We need currents of the order of 1A and the current rate has to be high.
You are completely right, all I wanted to say is that things are not as simple as elevenears said. It is not sufficient to take just a battery. You need at least an additional capacitor, and maybe another bypass and here we go ......
You are completely right, all I wanted to say is that things are not as simple as elevenears said. It is not sufficient to take just a battery. You need at least an additional capacitor, and maybe another bypass and here we go ......
Mick wrote
"We need currents of the order of 1A and the current rate has to
be high.
You are completely right, all I wanted to say is that things are not
as simple as elevenears said. It is not sufficient to take just a
battery. You need at least an additional capacitor, and maybe
another bypass and here we go ...... "
This was what i wanted to point out.
Mick is right, the DC source should be able to deliver
a high "rate", not only a high current.
Or to say different:
how fast the DC source can change from ,
lets say,1mA to 2mA and back, this seems redicolous low,
but only fast caps are able to react very quick,
a battery arent good in this.
I never hookedup a DAC +/- inputs to a scope, so i have no clue if
it actually really needs a very fast PSU. But looking over to
HighEnd Marchitecture i get some start
If we consider the DAC as the beginning of the analogue signal-
chain then this little device should get full focus taking care that,..
hmm how to say...the analogue part of the DAC is actually
creating a "hullcurve", huellkurve in german, we can see this
complex curvature in voltage on a scope very good.
This Hullcurve, as i term it now, is the actual musicsignal,
consisting of a summ-up of all frequencys making the Musicsignal.
The changes and details in this pattern,
if u magnify it its well visible,
have to be literally created, or "manifested", according to the DAC'S signal by the PSU !
So if we fail here to provide best conditions for the DAC to power-up this "Hullcurve"
and thus create the signal as intended, it will be lost forever.
Its just a idea, no clue if its this importand ...
i hope my english is not this bad
"We need currents of the order of 1A and the current rate has to
be high.
You are completely right, all I wanted to say is that things are not
as simple as elevenears said. It is not sufficient to take just a
battery. You need at least an additional capacitor, and maybe
another bypass and here we go ...... "
This was what i wanted to point out.
Mick is right, the DC source should be able to deliver
a high "rate", not only a high current.
Or to say different:
how fast the DC source can change from ,
lets say,1mA to 2mA and back, this seems redicolous low,
but only fast caps are able to react very quick,
a battery arent good in this.
I never hookedup a DAC +/- inputs to a scope, so i have no clue if
it actually really needs a very fast PSU. But looking over to
HighEnd Marchitecture i get some start
If we consider the DAC as the beginning of the analogue signal-
chain then this little device should get full focus taking care that,..
hmm how to say...the analogue part of the DAC is actually
creating a "hullcurve", huellkurve in german, we can see this
complex curvature in voltage on a scope very good.
This Hullcurve, as i term it now, is the actual musicsignal,
consisting of a summ-up of all frequencys making the Musicsignal.
The changes and details in this pattern,
if u magnify it its well visible,
have to be literally created, or "manifested", according to the DAC'S signal by the PSU !
So if we fail here to provide best conditions for the DAC to power-up this "Hullcurve"
and thus create the signal as intended, it will be lost forever.
Its just a idea, no clue if its this importand ...
i hope my english is not this bad
One little remark : the DC source should only be capable to handle quick INCREASES in current (1 to 2 mA) but not decreases, as it is the DAC that "sucks the current" and not the source pushing it. In other words, the source should be able to keep up with the slew rate of the DAC.
I found the DAC datasheet, the current consumption is about 13 mA for the analog and 3 mA for the digital part.
The question is: should we use a separate PSU for the analog supply or for both analog and digital ? I incline to only use it for analog, in order to isolate it from the digital part - that's what people usually do, isn't it ? And let the digital supply as it is.
Hi
I have just got my third 1002 Playstation.
Seems it third time very lucky. It is more
articulate than numbers one and two. Certainly
my first PS1 was good but this number three seems
really good. Not one skip in 2 days CD or CDR!
Well this brings me back to my number two
Greystation. This one skips a lot and
I think we are looking at a short cable 11.4mv
adjustment to make it bit literate again !
I used to use CBM CD32 units with some success but
the detail is not in the Sony PS1 league.
Maybe this number 2 PS1 Playstation may end up as the best
sounding one when the bias and other voltages are fix up along
with other mods. All the playstations came with 3 month
warranties so I have to wait a while! Cost so far with Ir remotes
just US$80 for all three units. Remotes were only AUD$2.50ea.
Sweet!
Great thread
AnthonyPT
Enclose Pic of said PS1 with bargain remote.
Do like the dual PSU idea
I have just got my third 1002 Playstation.
Seems it third time very lucky. It is more
articulate than numbers one and two. Certainly
my first PS1 was good but this number three seems
really good. Not one skip in 2 days CD or CDR!
Well this brings me back to my number two
Greystation. This one skips a lot and
I think we are looking at a short cable 11.4mv
adjustment to make it bit literate again !
I used to use CBM CD32 units with some success but
the detail is not in the Sony PS1 league.
Maybe this number 2 PS1 Playstation may end up as the best
sounding one when the bias and other voltages are fix up along
with other mods. All the playstations came with 3 month
warranties so I have to wait a while! Cost so far with Ir remotes
just US$80 for all three units. Remotes were only AUD$2.50ea.
Sweet!
Great thread
AnthonyPT
Enclose Pic of said PS1 with bargain remote.
Do like the dual PSU idea
Attachments
One more thing from the datasheet: has anyone checked/measured the voltage at the VREFH pin of the DAC ? This controls the amplitude of the output signal and might be responsible for the lower output level of the PSX.
The output level scales with the voltage at this pin, for 5V you get 3,4Vpp at output, which does not seem to be the case at all. I would check it myself, but only next time when I have time to open the PSX again.
