Trynergy horn build
I am getting ready to tackle a pair of these Trynergy's
I had a thought that came while contemplating the build
To make it a bit simpler was to cut a piece of 1/2 X 1/2 hardwood
Cut to shape of the horn curve and glued to the top and bottom
Outside of Each sidewall,that would give good backing and more gluing contact
Area and better stability of the build. Any thoughts?
I am getting ready to tackle a pair of these Trynergy's
I had a thought that came while contemplating the build
To make it a bit simpler was to cut a piece of 1/2 X 1/2 hardwood
Cut to shape of the horn curve and glued to the top and bottom
Outside of Each sidewall,that would give good backing and more gluing contact
Area and better stability of the build. Any thoughts?
Bigscottoaudio,
Great to hear that you are starting on this project. Half inch thick hardwood is going to be very tough to bend. Unless you slot the concave side with lots of partial depth slots like bendy plywood.
Another option is to cut sheets of 1/4in plywood to the correct shape for the bent sidewalls, place them in a water bath (trash bag) and let sit for a few days. Then have an assistant help you to glue them to the top and bottom panels while you end them. Use lots of clamps to held in place while the glue dries. I have seen this work on several made by a friend of mine.
If I were you, I would start with foam core to get the feel of the process first. It’s easy and fast before jumping into wood. Wood won’t sound any better - it will be more durable. That’s all. The foam core with a layer of latex caulking on the backside and another layer of foam for constrained damping sounds very good. Or use the black mass loaded butyl rubber aluminum faced auto body sound dampener sheets. That would quiet the panel resonances as well.
Good luck and please post photos as you go.
Great to hear that you are starting on this project. Half inch thick hardwood is going to be very tough to bend. Unless you slot the concave side with lots of partial depth slots like bendy plywood.
Another option is to cut sheets of 1/4in plywood to the correct shape for the bent sidewalls, place them in a water bath (trash bag) and let sit for a few days. Then have an assistant help you to glue them to the top and bottom panels while you end them. Use lots of clamps to held in place while the glue dries. I have seen this work on several made by a friend of mine.
If I were you, I would start with foam core to get the feel of the process first. It’s easy and fast before jumping into wood. Wood won’t sound any better - it will be more durable. That’s all. The foam core with a layer of latex caulking on the backside and another layer of foam for constrained damping sounds very good. Or use the black mass loaded butyl rubber aluminum faced auto body sound dampener sheets. That would quiet the panel resonances as well.
Good luck and please post photos as you go.
X I was planning on just cutting the board to the shape of the
Horn wall from a large piece of birch plywood
and just double stick tape it in place to give the horn wall something
To form to when installing gluing in place gluing on the inside first
And then popping the wood off and gluing backside of horn wall
And then maybe even permanently gluing the wood edge there as well
For more stability.
Horn wall from a large piece of birch plywood
and just double stick tape it in place to give the horn wall something
To form to when installing gluing in place gluing on the inside first
And then popping the wood off and gluing backside of horn wall
And then maybe even permanently gluing the wood edge there as well
For more stability.
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having made a pair out of both, i would second what xrk says. make some out of foam first.
when i made the wood ones, i did what you suggest and cut the curve actually in mdf then glued that to ply for the flat top and bottom and used bendy ply for the curved walls glued and pinned to the mdf.
i was learning as i went and it was not an easy build.
however the foam core build blew apart pretty fast but i used expanding foam on the 'outside' of the wood horn to damp resonance and that worked a charm. that gave me the idea to fill in the same area on the foam build. I did that an it wokred great and also strengthened them reallky well becuase the expanding foam sticks to everytihng.
so then i solved the real problem with the foam core build which was the bass boxes blowing apart - i built up more foam core boards around the sides to create a 'surround' and filled the lot with expanding fosam.. they're now massive and really ugly bu sound amazing and are very light.
i stuck them on stands and use them in the garden now. i'll dig out a video clip. i actually only have bass speakers on one side now (on the foam core build) becasue i ran out of drivers. they seem to work well with practically anything as the bass drivers - one has the bass drivers from a set of old sony speakers and one from an old set of aiwa speakers.
when i made the wood ones, i did what you suggest and cut the curve actually in mdf then glued that to ply for the flat top and bottom and used bendy ply for the curved walls glued and pinned to the mdf.
i was learning as i went and it was not an easy build.
however the foam core build blew apart pretty fast but i used expanding foam on the 'outside' of the wood horn to damp resonance and that worked a charm. that gave me the idea to fill in the same area on the foam build. I did that an it wokred great and also strengthened them reallky well becuase the expanding foam sticks to everytihng.
so then i solved the real problem with the foam core build which was the bass boxes blowing apart - i built up more foam core boards around the sides to create a 'surround' and filled the lot with expanding fosam.. they're now massive and really ugly bu sound amazing and are very light.
i stuck them on stands and use them in the garden now. i'll dig out a video clip. i actually only have bass speakers on one side now (on the foam core build) becasue i ran out of drivers. they seem to work well with practically anything as the bass drivers - one has the bass drivers from a set of old sony speakers and one from an old set of aiwa speakers.
