bzfcocon said:
The whole top of the case... sorta ugly, not good if you have kids or pets who'll poke around in the power though.
I've got the heatshrink'd transformer core sitting on top of the transformer in the power supply and the lead brick sitting on the metal chassis almost touching a CD on the drive mechanism.
The difference in sound I heard tells me an upgraded case/enclosure is warrented for the best sound... I've got several ideas, but haven't had time to try any yet.
Greg in Minneapolis
mrskinny said:
Sweet. How's it sound?
What voltage do you need for the PSOne? Did you preregulate it or just feed the full 6v into the unit? What's the MaH of the batts your using?
I fly electric model airplanes and have some reasonably high capacity (7800 Mah) and high current (60+Amps) packs I can try... I've been planning to do this with one of my modified PS-1's, but I do have a PSOne in my stable that I can pull out and give a try pretty easily.
TIA!
Greg in Minneapolis
Initially, I had wanted to try the 1001 with batteries. However, being the lazy sod that I am, I didn't want to bother finding a way to get the odd voltages that it needs. The PSOne has a 7.5V wall-wart stock, close enough to the 7.2V that the SLA's put out that it will work. The batteries are 2 6V 5AH SLAs- I used these simply because I had them. I cut the cord off an old AC adapter, soldered it to the batteries, and plugged them into the existing connector on the player- no changes nesessary. They will last for about 3 hours playing time- larger capacity batteries wouldn't hurt any. The batteries make a surprisingly large difference in the sound quality, but aren't enough on their own. I also did Micks output mod, and fixed the transport's suspension so that it would float freely. I'd consider these two mods essential. As this is the only one of these that I have I didn't get too carried away with the mods for fear of damaging it. I'm sure that more could be done to improve the sound. Sounds like the 1001, but better.
You got me thinking now...
Yah... Without a schematic to make sure the unit has internal regulators, I'm loath to go much over the stock 7.6/3.6 volts with batteries. That means regulators... And a bit more hassle to make it work.
My lithium cells are pretty close to that tho... Figure about 3.8-4.2 volt per cell, so I can do 8v/4v pretty easily.
Anyone ever get the SCPH-1001/1002 schematic?
Nice.
Can you describe the differences the batteries made?
Also, what caps did you bypass fore Mick's mod? Looking at the PSOne board, I see two small elecrolytics on the board sorta between the power connector and the output connector... And also near what look to be the muting Q's. Also, what chip does the D to A? I'd prefer to take the output directly off the chip and avoid the board traces for the output altogether.
Greg in Minneapolis
mrskinny said:
Yah... Without a schematic to make sure the unit has internal regulators, I'm loath to go much over the stock 7.6/3.6 volts with batteries. That means regulators... And a bit more hassle to make it work.
My lithium cells are pretty close to that tho... Figure about 3.8-4.2 volt per cell, so I can do 8v/4v pretty easily.
Anyone ever get the SCPH-1001/1002 schematic?
mrskinny said:
Nice.
mrskinny said:
Can you describe the differences the batteries made?
Also, what caps did you bypass fore Mick's mod? Looking at the PSOne board, I see two small elecrolytics on the board sorta between the power connector and the output connector... And also near what look to be the muting Q's. Also, what chip does the D to A? I'd prefer to take the output directly off the chip and avoid the board traces for the output altogether.
Greg in Minneapolis
I took a quick look at the schematics and at the circuit board, and in this player there doesn't seem to be a seperate D/A converter ( feel free to correct me if I'm wrong). It appears that the large processor does the D/A conversion. I had no trouble locating the output op-amp though. All I did was connect the new output wiring in front of the two capacitors that are circled in the schematic below,and found a nearby ground to hookup to. I tried this just after the batteries, and didn't know if this would work, so I left the original output stage hooked up. As it worked fine, I'm sure that the original output could be completely removed,as with the 1001. The op-amp also provides the mute function,so you will be removing this also. The only noise that I noticed was a pop in the speakers on turn on/off if the amp is on. BTW, the two capacitors are located close by the op-amp. As far as the batteries themselves go, using them instead of the stock supply reduced the amount of power supply noise considerably, which cleared up the sound quite a bit. I'd say that they contributed about 50% to the improvement in sound quality.
Attachments
Hello all,
i know i am late here 😀
as beeing new to this forum, and reading with great interrest
to endles posts, i pluged in my brothers PS1, 1000 Japan version,
and i have to state :
Oh my God
Not that i am in lack of HighEnd escapades and endless listening to
finest handcraft.
The old 1000 does sound very nice, still untuned !
I am gonna fix the PSU and make the shortcut from the DAC to the RCA's. And then who knows.
What do you all think about disconnecting the power-pins from the DAC
and give him a own PSU ?
I have to say thanks to all who contributed making this very
interresting thread.
i know i am late here 😀
as beeing new to this forum, and reading with great interrest
to endles posts, i pluged in my brothers PS1, 1000 Japan version,
and i have to state :
Oh my God
Not that i am in lack of HighEnd escapades and endless listening to
finest handcraft.
The old 1000 does sound very nice, still untuned !
I am gonna fix the PSU and make the shortcut from the DAC to the RCA's. And then who knows.
What do you all think about disconnecting the power-pins from the DAC
and give him a own PSU ?