The output level scales with the voltage at this pin, for 5V you get 3,4Vpp at output, which does not seem to be the case at all. I would check it myself, but only next time when I have time to open the PSX again.
Hi guy's, just to give some feedback...
Did the complete bypass mod to the output as per Audio1st version and there is a substantial difference over stock through the RCA's. Whilst I was A/B testing with another unmoddified PS1 I hooked up the AV cable and A/B tested that against my bypassed one and it's really quite good, a lot better than the RCA connection and almost as good as the bypass mod.
Think I'll strip it down and put it in a nice case next.....
By the way, if anyone wants to put it on constant replay (I did it to run-in the DC blocking caps) you just need to start it playing and then press 'up' twice and then 'select' twice on the remote, or 'x' twice on the controller.
Thanks to everyone who helped along the way.
Lee
Did the complete bypass mod to the output as per Audio1st version and there is a substantial difference over stock through the RCA's. Whilst I was A/B testing with another unmoddified PS1 I hooked up the AV cable and A/B tested that against my bypassed one and it's really quite good, a lot better than the RCA connection and almost as good as the bypass mod.
Think I'll strip it down and put it in a nice case next.....
By the way, if anyone wants to put it on constant replay (I did it to run-in the DC blocking caps) you just need to start it playing and then press 'up' twice and then 'select' twice on the remote, or 'x' twice on the controller.
Thanks to everyone who helped along the way.
Lee
Attachments
Lostcause said:In fact I've got a whole DIY system running-in 24/7, in my office at the moment, my daughter needs to make some fine adjustments before she lets it into the home though!
Really nice system ! If I were starting out from scratch this is exactly the CD system I would build (PSone, T-amp, Fostex-based single driver).
I read your last post first and assumed you'd solved the repeat play button by supergluing a smartie to the top of the reset button.
and then there were three
Hi Chaps, I know this has been mentioned before...somewhere in the depths of the thread, however...
I have my bypassed PSI with my T-amp at the front but I have some CD's that could really do with a rocket up their a*se.
So I'm considering a pre.....I've really got the BUG!
It would seem silly to put another stage in there and I was going to re-box anyway so would it be a good idea to stick one of these on the back of the DAC?
Gain stage
or can anybody give me a simple (I emphasise simple, like me!) schematic that would not taint the sonics?
Thanks for any input
Lee
Hi Chaps, I know this has been mentioned before...somewhere in the depths of the thread, however...
I have my bypassed PSI with my T-amp at the front but I have some CD's that could really do with a rocket up their a*se.
So I'm considering a pre.....I've really got the BUG!
It would seem silly to put another stage in there and I was going to re-box anyway so would it be a good idea to stick one of these on the back of the DAC?
Gain stage
or can anybody give me a simple (I emphasise simple, like me!) schematic that would not taint the sonics?
Thanks for any input
Lee
The PSX, a 40-yr-old tube amp and Mårten Design speakers are possibly the best combo I have ever heard. It might not be that after Sunday when somebody brings over a modern single-ended beast to hook up with the PSX and Mårten Designs. It's his. I will not buy it, only listen to it.
My point is that I can see this work. But then, I thought the Sonic Impact T amp would be a terrible match for the Mårten Designs. I couldn't be more wrong.
This is basically a linestage/buffer, as said on the page. Here's a minimalist buffer you could look into.
My point is that I can see this work. But then, I thought the Sonic Impact T amp would be a terrible match for the Mårten Designs. I couldn't be more wrong.
This is basically a linestage/buffer, as said on the page. Here's a minimalist buffer you could look into.
Laserrepair and adjustment
Moin,
just 2 links 4 all:
http://www.chiptech.de/content.php?rad_id=116&ctr2=ca789a6fb4d9d36c11d41ecafd7d4d81
http://www.chiptech.de/radact/view....c11d41ecafd7d4d81&target=132&scriptparameter=
Feel free to use babblefish for a funny translation.
Carsten
Moin,
just 2 links 4 all:
http://www.chiptech.de/content.php?rad_id=116&ctr2=ca789a6fb4d9d36c11d41ecafd7d4d81
http://www.chiptech.de/radact/view....c11d41ecafd7d4d81&target=132&scriptparameter=
Feel free to use babblefish for a funny translation.
Carsten
I just got through adjusting the gain and bias pots on my PSX and though I would share with you a more accurate way (for me at least) of adjusting the pots.
Set your multimeter to KOhms adjust the pots to the following resistances:
bias pot: 11.97K - 12.65K
gain pot: 3.16K - 3.73K
[]1
O
[] []
2 3
To take the reading, place one probe at point 1 and the other probe at point 2.
Adjust to something within those ranges and leave it there, just a LITTLE movement will go a LONG way.
Edit: Bah, my ascii art got fudged, but anyway, you should be able to figure it out. The soldering pads just make a triange, the "tip" of the triangle is pad one. Also, just for references sake, point 1 on my psx faces to the left.
Set your multimeter to KOhms adjust the pots to the following resistances:
bias pot: 11.97K - 12.65K
gain pot: 3.16K - 3.73K
[]1
O
[] []
2 3
To take the reading, place one probe at point 1 and the other probe at point 2.
Adjust to something within those ranges and leave it there, just a LITTLE movement will go a LONG way.
Edit: Bah, my ascii art got fudged, but anyway, you should be able to figure it out. The soldering pads just make a triange, the "tip" of the triangle is pad one. Also, just for references sake, point 1 on my psx faces to the left.
Okay, something is definitely wrong. The instant that I plug the cord into the psu the 2A 125V fuse blows. Is this just because the condition of the AC line at my parents' house is poor or what? I don't really know much about this kind of stuff. Should I buy a line conditioner or something?