I wonder what it would cost to get the local carpenter to do it here in Denmark? My son has said for some time that he wanted to start apprenticeship as one, so I thought yes, now I have a box builder 😉 But nothing has happened and now he's been trying to be admitted to the school of architecture in Copenhagen.
oh you can let him do both…
last i heard, isnt a beer at the restaurant about €6 euro, and a pizza €60 in Copenhagen?
i dont suppose labour is cheap?
last i heard, isnt a beer at the restaurant about €6 euro, and a pizza €60 in Copenhagen?
i dont suppose labour is cheap?
As long as you can space out the rear from the wall due to the passive radiator, I see no reason for it to be bad in that application.
I like it when people think (way) outside the box and have the courage to deal with criticism. In this case I dont see anything to critique other than a successful and well executed design. Most compact 2 ways are bigger and don't perform this well.
Funny you say that. What I saw that I liked was a Dodge Charger with racing stripes of gold and the car was a really nice raspberry or dark cherry. Looked great to me so I transferred that onto the black. It needed something besides just basic gloss black.
Colors are Krylon 18kt gold and Rust-Oleum chameleon pink/gold.
Base is Rust-Oleum chalkboard followed by VHT Night Eyes. Clearcoat is Duplicolor 1k.
I think I chose wisely! Thanks for the compliment!
Colors are Krylon 18kt gold and Rust-Oleum chameleon pink/gold.
Base is Rust-Oleum chalkboard followed by VHT Night Eyes. Clearcoat is Duplicolor 1k.
I think I chose wisely! Thanks for the compliment!
It looks like over here in the states, that the p830945 driver is now currently under MOQ conditions. This means purchase of 500 in quantity is required before you can obtain the drivers. It looks like overseas in Europe it is still available, but I don't know for how long.
Maybe Dayton can clone some specs and develop some replacement/similar units.
The slow removal of Tymphany drivers from the DIY market will hit a lot of designs. I can count 7 of mine in the last few years that now have NLA Tymphany drivers.
Get them while you can...
Maybe Dayton can clone some specs and develop some replacement/similar units.
The slow removal of Tymphany drivers from the DIY market will hit a lot of designs. I can count 7 of mine in the last few years that now have NLA Tymphany drivers.
Get them while you can...
Yeah total bummer hey?
Peerless make some of the best drivers around, regardless of price.
the problem is I don’t know what to stock up on, so many of them are very good.
2 decades ago Peerless developed an 8” XLS driver exclusive for Australia:
that’s gone the way of the dodo.
And the 810921 tweeter came out soon after in 2005. It’s the one loved by Troels Gravesen and costed about $50 at introduction.
http://d-s-t.com.au/data/Peerless/P810921[preliminary2005].pdf
today it lives on as the Scan-Speak D2608/913000.
what do you think Wolf? Suppose there’s a hidden collection of Peerless drivers somewhere- which models would you get?
Peerless make some of the best drivers around, regardless of price.
the problem is I don’t know what to stock up on, so many of them are very good.
2 decades ago Peerless developed an 8” XLS driver exclusive for Australia:
that’s gone the way of the dodo.
And the 810921 tweeter came out soon after in 2005. It’s the one loved by Troels Gravesen and costed about $50 at introduction.
http://d-s-t.com.au/data/Peerless/P810921[preliminary2005].pdf
today it lives on as the Scan-Speak D2608/913000.
what do you think Wolf? Suppose there’s a hidden collection of Peerless drivers somewhere- which models would you get?
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Nice project, thank you for sharing!
I have one worry regarding C1+C3 basically providing a short at high frequencies to the amp. Some amps might not like that, and be prone to oscillate. Maybe it would be possible to add some resistor in series with C1 to be on the safe side?
I have one worry regarding C1+C3 basically providing a short at high frequencies to the amp. Some amps might not like that, and be prone to oscillate. Maybe it would be possible to add some resistor in series with C1 to be on the safe side?
I received the Peerless drivers and SB passive radiators from TLHP in France. Shipping was a bit pricey, but had to be done to get the woofers. Now I can source the rest of the parts at a leisurely pace locally.
I used an NPE for the woofer shunt cap, so it should be fine. If it bothers you, or an Amp you own, then a 4 ohm in series with the small one and across the low pass coil should take care of it.