Not that it is any of my business, but why not go for the Schurter DD1 version (Farnell: 1430803) IEC inlet - rear-side mounted with countersunk screws? I love smooth surfaces, and as far as I can see its not deeper than the snap-in version. It looks/feels great with 3mm black-anodized panels - I can post pictures if anybody is interested.
The F5X case is really very "high-end" and I would personally prefer the (less economical) 'full metal jacket' (NC3MD-LX-B) version of the baseline XLR connectors....
Cheers,
Nic
The F5X case is really very "high-end" and I would personally prefer the (less economical) 'full metal jacket' (NC3MD-LX-B) version of the baseline XLR connectors....
Cheers,
Nic
I have run into the same problems as well. I try to use IEC's with screws now if I can.
The one suggested by NicMac looks like a good possiblity if it will fit.
IEC
I’ve been thinking about the IEC, there’s not much space, by the time you add a crimp connector and insulate there will be much less space.
I did a bit of hunting to find what I think would be a suitable IEC that fits the space, looks sexy (for an IEC
) and has a good 10A rating.
BULGIN - BVA01/Z0000/10 - INLET, IEC, DP, NON ILLUMINATED
http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/97800.pdf
The depth is 25.8mm for the non filtered version which is even less than the powercon (27.2mm).
Price is $14.16AUD from Element14.
I’ve been thinking about the IEC, there’s not much space, by the time you add a crimp connector and insulate there will be much less space.
I did a bit of hunting to find what I think would be a suitable IEC that fits the space, looks sexy (for an IEC
) and has a good 10A rating.BULGIN - BVA01/Z0000/10 - INLET, IEC, DP, NON ILLUMINATED
http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/97800.pdf
The depth is 25.8mm for the non filtered version which is even less than the powercon (27.2mm).
Price is $14.16AUD from Element14.
> Not that it is any of my business,
Of course it is, as you are going to get one ...
> but why not go for the Schurter DD1 version (Farnell: 1430803) IEC inlet
Will fit. I shall not influence your choice otherwise.
You need to decide collectively.
> It looks/feels great with 3mm black-anodized panels
Will be matt silver. Black does not look right to my eyes.
Latest picture is wrong colour. Mark too busy.
> I can post pictures if anybody is interested.
Please do.
> The F5X case is really very "high-end" and I would personally prefer the (less economical) 'full metal jacket' (NC3MD-LX-B) version of the baseline XLR connectors....
Firstly if I am not wrong the normal convention is to use a female XLR socket at the power amp.
Again our photos were wrong because Mark just took what he had on hand to make you one. See attached.
A full metal version will also fit, but with the flange on the outside, so you see more of the connector.
The one we proposed can be mounted on the inside, so you need none of the socket once the jack is plugged in.
Matter of taste. Again your (collective) decision.
Patrick
.
Of course it is, as you are going to get one ...
> but why not go for the Schurter DD1 version (Farnell: 1430803) IEC inlet
Will fit. I shall not influence your choice otherwise.
You need to decide collectively.
> It looks/feels great with 3mm black-anodized panels
Will be matt silver. Black does not look right to my eyes.
Latest picture is wrong colour. Mark too busy.
> I can post pictures if anybody is interested.
Please do.
> The F5X case is really very "high-end" and I would personally prefer the (less economical) 'full metal jacket' (NC3MD-LX-B) version of the baseline XLR connectors....
Firstly if I am not wrong the normal convention is to use a female XLR socket at the power amp.
Again our photos were wrong because Mark just took what he had on hand to make you one. See attached.
A full metal version will also fit, but with the flange on the outside, so you see more of the connector.
The one we proposed can be mounted on the inside, so you need none of the socket once the jack is plugged in.
Matter of taste. Again your (collective) decision.
Patrick
.
Attachments
Last edited:
Neutrik NC3FD-LX (Farnell: 1390116) or any other of the vast Neutrik "D-series". Obviously, to be mounted on the inside with M3 countersunk holes in the panel. If this connector is to deep when mounted on the inside I would agree with EUVL's baseline choice.
All the Neutrik D-series connectors have the same panel cut-out, but unfortunately it is slightly different from that of the baseline XLR.
Cheers,
Nic
All the Neutrik D-series connectors have the same panel cut-out, but unfortunately it is slightly different from that of the baseline XLR.
