the gap
Hi Mick,
I could not find a defined stop for the clamp.
You can press it down until it sits on the crankcase and will not spin anymore. A new laserunit that I purchased arrived in this condition.
So best would be, if we compare the setting (distance between the crankcase to the ring on bottom side of the clamp) for a working unit.
I will grub for my feeler gauge and measure the gap this evening.
Peter
Mick_F said:
Hi Mick,
I could not find a defined stop for the clamp.
You can press it down until it sits on the crankcase and will not spin anymore. A new laserunit that I purchased arrived in this condition.
So best would be, if we compare the setting (distance between the crankcase to the ring on bottom side of the clamp) for a working unit.
I will grub for my feeler gauge and measure the gap this evening.
Peter
Ok. I will try to measure the distances on my four working units. I dont have a gauge but I will try to find a useful means.....
Mick
Mick
carawu said:
can you do the test again after the modifications?
i don`t have a 1002 do to it for myself but i think that the only
difference between the two models is the rca output with it`s opamp.
everything else is the same so they must sound the same.
Mick_F said:
Hi,
if you own an at least 15 years old car or motorbike...you might have a a feeler gauge in your tool box, normally used to set up the valve play of the engine.
I used it to measure the distance between clamp and crankcase of the laserunit (working unit!). The gap is 0,8mm.
I changed the distance for a new but skipping laserunit to this value and it worked immediately.
The values for gain, bias and laser intensity where set to values as posted by Mick and Dommi before.
Please try it out and if your values differ, let me know.
Peter
OK,
i measured 3 untouched new laserunits. We have to define how to measure. I think the best way to measure is to push the feeler gauge until it reaches the motor spindle while pushing the clamp down to prevent slackness of the motor. Have attention not to measure over the small screw of the motor.
I've mesured 0,3 mm on all three laserunits.
On my playing laserunit with my values of 1,56 V Bias and 1,76 V Gain i've mesured 0,6 mm. I will try to adjust these to 0,3 mm at the next days and post the result
regards Dommi
i measured 3 untouched new laserunits. We have to define how to measure. I think the best way to measure is to push the feeler gauge until it reaches the motor spindle while pushing the clamp down to prevent slackness of the motor. Have attention not to measure over the small screw of the motor.
I've mesured 0,3 mm on all three laserunits.
On my playing laserunit with my values of 1,56 V Bias and 1,76 V Gain i've mesured 0,6 mm. I will try to adjust these to 0,3 mm at the next days and post the result
regards Dommi
Dommi said:
Hi Mick and Dommi,
my results:
Laserunit 1 (works very well, the reference)
Bias 1,71 - Gain 1,81 - Laserintensity 12,4mV
Distance clamp to crankcase 0,8mm
Laserunit 2
Bias 1,71 - Gain 1,82 - Laserintensity 11mV (now raised to 12,4mV)
Distance clamp to crankcase 0,8mm
regards
Peter
Attachments
Hi Pieroh,
did you push the feeler gauge until it reaches the motor spindle ? On your picture it seems that you don't.
If we want to find general values we have to measure at the same way and we have to adjust to the same laserintensity. We find out that 11,4 mV is the correct value. Can you please adjust to this value and check if all CD's works well ?
Thanks
Dommi
did you push the feeler gauge until it reaches the motor spindle ? On your picture it seems that you don't.
If we want to find general values we have to measure at the same way and we have to adjust to the same laserintensity. We find out that 11,4 mV is the correct value. Can you please adjust to this value and check if all CD's works well ?
Thanks
Dommi
ps 7002
Here is a photo of the output of a 7002. There are no components under the board so it is easier to follow. I will be connecting onto the pads by pins 11 & 12, removing the 4, 10uf caps, connecting staight to new RCA's via the same caps as I used on previous PS's (models 1002 & 5552), and seeing how it sounds in comparison.
It is also easy to see the output stage and I have marked the outputs, L, R and G after this section.
Ps, is there a way to have switches on the PS to control Play, Stop, Prev and Next?
At the moment I just use remote, built in to the case thanks to Micks website, but wondered if there is a way to have onboard switches? A cct diagram with pin connections?
Thanks...
Here is a photo of the output of a 7002. There are no components under the board so it is easier to follow. I will be connecting onto the pads by pins 11 & 12, removing the 4, 10uf caps, connecting staight to new RCA's via the same caps as I used on previous PS's (models 1002 & 5552), and seeing how it sounds in comparison.
It is also easy to see the output stage and I have marked the outputs, L, R and G after this section.
Ps, is there a way to have switches on the PS to control Play, Stop, Prev and Next?
At the moment I just use remote, built in to the case thanks to Micks website, but wondered if there is a way to have onboard switches? A cct diagram with pin connections?
Thanks...
Attachments
ps 7002
As an amendment to my last post I shall only remove 2 caps, C423 and C424, the other 2 are the power supply caps, C406 and C407.
As an amendment to my last post I shall only remove 2 caps, C423 and C424, the other 2 are the power supply caps, C406 and C407.
Re: ps 7002
Thats quite a different beast isn't it ? The DAC has 4 less legs and the output is much simplified. Mind you, you can see the ceramic PSU bypass caps very clearly.
