Post your Solid State pics here

Maybe it's not a good idea to use nylon screws? Won't they stretch and deform slightly with temperature? The pressure on the transistor needs to be consistent otherwise you'll get small pockets under the transistor that aren't in contact with the pads. Thermal paste should improve things.
I switched to metal screws for the TO3Ps which was a good idea anyway, but it did not fix the problem. In the end I switched to mica + grease on one of the boards and did a (very scientific) test where I ran the amp hard and held my thumb on a TO3P of each board (mica + grease versus silpad) and the difference was astonishing. The mica + grease combo does a much, much better job of conducting the heat into the big sinks. What I can say is do not bother with TO3P silpads from Jaycar (this will only be relevant to AU/NZ). The issue is that Jaycar don't sell TO3P mica pads so I had to harvest mine from the parts bin.

It was my first time using mica + grease and it is very messy and fiddly but the end result was worth the effort.

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is another version of counterpoint
that uses a transistor as the final amplifier that arranges a quasi complementary circuit instead of the original output that is a MOSFET

The resulting sound is soft and smooth. different from the original one that uses mosfet

Compatible with preamp clone mcintosh c22
sound matching all frequency bands come out completely in
 

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Been back to working my NIC opamp VAS design (actually replacing a damaged PCB that had a heatsink dropped on it...), so I thought I post a couple of images while at it. The original thread is: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/nic-opamp-vas-topology.348646/

The main PCB (all but output stage):
NIC_amp_main.JPG


The output stage PCB:
NIC_amp_OS.JPG


The output devices are ECX10P20 / ECX10N20 lateral FETs, so no thermal feedback needed for the bias, a tiny 11 turn cermet preset to set the bias.

The Eagle schematic for the main PCB:

Screen Shot 2023-07-24 at 20.05.14.png
 
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So here’s my first DIY amp project. It’s not a full DYI, more of just a recase with some add ons but they sound amazing, have TONs for power and they now look as good as my Carver Amazings now. The original amps are AB International 600As. They are bridged so each case is now a mono block weighing in at about 65lbs each and puts out over 1100 watts at 4 ohms. I cut the output boards in half so I could mount each half on each side. Had to modified the meters to work with a normal driver board. Also added a 25 amp solid state relay that’s trigged from my preamp. Next step, get rid of the clip circuit on the input side and build a new circuit the monitor the actual output.
 

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My little Breeze Audio class A power amp. I used to use active crossovers, but switched to a simple amplifier highpass filter, to the point just above where a pair of full range drivers flap around without producing much sound, and augment the lower range with an open baffle bass frame.
Maybe a little cleaner than without highpassing the amp; especially in the upper midrange.
 

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