There are no noise or signals from other parts of the circuit. When I recapped the amp there was no time to order new caps .
The only problem now is that the Nichichon Super Throught 1000uf sound to "oily like there is oil and fatness" in some sounds but with less micro dynamics so I think pretty soon I will try Silmic 2 in that position .🙄
I know everything I'm saying is real regarding the caps having a sound or changing the sound you just need very good ears and speakers and a treated room to hear .
Hi Chris,
The resistor remark was factious.
I've replaced coupling caps in a number of CD players, preamps, receivers, etc...
With Nichicon KZ, Silmic II, BG, NCC AWF, etc... and will state I think there is a difference. Never performed ABX listening tests or tried to technically quantify what I believe I'm hearing.
Unfortunately what happens is someone will take a piece of equipment 25+ years old and replace electrolyics with "audio" caps. There may be a noticeable difference after, but due to the caps being new.
Standard Nichicon, Panasonic, etc... general purpose caps are indistinguishable from their "audio" counterparts in almost every application for standard audio equipment. I'll liken this to something I only do on rare occasion, rebuilding old guitar amps.
In that realm, subjectivity is the rule. Paper and oil sound better than polypropylene and carbon comps sound better than...
I rebuilt an early seventies Twin Reverb with all 1% metal film and MPP caps. No esoteric parts, just good quality. To go the "vintage" route would have cost more. The owner was thrilled with the sound until someone told him I used the wrong parts. The owner of this amp wanted a clean sounding and reliable unit. That's what they got until some ignorant fool who never even heard it said paper and oil are the only type to use.
Just like that guy, Robert2017 is simply repeating the same kind of nonsense without any technical knowledge and obviously very little experience. There are enough of them out there, we don't need any more.
The resistor remark was factious.
I've replaced coupling caps in a number of CD players, preamps, receivers, etc...
With Nichicon KZ, Silmic II, BG, NCC AWF, etc... and will state I think there is a difference. Never performed ABX listening tests or tried to technically quantify what I believe I'm hearing.
Unfortunately what happens is someone will take a piece of equipment 25+ years old and replace electrolyics with "audio" caps. There may be a noticeable difference after, but due to the caps being new.
Standard Nichicon, Panasonic, etc... general purpose caps are indistinguishable from their "audio" counterparts in almost every application for standard audio equipment. I'll liken this to something I only do on rare occasion, rebuilding old guitar amps.
In that realm, subjectivity is the rule. Paper and oil sound better than polypropylene and carbon comps sound better than...
I rebuilt an early seventies Twin Reverb with all 1% metal film and MPP caps. No esoteric parts, just good quality. To go the "vintage" route would have cost more. The owner was thrilled with the sound until someone told him I used the wrong parts. The owner of this amp wanted a clean sounding and reliable unit. That's what they got until some ignorant fool who never even heard it said paper and oil are the only type to use.
Just like that guy, Robert2017 is simply repeating the same kind of nonsense without any technical knowledge and obviously very little experience. There are enough of them out there, we don't need any more.
What is technical knowledge and experience for you ?.
For a loser technical knowledge and experience means he thinks he know anything but the loser don't even have true speakers and a treated room so actually his believes are based mostly on theory and classical science .
For a winner like me knowledge and experience means I don't think I know anything like you but I have true speakers and a treated room so actually my believes are based mostly on reality and blind tests and not theory and classical 80s science . I don't live in a theoretical realm like you....
It could well be acting like a loop aerial and both transmitting and receiving noise throughout the enclosure
Technical knowledge and experience means that you know that the inductance is increased by 40 to 50 nH when you connect capacitors with 2.5 cm leads.
Hi robert2017,
As others have suggested earlier, I'm thinking you are way out of your depth here.
Using a capacitor that is too large is the same thing as attaching a metallic flag that acts as an antenna. There is noise in your circuits, although you would call it the music signal. Any unwanted signal is called noise.
Anyway, you aren't here to learn, and you will not accept the help that has been offered. I'm out of here, it is a waste of time trying to communicate with you on these matters, and you are acting as a troll even if you don't intend to.
-Chris
As others have suggested earlier, I'm thinking you are way out of your depth here.
Using a capacitor that is too large is the same thing as attaching a metallic flag that acts as an antenna. There is noise in your circuits, although you would call it the music signal. Any unwanted signal is called noise.
Anyway, you aren't here to learn, and you will not accept the help that has been offered. I'm out of here, it is a waste of time trying to communicate with you on these matters, and you are acting as a troll even if you don't intend to.
-Chris
I connected the cap like this just temporarily in order to swap and replace other caps on the fly without desoldering the cap from the board each time so to not damage the board . The plan was that after I find the right cap I will solder that normally .
The board in which all components are connected have very long leads (coper traces) that are interfering with other components but the leads are mounted horizontally being the board .
So installing a component with the expanded leads vertically now suddenly is bad ? and the board copper traces need to be expelled against such observation ?.
So a board cooper trace that have 40cm and in which are connected 40 components will not create inductance ?. If we take into consideration that all the traces inside of an amp are measuring 10s and 10s of meters I must be punished because of 2,5 cm ?
woowwww what a science we have here !
Before you go Chris, and in the capacity of moderator, would you ask robert2017 to stop quoting the entire previous post? My head's spinning enough already!
True speakers? Is that a new company? Would you care to elaborate on what makes speakers true?
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True speakers means usually a 3way 4h order design with linear freq drivers and a good designed crossover in which best caps are used .
And that's why you must ensure that your replacement capacitors are as snug as a bug in a rug!
So technical knowledge depends on how good your speakers are. One of the stupidest things I've ever read on this website, and there's some stupid stuff here. And I guess modesty is no longer a virtue.
Speaker design is very complex and requires much of the science you so quickly dismiss. How on earth could you design a fourth order crossover network without it? Or are they third order electrical/ fourth order acoustical.
If you've really built a complex (3-way) speaker equivalent to one costing $10,000 or more from a good manufacturer, then there is only one thing to do... start your own company.
You have great confidence in your loudspeakers, and they may indeed sound 'true' (to you).
I'll never get the chance to hear them - but you could post a photograph to show them off - and hopefully impress your detractors!
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