> Can send you a sample if you like.
I need the Farnell order no.
Then Mark can get one there and try out.
He is off anyway till 23 June.
Worst case we can change the rear panel to 2.5mm without problems.
Patrick
I need the Farnell order no.
Then Mark can get one there and try out.
He is off anyway till 23 June.
Worst case we can change the rear panel to 2.5mm without problems.
Patrick
Not that it is any of my business, but why not go for the Schurter DD1 version (Farnell: 1430803) IEC inlet - rear-side mounted with countersunk screws? I love smooth surfaces, and as far as I can see its not deeper than the snap-in version. It looks/feels great with 3mm black-anodized panels - I can post pictures if anybody is interested.
The F5X case is really very "high-end" and I would personally prefer the (less economical) 'full metal jacket' (NC3MD-LX-B) version of the baseline XLR connectors....
Cheers,
Nic
The F5X case is really very "high-end" and I would personally prefer the (less economical) 'full metal jacket' (NC3MD-LX-B) version of the baseline XLR connectors....
Cheers,
Nic
smyslow, from my experience snap in IEC’s are a PITA. I’ve had tight fitting plugs dislodge the whole assembly...
I have run into the same problems as well. I try to use IEC's with screws now if I can.
The one suggested by NicMac looks like a good possiblity if it will fit.
IEC
I’ve been thinking about the IEC, there’s not much space, by the time you add a crimp connector and insulate there will be much less space.
I did a bit of hunting to find what I think would be a suitable IEC that fits the space, looks sexy (for an IEC 😉) and has a good 10A rating.
BULGIN - BVA01/Z0000/10 - INLET, IEC, DP, NON ILLUMINATED
http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/97800.pdf
The depth is 25.8mm for the non filtered version which is even less than the powercon (27.2mm).
Price is $14.16AUD from Element14.
I’ve been thinking about the IEC, there’s not much space, by the time you add a crimp connector and insulate there will be much less space.
I did a bit of hunting to find what I think would be a suitable IEC that fits the space, looks sexy (for an IEC 😉) and has a good 10A rating.
BULGIN - BVA01/Z0000/10 - INLET, IEC, DP, NON ILLUMINATED
http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/97800.pdf
The depth is 25.8mm for the non filtered version which is even less than the powercon (27.2mm).
Price is $14.16AUD from Element14.
> Not that it is any of my business,
Of course it is, as you are going to get one ... 😉
> but why not go for the Schurter DD1 version (Farnell: 1430803) IEC inlet
Will fit. I shall not influence your choice otherwise.
You need to decide collectively.
> It looks/feels great with 3mm black-anodized panels
Will be matt silver. Black does not look right to my eyes.
Latest picture is wrong colour. Mark too busy.
> I can post pictures if anybody is interested.
Please do.
> The F5X case is really very "high-end" and I would personally prefer the (less economical) 'full metal jacket' (NC3MD-LX-B) version of the baseline XLR connectors....
Firstly if I am not wrong the normal convention is to use a female XLR socket at the power amp.
Again our photos were wrong because Mark just took what he had on hand to make you one. See attached.
A full metal version will also fit, but with the flange on the outside, so you see more of the connector.
The one we proposed can be mounted on the inside, so you need none of the socket once the jack is plugged in.
Matter of taste. Again your (collective) decision. 🙂
Patrick
.
Of course it is, as you are going to get one ... 😉
> but why not go for the Schurter DD1 version (Farnell: 1430803) IEC inlet
Will fit. I shall not influence your choice otherwise.
You need to decide collectively.
> It looks/feels great with 3mm black-anodized panels
Will be matt silver. Black does not look right to my eyes.
Latest picture is wrong colour. Mark too busy.
> I can post pictures if anybody is interested.
Please do.
> The F5X case is really very "high-end" and I would personally prefer the (less economical) 'full metal jacket' (NC3MD-LX-B) version of the baseline XLR connectors....
Firstly if I am not wrong the normal convention is to use a female XLR socket at the power amp.
Again our photos were wrong because Mark just took what he had on hand to make you one. See attached.
A full metal version will also fit, but with the flange on the outside, so you see more of the connector.
The one we proposed can be mounted on the inside, so you need none of the socket once the jack is plugged in.
Matter of taste. Again your (collective) decision. 🙂
Patrick
.
Attachments
Last edited:
> BULGIN - BVA01/Z0000/10 - INLET, IEC, DP, NON ILLUMINATED
Panel cutout is 33mm instead of 28.
You will be very close to the AUX PSU transformer (for the protection circuit).
Patrick
Panel cutout is 33mm instead of 28.
You will be very close to the AUX PSU transformer (for the protection circuit).
Patrick
Neutrik NC3FD-LX (Farnell: 1390116) or any other of the vast Neutrik "D-series". Obviously, to be mounted on the inside with M3 countersunk holes in the panel. If this connector is to deep when mounted on the inside I would agree with EUVL's baseline choice.
All the Neutrik D-series connectors have the same panel cut-out, but unfortunately it is slightly different from that of the baseline XLR.
Cheers,
Nic
All the Neutrik D-series connectors have the same panel cut-out, but unfortunately it is slightly different from that of the baseline XLR.
Cheers,
Nic
Attachments
> Neutrik NC3FD-LX (Farnell: 1390116) or any other of the vast Neutrik "D-series".
> Obviously, to be mounted on the inside with M3 countersunk holes in the panel.
Not quite simple.
The rear panel (matt silver) is just a 3mm aluminium flat plate.
