Reflektor-D builds

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#1,001
samoloko said:
thank you for reply

I ve read It but It Is meant for digital
can we lower C2 value to 470 uF If we use to supply analogue loads
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My subjective best choice for analog was useing Mundorf 4pin AG+ 1000uf cap. In the post I described how to connect it. For digital I used Nichicon FPCAP 1000uf.
I experiment with lowering the value of C2 down to 100uf and using polypropylene cap, however results were not satisfactory for me.
 
#1,007
Hi, Tio

I am thinking to use Mundorf Mlytic AG+ in C2.

I suppose in your connection, you lift the LEDs off ground by employing Mylytic's separate charging / discharging circuit (kind of decoupling). However, it looks like we should use in+ and in- to form a loop and then out+ and out- to form the other (decoupled) loop. Your connection seems to be different than Mundorf's description and than the connection on Salas' flexy. Could you double check?

Mundorf MLytic AG+ 4-Pole cap users : beware of wiring, some of us got it wrong ! | Audiokarma Home Audio Stereo Discussion Forums

Thanks.


WYAN

TioFrancotirador said:
Try also Mundorf 4 pin Ag+ caps. They are excellent. Especially on C2 (1000uf) position 🙂. Among many caps I tried here (elna silmic II, black gate Std, Elna Silmic ARS, Nichicon FPCAP, Nichicon muse BP non polar ...) Mundorf 4 pin are of the widest audio bandwidth (especially high frequencies are very clear and deep bass), best resolution and clarity. You connect your LEDs between Out(-) and In(+) pins then In(-) to GND in PCB and Out(+) to PCB + trace. You would have to just modify/destroy your board in good way to fit this cap 🙂 or you could wait until Salas releases Reflector-D Mini Flexy version, some day, maybe 😉. Anyways it is really worth mod.
And as you already mentioned give some time to burn in.

So, for digital part of chips (DVDDs) I am using Nichicon FPCAP on C2 position (best 1/f filtering, but terrible tone). However for AVDDs, analog Vrefs or powering resistor ladders dac directly (Soekris R2R), generally places from where audio signal is produced from, Mundorf 4 pin I found to excel any other cap in this position.
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#1,008
wyan said:
Hi, Tio

I am thinking to use Mundorf Mlytic AG+ in C2.

I suppose in your connection, you lift the LEDs off ground by employing Mylytic's separate charging / discharging circuit (kind of decoupling). However, it looks like we should use in+ and in- to form a loop and then out+ and out- to form the other (decoupled) loop. Your connection seems to be different than Mundorf's description and than the connection on Salas' flexy. Could you double check?

Mundorf MLytic AG+ 4-Pole cap users : beware of wiring, some of us got it wrong ! | Audiokarma Home Audio Stereo Discussion Forums

Thanks.


WYAN
Click to expand...

The description you provide is for case when 4pin cap is used in PSU application.
The one I described is for LEDs filtering. It is tested and works. I got few reflectors working like that. I cannot imagine connect it any other way for LEDs.
 
#1,011
wyan said:
Thanks. Scratching my head and trying to figure out ...
Click to expand...

Here is the drawing for correct wiring:

I possibly can post pics from my build if needed.
 

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#1,016
AndrewT said:
post1012
The current mirror has to pass current down through both sides.
You have broken the current route through the right hand side.
Then reconnected it via the capacitor's internal wiring.
Click to expand...


Hi, Andrew,

You are probably right. And sure I don't have any idea about the inner structure of that cap. Maybe it is itself a very good cap even without taking advantage of the two-section construction. I will email Mundorf to find out. Thanks.


WYAN
 
#1,017
Hello,
I just build a Reflektor-D with 12VAC transformer, J1(5,4mA IDSS, 82ohm RR) and J2 2SK880GR, FQP3N50C,FQP3P20 and LM329. Just with the LM329 and J2 IDSS 4,6mA(this one has the smallest IDSS from all my batch) I got initially 8,42V, now, after 4 hours of continuous running I get a constant 8,39V.
My target voltage was 8.00V but now I am thinking if I should get ride off the LM329 an try to achieve 8V using LED's or keep the LM329 and modify the design of the DAC to work with 8,39V. I am thinking that LM is better than LED's - please correct me if I am wrong.
With R1=2ohm, and DAC 80mA consumption, the heatsinks are only warm, and I am very happy about this 🙂

If for instance I want to go for 8,5V, if I use a J2 with ~6mA IDSS will that be ok, or I should stay to the recommended 2-4mA J2 IDSS?

Thank you !
 

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#1,018
stefan646 said:
Hello,
I just build a Reflektor-D with 12VAC transformer, J1(5,4mA IDSS, 82ohm RR) and J2 2SK880GR, FQP3N50C,FQP3P20 and LM329. Just with the LM329 and J2 IDSS 4,6mA(this one has the smallest IDSS from all my batch) I got initially 8,42V, now, after 4 hours of continuous running I get a constant 8,39V.
My target voltage was 8.00V but now I am thinking if I should get ride off the LM329 an try to achieve 8V using LED's or keep the LM329 and modify the design of the DAC to work with 8,39V. I am thinking that LM is better than LED's - please correct me if I am wrong.
With R1=2ohm, and DAC 80mA consumption, the heatsinks are only warm, and I am very happy about this 🙂

If for instance I want to go for 8,5V, if I use a J2 with ~6mA IDSS will that be ok, or I should stay to the recommended 2-4mA J2 IDSS?

Thank you !
Click to expand...
Unfortunatelly from my tests leds are better than lm329. Lm329 seems to generate more hf noise. To get 8V I would go 3 green with highest drop, one 1N4148 and jfet with highest idss.
 
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