Cheers,
Nic
Attachments
> Neutrik NC3FD-LX (Farnell: 1390116) or any other of the vast Neutrik "D-series".
> Obviously, to be mounted on the inside with M3 countersunk holes in the panel.
Not quite simple.
The rear panel (matt silver) is just a 3mm aluminium flat plate.
What is giving stiffness is a rear bracket which is folded 3mm aluminium (black).
To mount a XLR socket from the outside, we just need to drill the same holes through both.
To hide the mounting flange on the inside, we need to drill the right holes on the rear panel, onto which the Neutrik is screwed.
But the rear bracket needs a much bigger hole to clear the entire flange, as the spigot at the front is only 2.7mm.
(i.e. it cannot go through both panel & bracket).
The one I proposed is a bit smaller (23x25 compared to 26x31).
A larger cutout is therefore required for the D series, which will of course weaken the rear bracket more.
So if you decide to go for the metal version, then I suggest having the flange outside.
Functionally, there is no advantage in having a metal housing, as the whole socket is already inside the amplifier case.
Patrick
.
> Obviously, to be mounted on the inside with M3 countersunk holes in the panel.
Not quite simple.
The rear panel (matt silver) is just a 3mm aluminium flat plate.
What is giving stiffness is a rear bracket which is folded 3mm aluminium (black).
To mount a XLR socket from the outside, we just need to drill the same holes through both.
To hide the mounting flange on the inside, we need to drill the right holes on the rear panel, onto which the Neutrik is screwed.
But the rear bracket needs a much bigger hole to clear the entire flange, as the spigot at the front is only 2.7mm.
(i.e. it cannot go through both panel & bracket).
The one I proposed is a bit smaller (23x25 compared to 26x31).
A larger cutout is therefore required for the D series, which will of course weaken the rear bracket more.
So if you decide to go for the metal version, then I suggest having the flange outside.
Functionally, there is no advantage in having a metal housing, as the whole socket is already inside the amplifier case.
Patrick
.
Last edited:
I would like to have both the toggle switchon the front as well as a switch on the back, so power can be compeletely shut off ......
For the rest I think, even being a European and therefore used to IEC, Neutrik power con is fine for me as well (not only very good quality but also the looks is very good)
Jan
For the rest I think, even being a European and therefore used to IEC, Neutrik power con is fine for me as well (not only very good quality but also the looks is very good)
Jan
So perhaps the DD1 option posted by NicMac might be the best overall solution. It will fit, gives better clearance from the AUX PSU than the Bulgin unit, and has screws for connecting to the rear panel. Unless we find a better solution, this unit gets my vote.
Thanks Kenneth, I received payment for Conrad heat sinks plus case and regulator heat sinks.
Thanks flg, I received payment for Conrad heat sinks.
Thanks pmchoong I’ve changed you status to pending on both spreadsheets.
Remaining
Heatsink GB Payment list - 5 paymants due
F5X Case and Regular Heat Sink 50% payment list - 7 payments due
Cheers
John
Thanks flg, I received payment for Conrad heat sinks.
Thanks pmchoong I’ve changed you status to pending on both spreadsheets.
Remaining
Heatsink GB Payment list - 5 paymants due
F5X Case and Regular Heat Sink 50% payment list - 7 payments due
Cheers
John
A reminder
So far only 12 have voted for the rear configurations (panel cutouts). The current majority is as follows :
Mains connection, switch, fuse Schurter DD1 version (Farnell: 1430803)
Speaker protection relay 50A 12V automotive
XLR Neutrik NC3FAAV2
M4 earthing bolt
Please state your preference if you have not already done so :
https://spreadsheets.google.com/spr...HYxdXZaY0pmaGJRUHk1bi1SdzdDOXc&hl=en_US#gid=0
Else I go with majority vote. Close in a week's time, so that we can make drawings for production.
Patrick
So far only 12 have voted for the rear configurations (panel cutouts). The current majority is as follows :
Mains connection, switch, fuse Schurter DD1 version (Farnell: 1430803)
Speaker protection relay 50A 12V automotive
XLR Neutrik NC3FAAV2
M4 earthing bolt
Please state your preference if you have not already done so :
https://spreadsheets.google.com/spr...HYxdXZaY0pmaGJRUHk1bi1SdzdDOXc&hl=en_US#gid=0
Else I go with majority vote. Close in a week's time, so that we can make drawings for production.
Patrick
- Status
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