should be able to convince the control board that the display isn't busy.

... as I will not use the Input2 in my application with this combination.
Click to expand...

What does the Input2 have to do with the VolControl3/RelVol3?

Second Question:
- I finished soldering of both ChipVol1 and Control2 (without Buffer, by adding the wire links ...)

I read in your manual that all ribbon cables are thought in straight thru connection (PIN1 --> PIN1 ... PIN2 --> PIN2 and so on ...)
So when i have two ChipVol1 for balanced signal operation i need to connect both of the ChipVol1's on to the Control2 Board (Let's say JP1, JP2 or even JP2,JP3 if i'd use the Input2 in that case)
Click to expand...

If you use the Input2, the connection is simple. You connect the input selector board to the control board using a 14-pole cable. You then connect the attenuator board(s) to the 10-pin header on the Input2.

If you connect two ChipVol1 boards in parallel, you have to cut the third wire between the two boards. Otherwise you will connect two output pins, and destroy the PGA chips.

Does your pin out Info on page 10 of your manual mean, that
if i use the 10-Pin (JP1) connector from ChipVol1 to the 14-Pin (JP2, JP3) connector of the Control2, that i must connect them both as follows ?

Pin 1 (10 Pin connector) to Pin 3 (14 Pin connector)
Pin 5 (10 Pin connector) to Pin 5 (14 Pin connector)
Pin 2 (10 Pin connector) and so on ... ?

If yes, that would mean that there are some wires of the Ribboncable which have to be twistet ... and that it isn't straight thru any more ...
Click to expand...

Yes, that's correct. I could have used 14-pin headers on everything, but I don't like wasting expensive PCB space 🙂 The PCB is the most expensive part in many kits after all. Two thirds of the cost in some cases 😱

Any picture of that connection for example and to my secureness ?
Click to expand...

No, just double check everything, and you should be fine.

Third Question
Will the combination 2 x ChipVol1 / Control2 work also without the Input2 ? I ask this to understand the variations of connections which can be made whithout changing respectively adding optional wire links.
Click to expand...

Yes. It will work both with and without the input selector. But the cable are a lot easier to make, if you use the input selector 🙂

Best regards,

Mikkel C. Simonsen
 
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