Thanks for the wonderful thread. I now have 3 hours into a $5 CDP.
Is there any particular procedure to play a CD with the PS1? Lid closure on the normally open switch makes the spindle spool up and the laser head seek but then nothing happens.
I'm only willing to spend another couple hundred hours on this project.
Is there any particular procedure to play a CD with the PS1? Lid closure on the normally open switch makes the spindle spool up and the laser head seek but then nothing happens.
I'm only willing to spend another couple hundred hours on this project.
Oh ****, you are right, I should put it in series. I measured parallel to the cable which makes no sense of course.
Wait - I will repeat the test.......
(thanks!)
Wait - I will repeat the test.......
(thanks!)

Well, I am back with good values. Measured only pin 1 (7.6 V).
Idle 0.27A, Running 0.45 - 0.5 A, Startup 0.9 A max.
That makes sense I guess.
Mick
Oh ****, you are right, I should put it in series. I measured parallel to the cable which makes no sense of course.
Hehehe, that's the same thing everybody tries to do the first time they use a wired amp meter.
chipco3434 said:Thanks for the wonderful thread. I now have 3 hours into a $5 CDP.
Is there any particular procedure to play a CD with the PS1? Lid closure on the normally open switch makes the spindle spool up and the laser head seek but then nothing happens.
I'm only willing to spend another couple hundred hours on this project.
When you close the lid it will spin for 10 seconds or so. After it has stopped, press the start key on the controller and there you go....
Mick
DragonMaster said:
Hehehe, that's the same thing everybody tries to do the first time they use a wired amp meter.
The very bad thing about it is that this was not the first time I wired up an amperemeter (although I much more frequently measure voltages, thats right).

