I’m glad to hear that they do their duty to deliver a better sound. 😁I got my first pair of these up and running today and installed them in a couple of different amps to check them out. The improvement is not subtle.
Would 0.25w resistors suffice for all/any positions on 'R25'.?
My stash has all the values but I seemed to have homed in on quarter watt jobs for most of it all!
My stash has all the values but I seemed to have homed in on quarter watt jobs for most of it all!
If you keep to ordering the BOM parts (so 0.6W resistors) there will not be a new thread for trouble shooting. That will save the designer (that gives away the design for free) time and effort.
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0.25 W resistors can be used perfectly well for all positions except R8 & R9. Those two can be 0.25 W for the often used 22 – 30 V, but not for the higher output voltages. Though, they will be warm during operation.Would 0.25w resistors suffice for all/any positions on 'R25'.?
There is also a question at what temperature rise is that 0.25 W dissipation declared. Resistors like Dale CMF/RN60 are specified for only 0.25W while other manufacturers would specify such big body resistor for 0.6 – 1 W.
Gentlemen,
need help!
For an integrated rectifier LT3420, how much higher should the FET current value "ID" be than the PSU output current?
For example,
If the preamplifier requires 24V 1A, is it enough to use a FET with a current of 10-20 A "ID"?
need help!
For an integrated rectifier LT3420, how much higher should the FET current value "ID" be than the PSU output current?
For example,
If the preamplifier requires 24V 1A, is it enough to use a FET with a current of 10-20 A "ID"?
Current is not the only critical property of MOSFET used with the LT4320 but 10-20A would be enough.
I would recommend to stick with the BOM proposed parts for any design (is here prasi’s LT4320 CRC board in question?).
Designs can be altered but it could end like this:
* picture borrowed from here.
I would recommend to stick with the BOM proposed parts for any design (is here prasi’s LT4320 CRC board in question?).
Designs can be altered but it could end like this:
* picture borrowed from here.
If anyone in the USA would like to try out @tombo56 R25 boards, I ordered a bunch just before the de minimus rule dissapeared for packages from China.
Boards are 2mm PCB, 2oz Outer copper, white silkscreen, HASL.
Since folks outside the US can still order these direct from JLCPCB, that's they best option still due to high international shipping cost. I'm hoping to help out folks in the US who just missed the opportunity to sneak in a PCB order before the May 2, 2025 deadline kicked in. I posted them up in the swap meet.
Thanks Tombo for sharing freely the great board design!
Boards are 2mm PCB, 2oz Outer copper, white silkscreen, HASL.
Since folks outside the US can still order these direct from JLCPCB, that's they best option still due to high international shipping cost. I'm hoping to help out folks in the US who just missed the opportunity to sneak in a PCB order before the May 2, 2025 deadline kicked in. I posted them up in the swap meet.
Thanks Tombo for sharing freely the great board design!
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Just solder two jumpers:If not using the RF filter(waiting for delivery) would I just use jumpers like in the below pic?
Thank you, Oops I mixed up positive and negative in my original post as member Jean-Paul kindly pointed out 🙂
No not just crossing but also full short AFAIK. Anyway, it would have been a disappointing experience. If not yet experienced enough just keep exactly to the BOM without any deviations/interpretations and triple check everything before thinking of powering it.
Maybe show it with pictures here before that.
Maybe show it with pictures here before that.
Very sensible advice for anyone with less experience.If not yet experienced enough just keep exactly to the BOM without any deviations/interpretations and triple check everything before thinking of powering it.
Maybe show it with pictures here before that.

However, gsrchrisu has already assembled four perfectly working R21 modules. 🙂
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