I guess you could gut a controller to figure out which buttons perfom which functions, then put in some small switches at the player end. I just use a £5 remote I got from ebay which plugs in the controller slot. Looks butt ugly but does the job
audio1st said:
Thats quite a different beast isn't it ? The DAC has 4 less legs and the output is much simplified. Mind you, you can see the ceramic PSU bypass caps very clearly.
I guess you could gut a controller to figure out which buttons perfom which functions, then put in some small switches at the player end. I just use a £5 remote I got from ebay which plugs in the controller slot. Looks butt ugly but does the job
Originally posted by Dommi
OK,
i measured 3 untouched new laserunits. We have to define how to measure. I think the best way to measure is to push the feeler gauge until it reaches the motor spindle while pushing the clamp down to prevent slackness of the motor.
____________________________
Sorry to disturb, but that´s the wrong way IMHO. Why?
If we push the clamp, we put the slackness of different motor´s into the measurement. Have you ever seen, that the motor in use moves the clamp up or down? There´s a magnetic field inside the motor, which "centers" the slackness.
If the distance Laser-Clamp is the goal, we have to measure like pieroh/Peter shows it, the slackness of the motor is out of the measuremnt this way.
Hope I make it clear.
Carsten
OK,
i measured 3 untouched new laserunits. We have to define how to measure. I think the best way to measure is to push the feeler gauge until it reaches the motor spindle while pushing the clamp down to prevent slackness of the motor.
____________________________
Sorry to disturb, but that´s the wrong way IMHO. Why?
If we push the clamp, we put the slackness of different motor´s into the measurement. Have you ever seen, that the motor in use moves the clamp up or down? There´s a magnetic field inside the motor, which "centers" the slackness.
If the distance Laser-Clamp is the goal, we have to measure like pieroh/Peter shows it, the slackness of the motor is out of the measuremnt this way.
Hope I make it clear.
Carsten
carawu said:
Hi Carsten,
i know what you mean, but i think you are wrong. First: it's verry difficult to measure the distance without lifting the clamp. Second : If the motor is not powerded, the spindle moves down until the stop. Pushing the clamp is only to prevent lifting it. You can't push it more than it fall down whan not powerded.
If someone is able to measure the gap without pushing the clamp, and without to lift it, ok. More important is to assign if we want to measure until we reach the spindle or only on the verge. I think the better way is to measure until we reach the spindle because some clamps on the verge are warped.
BR Dommi
Re: ps 7002
from what i have read the 7002 don`t sound good.
the models that worth the effort are 1002 5002 and 5502
audio1st said:
from what i have read the 7002 don`t sound good.
the models that worth the effort are 1002 5002 and 5502
How to identify the playstation model SCPH1000 from a photo?
Hi
I want to buy a early Playstation One model SCPH1000 from ebay here in Australia but most of the players for sale don't list the model number, only displaying a photo (top view, not rear view) of the player for sale.
From what I've read the SCPH1000 is the only Playstation model that has RCA plugs at the rear. Is there any other features on the front/top of the player (different buttons, labels etc) that will help me identify the SCPH1000 from the photo rather than e-mailing the seller for the model number?
thanks
Hi
I want to buy a early Playstation One model SCPH1000 from ebay here in Australia but most of the players for sale don't list the model number, only displaying a photo (top view, not rear view) of the player for sale.
From what I've read the SCPH1000 is the only Playstation model that has RCA plugs at the rear. Is there any other features on the front/top of the player (different buttons, labels etc) that will help me identify the SCPH1000 from the photo rather than e-mailing the seller for the model number?
thanks
Re: How to identify the playstation model SCPH1000 from a photo?
Hi Marcus,
I think that on the early PS, the open button and the power button have OPEN and POWER on them, latter PS's have symbols.
Hope this helps, Barry..
marcus1 said:
Hi Marcus,
I think that on the early PS, the open button and the power button have OPEN and POWER on them, latter PS's have symbols.
Hope this helps, Barry..
Re: Re: How to identify the playstation model SCPH1000 from a photo?
Unfortunately..
I have a 7501 and a 9001 here that both are labeled 'open' and 'power'. I haven't been lucky enough to grab the right one yet either
🙁
.....the kids are having fun anyway😉
audio1st said:
Unfortunately..
I have a 7501 and a 9001 here that both are labeled 'open' and 'power'. I haven't been lucky enough to grab the right one yet either
🙁
.....the kids are having fun anyway😉
Re: Re: Re: How to identify the playstation model SCPH1000 from a photo?
No way to no then..
I think it has got to a point where if it were a 1002, 1001, then the seller will be making a point of it and hiking the price up..
Barry.
mpmarino said:
No way to no then..
I think it has got to a point where if it were a 1002, 1001, then the seller will be making a point of it and hiking the price up..
Barry.
Why not ask the seller? I've done this several times and received quick responses. Just tell them where the model number is located. Or, you could ask them if there are RCA connectors on the back.
-Ken
Re: Re: Re: Re: How to identify the playstation model SCPH1000 from a photo?
I easily picked up 2, one from ebay by just asking the seller, and the second from the small ads...damn cheap too.
It appears that it's only the Germans that are hiking their prices up...at the moment anyway!
audio1st said:
No way to no then..
I think it has got to a point where if it were a 1002, 1001, then the seller will be making a point of it and hiking the price up..
Barry.
I easily picked up 2, one from ebay by just asking the seller, and the second from the small ads...damn cheap too.
It appears that it's only the Germans that are hiking their prices up...at the moment anyway!