Now I'm working on the psu for the last one.
I just upgraded the primary with two wima 1uf and changed the original mosfet with a new 800V one.
I'm also planning to swap the D1,2,3,4 diodes with some ba159.
This psu differs from the recent used on the 500*. Quick quest: are the diodes the same (they are marked) ? can I proceed?
I just upgraded the primary with two wima 1uf and changed the original mosfet with a new 800V one.
I'm also planning to swap the D1,2,3,4 diodes with some ba159.
This psu differs from the recent used on the 500*. Quick quest: are the diodes the same (they are marked) ? can I proceed?
Amazing- Just can't believe this thread is still alive after...What, 14 years?- I remember posting here at the very beginning, Post n°10. Does not make me feel any younger ;-)
Kudos to whom is still upgrading their playstation!
Kudos to whom is still upgrading their playstation!
Thanks for the reply... I have collected several SPCH-1001 units at this point (can't seem to pass them up when I see them.) Anyway, I disconnected the "defective' unit, put it on a shelf, and wired up the next in line. That's the beauty of a $25 cd player, if it goes bad you can either fix it or use it for parts.
The new one is playing perfectly.
The new one is playing perfectly.
exactamente.
once in a while I check for auctions under 20$, and I collected several 1002s for future mods or spare parts.
the only difficult unit to find at decent price is the japanese 1000, almost unique here in europe..
once in a while I check for auctions under 20$, and I collected several 1002s for future mods or spare parts.
the only difficult unit to find at decent price is the japanese 1000, almost unique here in europe..
good day.
this is the first I modded (go check the second at page 301), the "Humming Rhyno":
and this one is the last, almost complete, the "Toad Horror":
this is the first I modded (go check the second at page 301), the "Humming Rhyno":
and this one is the last, almost complete, the "Toad Horror":
Hello all.
Rejuvenating an old thread!
Got my old ps rigged up yesterday. It was still in the loft st my dad's house!
Have taken it out of the case and screwed it to a wooden platten.
It sounds ace! Will probably do a remote psu mod.
The controller won't skip beyond track 10. Is this a thing they do?
And sometimes it is picky with reading discs. What is the protocol to get a CD playing? I seem to have to press the start button just at the right time after the boot tune stops playing.
Rejuvenating an old thread!
Got my old ps rigged up yesterday. It was still in the loft st my dad's house!
Have taken it out of the case and screwed it to a wooden platten.
It sounds ace! Will probably do a remote psu mod.
The controller won't skip beyond track 10. Is this a thing they do?
And sometimes it is picky with reading discs. What is the protocol to get a CD playing? I seem to have to press the start button just at the right time after the boot tune stops playing.
After all these years, I am still impressed with the sound quality one can obtain following Mick Feuerbacher's Web site.
For the output stage, I installed the following:
On the stock power supply, I installed the following:
I also followed the instructions to set:
The tonality is very natural and the separation between instruments is very good. The overall presentation is very engaging and improved over the stock unit audio quality with more dynamic punch and extended frequency response.
For the output stage, I installed the following:
- 2x 4.7uF, 25V Elna Silmic II (RFS) electrolytic capacitors
- 2x 0.1uF, 400V Illinois Capacitor MPW film capacitors (bypasses the Elna Silmic II caps)
- 2x 22kohm Vishay-Dale RNF55 metal film resistors
- 20ga Duelund DCA20GA cotton-clad Tinned Copper hook-up wire
On the stock power supply, I installed the following:
- 0.1uF, 250V Evox-Rifa PHE420 film capacitor
- 150uF, 200V Panasonic ED electrolytic capacitor on primary stage reservoir position
- Various Panasonic FR low ESR electrolytic capacitors on secondary stage filter positions
- Nichicon Fine Tune electrolytic capacitor on secondary stage filter position
I also followed the instructions to set:
- Laser intensity
- Laser gain
- Laser bias
The tonality is very natural and the separation between instruments is very good. The overall presentation is very engaging and improved over the stock unit audio quality with more dynamic punch and extended frequency response.
In standard form through tpa3255 I have noticed the bass roll off. Albeit via a Denon Avr as pre amp.
Thanks for that concise over view of mods. That is the most understandable version of information I have read.
Thanks for that concise over view of mods. That is the most understandable version of information I have read.
great work Rich!!
btw Im having this problem for the first time:
my lens reads games flawlessy but refuses to play audio cds(original)
the disc spins stops after the logo sound, then, after a few secs, spins again.
then stops and goes in this loop forever!
any advice?
btw Im having this problem for the first time:
my lens reads games flawlessy but refuses to play audio cds(original)
the disc spins stops after the logo sound, then, after a few secs, spins again.
then stops and goes in this loop forever!
any advice?
no help for a desperate man?
do audio cds need some different bias/gain calibration?
anybody knows what the third trimmer is for?
do audio cds need some different bias/gain calibration?
anybody knows what the third trimmer is for?
SOLVED.
the mod probably delayed some reading processes during the boot that led to the spin/stop loop.
removed it and now works fine.
the mod probably delayed some reading processes during the boot that led to the spin/stop loop.
removed it and now works fine.
Late to the party I know...but a few questions please?
It's got a bit unwieldy trying to find what I want out of three hundred pages so excuse me asking directly.
My PS1 (SCPH-1002) has the AK4310 DAC not the 4309, Following Mick's website, (and assuming no difference in layout) I've completed bypass of the caps. Is there anymore I should do with the 4310. Will my output be low and is there another opamp. It all got a bit confusing at that point. It certainly sounds ok directly in to my amp. but what if I ever change amp?
Also: Blue light near the laser. A good thing or a bad thing or a makes no difference bling thing?
Thanks in advance
It's got a bit unwieldy trying to find what I want out of three hundred pages so excuse me asking directly.
My PS1 (SCPH-1002) has the AK4310 DAC not the 4309, Following Mick's website, (and assuming no difference in layout) I've completed bypass of the caps. Is there anymore I should do with the 4310. Will my output be low and is there another opamp. It all got a bit confusing at that point. It certainly sounds ok directly in to my amp. but what if I ever change amp?
Also: Blue light near the laser. A good thing or a bad thing or a makes no difference bling thing?
Thanks in advance
if you bypassed (via great Mik website process) some of the circuit I think you dont need any more tweaks since you left alone the op amp(s?) function.
just work on improving the psu performance and create some good damping system.
Btw I personally think the swap of the original opamp(s) with some "better" bb is the biggest step for enhancement
Did anyone ever solve the weird PSU problem with scph-5002s? Mine exhibits the same behaviour as mention som 200 pages back but I never saw a fix. Basically, when I fit a linear PSU to the 5002: 7.6v /0v and 3.6v /0v t to the first four pins on the mobo, (and ignore the reset) the disk continues to spin when the lid is closed. It also won't respond to the controller. If I power down and up again there's a chance it will work properly but 75% of the time it doesn't.