The distance is about 600mm.If the centre to centre distance from sats to woofers is less than a quarter-wave at 200 Hz you will be fine (ie < 0.43m).
dave
So I think it's not a good idea?
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The satellites have the same baffle width as the original design.No need to make the sats that large. Be sure to keep the dimensions of the T-M-W baffel.
If you decide to buid a square sub, best is to divide it into two volumes with a diagonal divider. Prevents standing waves.
The stands I still have here from another project that I maybe can reuse.
Only another table should be nice specially for this satelite.
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The distance is about 600mm.
So I think it's not a good idea?
It wouldbe a compromise IMO.
dave
Go active for the subs and x-over a little lower. 150 Hz/ 18-24dB/oct. All will be fine. Then, any decend sub x-over will have some kind of phase adjustment. Remember you have to work on the sat high pass, too.
Next, if the sat and sub are standing on one line and you use one per side, things are not that critical. Even up to 400 Hz it is virtually impossible to tell the position of the sub, listening to music, may it be directly under the sat or a meter away. Sure, the lower you x-over, the less problems, but I think the order of the x-over is more important than the frequency. If passive, 12 dB/oct are usualy the best that is used. Go for 18 or 24 active and things get simpler.
The sat is fine with 12dB/oct passive. It's amp will be happier, too.
To be honest, expect the most in (audible) improved sound quality from such an activation, the rest of your build is less important. You have to measure and adjust for your room, as in any serious, low reaching installation.
Next, if the sat and sub are standing on one line and you use one per side, things are not that critical. Even up to 400 Hz it is virtually impossible to tell the position of the sub, listening to music, may it be directly under the sat or a meter away. Sure, the lower you x-over, the less problems, but I think the order of the x-over is more important than the frequency. If passive, 12 dB/oct are usualy the best that is used. Go for 18 or 24 active and things get simpler.
The sat is fine with 12dB/oct passive. It's amp will be happier, too.
To be honest, expect the most in (audible) improved sound quality from such an activation, the rest of your build is less important. You have to measure and adjust for your room, as in any serious, low reaching installation.
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Hi Turbo I have had active in the past and I don't want that anymore.
Just passive please.
Hereby another option that will be fine I think and perfect in balance.
Distance approx 350 mm both woofers to mid.
Just passive please.
Hereby another option that will be fine I think and perfect in balance.
Distance approx 350 mm both woofers to mid.
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So you may call the speaker "Sandy Silver". Nice!
Qute often I hear "since I went for an active sub's, I never want to have it passive again".
You are the first one who ever told me the opposite. You must have a hell of an amp which does not improve in the top region if keept separate from the sub.
Or something went awfull wrong. Maybe no active high pass for example.
Qute often I hear "since I went for an active sub's, I never want to have it passive again".
You are the first one who ever told me the opposite. You must have a hell of an amp which does not improve in the top region if keept separate from the sub.
Or something went awfull wrong. Maybe no active high pass for example.
These are your words. I just dont like all the toeters, bellen en kabels. 😉 What I like is a very good pure stereo setup with one nice amp, one set of cables and good speakers.So you may call the speaker "Sandy Silver". Nice!
Qute often I hear "since I went for an active sub's, I never want to have it passive again".
You are the first one who ever told me the opposite. You must have a hell of an amp which does not improve in the top region if keept separate from the sub.
Or something went awfull wrong. Maybe no active high pass for example.
Dave you are correct haha.The last render is a little anthrapomorphic and looks strange (and not to my taste)
dave
Back to the drawing board.
Keep the Basis at is is, only much lower but deeper.
Tweeter on top at elevation approx. 990mm.
Total height 1060mm instead of 1310mm.
Looks nice and slim.
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New clean and slim Concept.
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Some fine tuning to the concept.
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You have to keep an eye on a massive standing wave with 1000mm height inside. The next one can also fall into the audible range (passive 12dB/oct).
Hereby cabinet with slanted panels.
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A small update.
Wood is on order.
With the exception of 100uF, all upgrade filter components have been received.
Coils are reused.
Also brand new mids due to some hardening of the roll edges at the original mids.
Original mids can be fitted with new rolled edges for the enthusiast.
Filters completely separate for the different drivers.
Filter boards are properly detachably mounted to the panels with spacers.
All filter components are properly secured to the filter shelves.
To be continued.
Wood is on order.
With the exception of 100uF, all upgrade filter components have been received.
Coils are reused.
Also brand new mids due to some hardening of the roll edges at the original mids.
Original mids can be fitted with new rolled edges for the enthusiast.
Filters completely separate for the different drivers.
Filter boards are properly detachably mounted to the panels with spacers.
All filter components are properly secured to the filter shelves.
To be continued.
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