While you cut the componets protruding wires short, you induce extreme stress into the soldering point. My advice on such a small project: Reflow all points after cutting the leads short, which will relieve any tension from the component. Otherwise you have build in a future problem.
You can watch my approach here:
I'm not suggesting this is the only correct approach. Only that it is the approach that I use. With years of practice I've managed to get my hands calibrated to the 0.4" pin spacing of resistors, so I just bend them and stuff them into the board.
Tom
I'm not suggesting this is the only correct approach. Only that it is the approach that I use. With years of practice I've managed to get my hands calibrated to the 0.4" pin spacing of resistors, so I just bend them and stuff them into the board.
Tom
And, as time goes on, the most important soldering tool on my bench is a good magnifier lamp.
Yeah... You can see my microscope in the left side of the video above. #gettingOldSucks
That said, I use the microscope with SMD parts. My soldering is much better when I use the 'scope than when I try to solder 0603 without it.
Tom
That said, I use the microscope with SMD parts. My soldering is much better when I use the 'scope than when I try to solder 0603 without it.
Tom
Better to cut the leads to length first, and then solder. I do this routinely, and resoldering the joints is not necessary.
Then you got the problem of the parts slipping out. I use a piece of neoprene foam as an underlay, so parts of identical heigth are pushed up a bit. Starting with those small parts like diodes and resistors of course. Anyway, this is not the only way to solder, it all depends on the actual situation.
I learned about the problem with cutting soldered components just a few years ago. It might have gotten much more problematic with lead free solder that is harder than the old stuff.
I learned about the problem with cutting soldered components just a few years ago. It might have gotten much more problematic with lead free solder that is harder than the old stuff.
Yes I am also using a 10x magnifying glass. The main problem it causes is I’m unsure if I have applied more or less solder. But I guess practice will make it better.
1. Insert your components neatly and flush with the PCB. Make sure the legs of the component are clean. If not, clean up with some fine steel wool.
2. Bend the legs 30 degrees or so - just enough that the component is not falling back out
3. Put your clean solder tip in a position where both the leg of the component and the trace on the PCB gets heated
4. Apply that solder (no flux as the solder has flux in it - if you use the kind for electronics)
5. Observe a little sizzling and smoking
6. Count to 3
7. Remove the solder iron and solder
8. Let it cool (5 sec.)
9. Inspect your handy work. The solder should form a small - not big - blob around your component leg
10. Snip off extra lead above the solder joint - but avoid snipping into your joint as you will deform what you just finished. 1/2 mm above the top of the joint is about right.
No need to check with a meter. This method works reliably. But practice, practice, practice. You will become a master!
Good luck.
2. Bend the legs 30 degrees or so - just enough that the component is not falling back out
3. Put your clean solder tip in a position where both the leg of the component and the trace on the PCB gets heated
4. Apply that solder (no flux as the solder has flux in it - if you use the kind for electronics)
5. Observe a little sizzling and smoking
6. Count to 3
7. Remove the solder iron and solder
8. Let it cool (5 sec.)
9. Inspect your handy work. The solder should form a small - not big - blob around your component leg
10. Snip off extra lead above the solder joint - but avoid snipping into your joint as you will deform what you just finished. 1/2 mm above the top of the joint is about right.
No need to check with a meter. This method works reliably. But practice, practice, practice. You will become a master!
Good luck.
Not at all, the leads are slightly bent inward or outward to cinch the part to the board before soldering.
That is what I said: Make sure the leads are bent slightly. Having been doing this hobby for more than 50 years 😵
At least they don't talk over the music like modern YouTubers. 🙂
I took a close look at flux and solder alloys a while back. You can find my thoughts here: https://neurochrome.com/pages/choosing-solder
Tom
With practice one can reduce the dwell time. Most importantly, don't shorten contact time because of fears of overheating. Basic principle is to get enough heat into the joint for solder to flow freely, as opposed to having it ball up. Fortunately, one can see the change of state and flow. With experience, one learns that it comes down to: apply heat, feed solder, hold soldering tip until the flow is complete, then remove tip. However long that takes is the right amount of time.
It's just a personal preference, but when I need a magnified view of what I'm soldering or unsoldering I prefer a pair of normal so-called "reading" glasses which when necessary with as many as 7 diopters are preferable to other means which instead are not very comfortable for me (even if one has to get closer) and I don't need anything else except in rare cases for which I use this.
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Not if its stainless steel, which will scratch the iron-plating on the bit and ruin it. Brass sponge is possble, but a sponge is guaranteed not to cause wear to the bit and tells you if the iron is hot by the sound too!
Once the iron plating is breached the copper bit will dissolve in solder in weeks...
Thanks Mark. I wondered what was going on with some of the tips. The very end of some of them were hollowing out and it never occurred to me as to why. At about that same time, these tips become useless. A new tip makes me look like a master again.
Of course you can only use brass wool one, I never saw using steel one for the job. People tend to think that sponge is easier on the tip, but it is misconception. Thermal shock caused by wet sponge does more harm to the tip than the brass does. Use it decently and your tip will last a long time. I wasn't able to make even slight wear on the 80W ERSA over 2 years of extensive professional soldering, using dedicated brass wool. The only advantage of the sponge is that in reality it cleans the tip a bit quicker and is easier to maintain clean.
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