I have to say thanks to all who contributed making this very
interresting thread.
I have used an unmodified PSX for years now. I haven't dared touch it out of fear I would ruin the magic. Actually, it wasn't until this thread I even started to think about modifying it. My only concerns then were the SMPS, start-up tune and, possibly, a display. I have a semi-embarrassing confession coming up soon.
Hopefully I'll get a second PSX next week. Then I'll remove the transistors (?) on the output, for starters.
Hopefully I'll get a second PSX next week. Then I'll remove the transistors (?) on the output, for starters.
Hi guy's, just bedding in a completely new system so I've got a DIY amp/DIY speakers and modified PS1 running in all at once...in the garage....24/7!
Anyway, is it posible to set the CD to Replay?...makes life a lot easier!
Lee
Anyway, is it posible to set the CD to Replay?...makes life a lot easier!
Lee
I just joined the PS family when I received my ebay purchase this week (model 1001). Very happy with it for $20.40. I currently am running it through my TV until I build a tube amp for it next month. I will be doing an A/B test with it in a friends system against his Meridian CDP later this week. I plan to use the unmodified A/V out for now. I will put it into a new housing for better WAF. I have been looking for a small LCD TV with RCA input to use the guts of to add a display to the housing. Has anyone looked into this? I am concered that a 2 or 3 inch display may be too small. Has anyone figured a way to disable the start-up music? Thanks to all that have contributed to this thread as it has been a very interesting and informative read (yes I read the whole thing).
elvenears said:
I am thinking about this too. According to the spec sheet it wants 4.5-5.5V, would would be easy to source a simple wall wart for that, but do not know if that would help sonically.
There is a separate DAC on older versions but it's in the DSP in the later ones (The schematic is for the 750x-series version)
With a TV, yes.
What else, build yourself a small attachment to the parallel port that controls this. (Getting in complicated things. It would be nice : Be able to put a VFC/LCD, every functions on the remote, etc.)
BTW, the PSX is also a great VCD player with a daughterboard.
ttrentt said:
Yes, it might be a good idea - no need for large PSU for the whole PSX - but disconnecting the pins of a SMD IC like our DAC looks like a difficult job. Btw, where can I find a datasheet for the DAC (1002) ?
bzfcocon said:
The two large (relatively) caps above and below the DAC
(see http://feuerbacher.net/DogBreath/PS1/output/OutputBoardTop.jpg ) could theoretically be replaced. It is possible to get OSCONS with an SMD form factor. They are listed in the Farnell catalogue and I have seen them used in an old PC DAT drive, they have the distinctive violet coloured markings.
I have not done this, not sure my soldering skills are good enough, but it would seem a good idea ?
Being larger SMD parts, capacitors are relatively easy to replace - I have done this, you just need a small soldering iron. I even soldered non-SMD parts instead.
Now that I think, if one wants to disconnect the DAC power supply pins, there is no need to disconnect the pins themselves, but rather try to cut the respective PCB traces and solder wires to them.
Now that I think, if one wants to disconnect the DAC power supply pins, there is no need to disconnect the pins themselves, but rather try to cut the respective PCB traces and solder wires to them.
is it posible to set the CD to Replay?...
Really?..unfortunately I dont have a TV handy but I do have the remote control fitted.
Can anyone tell me which button or combination of buttons it is?
cheers
Lee
DragonMaster said:
Really?..unfortunately I dont have a TV handy but I do have the remote control fitted.
Can anyone tell me which button or combination of buttons it is?
cheers
Lee
About dedicated PSU's :
the goal of making a good / dedicated PSU in Music /Highend
equipment is , in my understanding, to simply have a clean
voltage, ripplefree, and to provide a source for current that
is able to deliver minute but very spontaneus changes is
currentflow without vibration in voltage. Thats why we have a
armada of Caps and other stuff.
But what is allways easily forgot is that the ultimate PSU is and
allways was a "Battery", becus it knows nothing else as DC, plain and simple.
Batteries are quite unpractical, but thats not to say that if one is
dedicated enough that he cant use a Truckbattery 100AH+ 🙂
and some ML3xx or staff behind it.
The PSU for the DAC can be a smalone, but it better has a very
clean voltage becuse its THE stage where the 1001011101's
are witchcraftet to anlogue signals 🙂
the goal of making a good / dedicated PSU in Music /Highend
equipment is , in my understanding, to simply have a clean
voltage, ripplefree, and to provide a source for current that
is able to deliver minute but very spontaneus changes is
currentflow without vibration in voltage. Thats why we have a
armada of Caps and other stuff.
But what is allways easily forgot is that the ultimate PSU is and
allways was a "Battery", becus it knows nothing else as DC, plain and simple.
Batteries are quite unpractical, but thats not to say that if one is
dedicated enough that he cant use a Truckbattery 100AH+ 🙂
and some ML3xx or staff behind it.
The PSU for the DAC can be a smalone, but it better has a very
clean voltage becuse its THE stage where the 1001011101's
are witchcraftet to anlogue signals 🙂
Well, the DAC should not consume very much power, so I guess a rather small battery could easily do the job. Even better if one removes muting caps and opamp !
Well, a battery indeed delivers perfect DC but that is not the only decisive parameter. One also has to make sure that that the rate at which the required current is provided is very high!
Mick
Mick