At least we've got rid of the 5 A now!
well this could make sence if the motors peak current is 0.9A and
the boards peak current is another 0.6A maybe the lm 317 couldn`t handle them or it could be something wrong with a resistors value which caused me problems and i changed it for a smaller one.
the boards peak current is another 0.6A maybe the lm 317 couldn`t handle them or it could be something wrong with a resistors value which caused me problems and i changed it for a smaller one.
hey guys if somebody have a ps2 try it as a transport and tell me what you think.
a few days ago my ps2`s psu died and since it`s 13.3volt i used an external linear stabilized psu.
well it sounds outstanding (a lot better than ps1)with my receiver`s internal DAC but since i didn`t try it before i can`t say if the psu is responsible for that.
try it tell me how good it sounds to you i repeat as a tranport because as cd player it`s horrible.
a few days ago my ps2`s psu died and since it`s 13.3volt i used an external linear stabilized psu.
well it sounds outstanding (a lot better than ps1)with my receiver`s internal DAC but since i didn`t try it before i can`t say if the psu is responsible for that.
try it tell me how good it sounds to you i repeat as a tranport because as cd player it`s horrible.
Moin,
the PS1 (5502) is rated @ 9VA at max!
Working on an audio Disc, it sucks 6VA from mains.
That said, transformed to the 7,6V or less...who put the 5A on the road???
LM317@1,5A is enough for this machine. Even at startup, large C after the reg for current peaks (10.000µF?) will be enough.
Carsten
the PS1 (5502) is rated @ 9VA at max!
Working on an audio Disc, it sucks 6VA from mains.
That said, transformed to the 7,6V or less...who put the 5A on the road???
LM317@1,5A is enough for this machine. Even at startup, large C after the reg for current peaks (10.000µF?) will be enough.
Carsten
carawu said:Moin,
the PS1 (5502) is rated @ 9VA at max!
Working on an audio Disc, it sucks 6VA from mains.
That said, transformed to the 7,6V or less...who put the 5A on the road???
LM317@1,5A is enough for this machine. Even at startup, large C after the reg for current peaks (10.000µF?) will be enough.
Carsten
nobody put the 5A on the road.
i just made a psu with lm 317 and 1000uf at the output and it didnt work.
then i went with lm 317 and 2n3055 which is capable of 5A and it works.
my psu (5502) is rated 17 watts.
mass damping
I have some sticky bitumastic damping material, and it crosses my mind that the metal casework that the CD transport sits on might be able to be damped a bit.
Anyone have a view on wether this metal is a significant heatsink. I guess damping underneath might be better, assuming clearance. I notice Dommi that you damp everything with a grey compound .
Just a thought
I have some sticky bitumastic damping material, and it crosses my mind that the metal casework that the CD transport sits on might be able to be damped a bit.
Anyone have a view on wether this metal is a significant heatsink. I guess damping underneath might be better, assuming clearance. I notice Dommi that you damp everything with a grey compound .
Just a thought
Re: mass damping
Good morning,
you are right, the gray compound is from car accessory, its a material for car bodys. Go into a car accessory shop and ask for. This is a verry good damping material to avoid resonances. I will post a picture with a blue led mounted. You can make some other modifications on the Laserunit. One is to remove the little black cap over the lense, and to paint the margin of the lense black. The other is to remove the complete black cap from transport. You have only to fix the copper cable in a way that it can move with the transport.
Regards Dommi
jives11 said:I have some sticky bitumastic damping material, and it crosses my mind that the metal casework that the CD transport sits on might be able to be damped a bit.
Anyone have a view on wether this metal is a significant heatsink. I guess damping underneath might be better, assuming clearance. I notice Dommi that you damp everything with a grey compound .
Just a thought
Good morning,
you are right, the gray compound is from car accessory, its a material for car bodys. Go into a car accessory shop and ask for. This is a verry good damping material to avoid resonances. I will post a picture with a blue led mounted. You can make some other modifications on the Laserunit. One is to remove the little black cap over the lense, and to paint the margin of the lense black. The other is to remove the complete black cap from transport. You have only to fix the copper cable in a way that it can move with the transport.
Regards Dommi
Attachments
Hy @ all,
can someone post a complete psu for 1002 please ? Is there someone who used different transformers for the different output voltages ?
Thanks
Dommi
can someone post a complete psu for 1002 please ? Is there someone who used different transformers for the different output voltages ?
Thanks
Dommi
Dommi, I am in the course of building a PSU. I will use two separate toroidals (10 V), one for the 7.6 V and one for the 3.6 V output. I will use two LM317 regulators in a regular circuit. The capacity will be someting like 1000uF before, 100uF and a snubber after the regulators.
Mick
Mick
Mick_F said:Dommi, I am in the course of building a PSU. I will use two separate toroidals (10 V), one for the 7.6 V and one for the 3.6 V output. I will use two LM317 regulators in a regular circuit. The capacity will be someting like 1000uF before, 100uF and a snubber after the regulators.
Mick
It sounds good, but what are toroidals and a snubber ?
I'm going to look for the parts for a tube stage.
Dommi
Re: Re: mass damping
Thanks Dommi,
What is the reason for the blue LED ?
I assume i't not like the Car or PC case modders ("pimp my playstation") 😀
I noticed that the transport is supported in 3 rubber tubes, but on one side this floating is damped by a plastic tab which rubs against a small rubber pad attached to the metal subchasis. I guess removing the tab and the rubber pad will allow the transport to 'float' better ?
Dommi said:
Good morning,
you are right, the gray compound is from car accessory, its a material for car bodys. Go into a car accessory shop and ask for. This is a verry good damping material to avoid resonances. I will post a picture with a blue led mounted. You can make some other modifications on the Laserunit. One is to remove the little black cap over the lense, and to paint the margin of the lense black. The other is to remove the complete black cap from transport. You have only to fix the copper cable in a way that it can move with the transport.
Regards Dommi
Thanks Dommi,
What is the reason for the blue LED ?

I assume i't not like the Car or PC case modders ("pimp my playstation") 😀
I noticed that the transport is supported in 3 rubber tubes, but on one side this floating is damped by a plastic tab which rubs against a small rubber pad attached to the metal subchasis. I guess removing the tab and the rubber pad will allow the transport to 'float' better ?
Dommi said:
It sounds good, but what are toroidals and a snubber ?
I'm going to look for the parts for a tube stage.
Dommi
Toroidals are "Ringkerntrafos". 😉
Snubbers are serial RC networks (like a Zobel) to decrease the ESR of the power supply. Have a look at this page for my implementation of CarlosFMs famous PSU. The snubber is the RC network just before the output.
Mick
Re: Re: Re: mass damping
I generally recommend to remove the small rubber pad glued on the metal internal cover of the PS1 indeed!
Mick
jives11 said:
I noticed that the transport is supported in 3 rubber tubes, but on one side this floating is damped by a plastic tab which rubs against a small rubber pad attached to the metal subchasis. I guess removing the tab and the rubber pad will allow the transport to 'float' better ?
I generally recommend to remove the small rubber pad glued on the metal internal cover of the PS1 indeed!
Mick
Dommi said:
It sounds good, but what are toroidals and a snubber ?
I'm going to look for the parts for a tube stage.
Dommi
Hi Dommi,
if you use a tube output stage you could use the heater windings at the transformer. The 6,3V to build a regulated supply for the 3,6V and the 12,6V-AC for the 7,6V supply.
Peter
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