What is giving stiffness is a rear bracket which is folded 3mm aluminium (black).
To mount a XLR socket from the outside, we just need to drill the same holes through both.
To hide the mounting flange on the inside, we need to drill the right holes on the rear panel, onto which the Neutrik is screwed.
But the rear bracket needs a much bigger hole to clear the entire flange, as the spigot at the front is only 2.7mm.
(i.e. it cannot go through both panel & bracket).
The one I proposed is a bit smaller (23x25 compared to 26x31).
A larger cutout is therefore required for the D series, which will of course weaken the rear bracket more.
So if you decide to go for the metal version, then I suggest having the flange outside.
Functionally, there is no advantage in having a metal housing, as the whole socket is already inside the amplifier case.
Patrick
.
> Obviously, to be mounted on the inside with M3 countersunk holes in the panel.
Not quite simple.
The rear panel (matt silver) is just a 3mm aluminium flat plate.
What is giving stiffness is a rear bracket which is folded 3mm aluminium (black).
To mount a XLR socket from the outside, we just need to drill the same holes through both.
To hide the mounting flange on the inside, we need to drill the right holes on the rear panel, onto which the Neutrik is screwed.
But the rear bracket needs a much bigger hole to clear the entire flange, as the spigot at the front is only 2.7mm.
(i.e. it cannot go through both panel & bracket).
The one I proposed is a bit smaller (23x25 compared to 26x31).
A larger cutout is therefore required for the D series, which will of course weaken the rear bracket more.
So if you decide to go for the metal version, then I suggest having the flange outside.
Functionally, there is no advantage in having a metal housing, as the whole socket is already inside the amplifier case.
Patrick
.
Last edited:
Patrick, thank you for the careful description of the situation. I was not aware of the issue with the bracket on the inside and as I do prefer a flush panel your choice of XLR connector does seem to be the best. Will rest my case🙂
Cheers,
Nic
Cheers,
Nic
> Will rest my case
I am open for discussion, and am not insisting on my choice.
After all, it is for you all, not for me. (I already made my choice.)
But I thought I should explain the facts, and let you discuss openly.
Patrick
I am open for discussion, and am not insisting on my choice.
After all, it is for you all, not for me. (I already made my choice.)
But I thought I should explain the facts, and let you discuss openly.
Patrick
I would like to have both the toggle switchon the front as well as a switch on the back, so power can be compeletely shut off ......
For the rest I think, even being a European and therefore used to IEC, Neutrik power con is fine for me as well (not only very good quality but also the looks is very good)
Jan
For the rest I think, even being a European and therefore used to IEC, Neutrik power con is fine for me as well (not only very good quality but also the looks is very good)
Jan
I don't want isolation nor ON/OFF switch on the front. That's where standby or similar should be located.
The wall socket/plug plug pulled is isolation. Anything less is not as safe.
The wall socket/plug plug pulled is isolation. Anything less is not as safe.
So perhaps the DD1 option posted by NicMac might be the best overall solution. It will fit, gives better clearance from the AUX PSU than the Bulgin unit, and has screws for connecting to the rear panel. Unless we find a better solution, this unit gets my vote. 😎
John,
Two Paypals sent today, to cover the Conrad Heatsinks and the 50% Chassis + Reg Heatsinks.
Thanks for your efforts....!
Two Paypals sent today, to cover the Conrad Heatsinks and the 50% Chassis + Reg Heatsinks.
Thanks for your efforts....!
John, Horio,
agree with you, snap-in is not the best solution. So the IEC proposed by NicMac get's also my vote.
Uwe
agree with you, snap-in is not the best solution. So the IEC proposed by NicMac get's also my vote.
Uwe
Thanks Kenneth, I received payment for Conrad heat sinks plus case and regulator heat sinks.
Thanks flg, I received payment for Conrad heat sinks.
Thanks pmchoong I’ve changed you status to pending on both spreadsheets.
Remaining
Heatsink GB Payment list - 5 paymants due
F5X Case and Regular Heat Sink 50% payment list - 7 payments due
Cheers
John
Thanks flg, I received payment for Conrad heat sinks.
Thanks pmchoong I’ve changed you status to pending on both spreadsheets.
Remaining
Heatsink GB Payment list - 5 paymants due
F5X Case and Regular Heat Sink 50% payment list - 7 payments due
Cheers
John
A reminder
So far only 12 have voted for the rear configurations (panel cutouts). The current majority is as follows :
Mains connection, switch, fuse Schurter DD1 version (Farnell: 1430803)
Speaker protection relay 50A 12V automotive
XLR Neutrik NC3FAAV2
M4 earthing bolt
Please state your preference if you have not already done so :
https://spreadsheets.google.com/spr...HYxdXZaY0pmaGJRUHk1bi1SdzdDOXc&hl=en_US#gid=0
Else I go with majority vote. Close in a week's time, so that we can make drawings for production.
Patrick
So far only 12 have voted for the rear configurations (panel cutouts). The current majority is as follows :
Mains connection, switch, fuse Schurter DD1 version (Farnell: 1430803)
Speaker protection relay 50A 12V automotive
XLR Neutrik NC3FAAV2
M4 earthing bolt
Please state your preference if you have not already done so :
https://spreadsheets.google.com/spr...HYxdXZaY0pmaGJRUHk1bi1SdzdDOXc&hl=en_US#gid=0
Else I go with majority vote. Close in a week's time, so that we can make drawings for production.
Patrick
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