On all walls but need not be perfectly fitted to the primary wall. That is, you can glue smaller sections of extra foam core with latex caulking (or expanding foam) on circa 80% of the area exposed on the backside. Enough to make the material less like a drumhead or guitar sound board.
I am not sure I follow what you describe as the process above for cutting and gluing wood. How are you bending the plywood for the curved walls? Or is it a hybrid wood top and bottom panel and foam core curved sidewalls?
JNM:
Very cool - do you have photos of your build? That’s a great idea to use expanding foam, although without a secondary container, I would imagine it might be a bit messy. But now you can simply put it in a box and fill space in between with the expanding foam and I am sure it’s now a pretty sturdy and resonant free structure.
Very cool - do you have photos of your build? That’s a great idea to use expanding foam, although without a secondary container, I would imagine it might be a bit messy. But now you can simply put it in a box and fill space in between with the expanding foam and I am sure it’s now a pretty sturdy and resonant free structure.
when i did the wood build, i used ply for the top and bottom flat sides. Then i drew out the curve on some mdf and cut that so it made the shape of the outside of the curved walls. I glued one of the mdf panels to the top side and one to the botttom. that gave me a small mdf curve to pin/glue the bendy plywood sides to, in the same way you hot glue the foam build. You could also route a groove to seat the bendy ply curve, but I couldn't work out how to alter the shape to alloow for that when i cut the flat ply
X
On the wood part I was speaking about is just cutting out a thin board in the
Profile of the horn bend and either double stick tape or glue it to the
Outside perimeter of the horn walls for more stability and also to help
Easily form the bent horn walls to as well as giving more surface
To glue the horn walls to.
You could do this on a wood top and bottom or Foam.
Although now you have me thinking that I may may want to use
1/2 inch Baltic birch for the top and bottom and Foam for the horn walls.
Since I have plenty of the birch .
On the wood part I was speaking about is just cutting out a thin board in the
Profile of the horn bend and either double stick tape or glue it to the
Outside perimeter of the horn walls for more stability and also to help
Easily form the bent horn walls to as well as giving more surface
To glue the horn walls to.
You could do this on a wood top and bottom or Foam.
Although now you have me thinking that I may may want to use
1/2 inch Baltic birch for the top and bottom and Foam for the horn walls.
Since I have plenty of the birch .
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View attachment foam and more foam.mp4
you can see from the end of the clip where the expanding foam is to hold it alkl together.
you can see from the end of the clip where the expanding foam is to hold it alkl together.
they sound phenomenal. I put neo faital drivers in my wooden ones. They are crazy loud and clean sounding, like the most amazing club system. They hit so hard and clean it almost sounds quiet. point source is uncanny to hear as well.
the foam ones kept the tc9s and as mentioned some cheap rubbish bass drivers (only on one side as you can see), and i have them as a pair now powered by battery and solar for the garden.
They sound lighter, more 'airy' and have a really pleasing effect where it seems that the sound is really floating in the air, not really coming from the speaker at all.
Less serious, but still so loud i have to wait for my wife to go out to turn them up. that's with a 2 gbp car audio amp with a separate sub out. I only use the tone controls and the sub (for the bass drivers) and no dsp or crossover on the garden set. It's difficult to say which i prefer
the foam ones kept the tc9s and as mentioned some cheap rubbish bass drivers (only on one side as you can see), and i have them as a pair now powered by battery and solar for the garden.
They sound lighter, more 'airy' and have a really pleasing effect where it seems that the sound is really floating in the air, not really coming from the speaker at all.
Less serious, but still so loud i have to wait for my wife to go out to turn them up. that's with a 2 gbp car audio amp with a separate sub out. I only use the tone controls and the sub (for the bass drivers) and no dsp or crossover on the garden set. It's difficult to say which i prefer
Thanks X.
Yeah I was thinking you would have to really crank the
Volume on the plate amp to match that sensitivity.
Yeah I was thinking you would have to really crank the
Volume on the plate amp to match that sensitivity.
