I understand the preference for leaded solders which many forum members advocate for. Still, lead is a nasty toxin and the less of it in our (or your) environment the better.
If you choose the lead-free path the best advice is flux and lots of it. Even with flux core solder additional flux helps tremendously. If you rework or touch up a joint add more flux first. Use solder wick to remove excess solder from joints so that the filets look proper (the same profile as with leaded solder).
You may want to take on surface mount designs in the future. Many components are now only available in surface mount packaging and this trend will certainly continue. If you decide to tackle surface mount designs you should invest in a good stereo microscope. No serious commercial lab would try to do surface mount without the proper optical aids. It’s a fascinating world down there when you can see it clearly!
If you choose the lead-free path the best advice is flux and lots of it. Even with flux core solder additional flux helps tremendously. If you rework or touch up a joint add more flux first. Use solder wick to remove excess solder from joints so that the filets look proper (the same profile as with leaded solder).
You may want to take on surface mount designs in the future. Many components are now only available in surface mount packaging and this trend will certainly continue. If you decide to tackle surface mount designs you should invest in a good stereo microscope. No serious commercial lab would try to do surface mount without the proper optical aids. It’s a fascinating world down there when you can see it clearly!
The key to lead-free soldering is to use a eutectic solder formulation, i.e. a SAC alloy (tin/silver/copper). The other sort (without the 4% silver) is only suitable for machine use. Definitely second the comment about flux - the higher temperature leads to more oxide formation and flux reduces oxides.
Nearly all new components are surface mount only, and have been for ages. Many times the only through-hole components on a commercial board are connectors where the extra mechanical strength is needed, or heavy/bulky components for the same reason.
Nearly all new components are surface mount only, and have been for ages. Many times the only through-hole components on a commercial board are connectors where the extra mechanical strength is needed, or heavy/bulky components for the same reason.
It depends on the power and regulation of the iron. Also on the copper thickness and design elements like polygons. With 100W iron I set around 320C for most of the work. Quality leaded solder has melting temp at around 190C, so there is big reserve.
Oops! Did I miss something, where I have to put in SIM card? I'm kidding🙂.
As a child, I read whatever I laid my hands on. Man, man... this is EU law... Are you lost? It's not a problem. Try you again, I'll give you a hint. Let's start with the obvious:
https://de.farnell.com/stannol/hs10-2510-0-7mm-500g/l-tdraht-362flux-0-71mm-500g/dp/817508
In case it's not obvious - I'm just trying to help.
To be continued. With pictures.
One question regarding lead in solder wire. I ordered the Cardas wire from the DIYA store https://diyaudiostore.com/products/cardas-quad-eutectic-solder . Even that contains lead(it is written in the packaging) and it is advertised as favorite solder for many DIYers. Is this a problems as well?
Anyway for smoke absorbers what do folks use? Does something like this work - https://www.amazon.com/KOTTO-Soldering-Absorber-Electric-Extractor/dp/B07ZHH5H7N/ ?
Hi,
I don't want to interfere into your conversation, but I'd like to point out that the product you linked is lead-free. 🙂
All of us here, even if some more than others, do it here to give a positive contribution. 😉
Never used it, and personally I wouldn't trust too much the filtering capabilities of what seems like little more than a toy and in my opinion would only get in the way of your work.
In my opinion, in the amateur field an open window is much more effective and safe for proper ventilation of the environment in which you work.
You can use a small fan to blow clean air towards your face/fumes away from it. But a simple trick I've used since I started soldering is to simply hold my breath, wait for the smoke to clear or blow away the last whisps.
1- ?? И какво съдържа? Единият от нас е луд /другият съм аз/. Колко добър си в спора и дебатите? Ще загубите 🙂.
2- Тези смели заключения оставят някои тревожни проблеми неразрешени. №48, №51 - как ви се струва? Слушам те внимателно 🙂🙂.
@BATE VANKO
Please note that one of us two broke at least a couple of Forum rules.
And that's not me. 😉
Please note that one of us two broke at least a couple of Forum rules.
And that's not me. 😉
Logon, witty answer, but didn't sound convincing. Is there anything else I should know? OK. I wonder what this means - ''workaround'' #48? Probably ''for those who want to get around the law - village tricks for beginners?'' I look, read aloud and can't believe my ears. Enough nonsense. We've become the laughing stock of the world! Logon Logon, listen carefully and take notes: How to read EU legislation? Ask America's top distributors. The devil is in the details, the truth lies between the lines. So here's the solution /in my experience/: I bought a soldering wire about 1 month ago from DigiKey /Kester 24-6337-7402, €147/. Do DigiKey know the laws, our/EU/laws? Don't doubt. They know what they're doing, trust me. Incoterms DDP, free shipping and so on - the perfect distributor. I've said it before, and I'll say it again: Thank you USA!!!
I've spent the better part of two decades /as a hobbyist/ using solder STANNOL-Sn60Pb38Cu2. Excellent product, but it is no longer produced.
I hope you find this information helpful /the EU members/.
I've spent the better part of two decades /as a hobbyist/ using solder STANNOL-Sn60Pb38Cu2. Excellent product, but it is no longer produced.
I hope you find this information helpful /the EU members/.
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@BATE VANKO
See, I believe that everyone has their own needs and everyone disposes of their own time and money as they wish.
Thank you for sharing your experience and I'm sure that what you say makes sense to you, but what I want to highlight is the fact that as you have already been told by more than one other member in EU there is a ban on selling lead-containing solder alloys to non-professional users.
How will they put this into practice and distinguish who is an amateur from who is a professional?
I don't know and I don't care to know.
Did I perhaps say that I am tearing my clothes off because I can't find what I want at the price I want?
No, I didn't say that.
There are such a huge amount of (good) products out there that everyone is spoiled for choice: you are happy with Stannol (and I have some too) I got along well with Cardas and now I get along well with a (good) 60/40 that costs a quarter of the price of Cardas. 😍
P. S.: In my opinion, the fact that even things prohibited for reasons of public health can be "easily" purchased does not exempt anyone from their responsibilities, neither the sellers, nor the popularizers, nor the buyers.
And since this is an international public forum (which must be written in English 😉) that's the only reason I'm not going to share the "workaround" I mentioned and that you still seem so curious about. 🙂
See, I believe that everyone has their own needs and everyone disposes of their own time and money as they wish.
Thank you for sharing your experience and I'm sure that what you say makes sense to you, but what I want to highlight is the fact that as you have already been told by more than one other member in EU there is a ban on selling lead-containing solder alloys to non-professional users.
How will they put this into practice and distinguish who is an amateur from who is a professional?
I don't know and I don't care to know.
Did I perhaps say that I am tearing my clothes off because I can't find what I want at the price I want?
No, I didn't say that.
There are such a huge amount of (good) products out there that everyone is spoiled for choice: you are happy with Stannol (and I have some too) I got along well with Cardas and now I get along well with a (good) 60/40 that costs a quarter of the price of Cardas. 😍
P. S.: In my opinion, the fact that even things prohibited for reasons of public health can be "easily" purchased does not exempt anyone from their responsibilities, neither the sellers, nor the popularizers, nor the buyers.
And since this is an international public forum (which must be written in English 😉) that's the only reason I'm not going to share the "workaround" I mentioned and that you still seem so curious about. 🙂