military grade Russian paper in oil caps
Hi Mick,
some guys from Russia and the Ukraine sell these caps on ebay.
Different varieties: paper in oil or teflon dielectric are available.
They are quite big though, the two I built into the Playstation are rated to 200V-DC. The sound quality is excellent!
I think, I will replace the transistor regulator with another LM317 board and place my DC-PSU close to the playstation, so that no heat is dissipated inside the playstation enclosure.
I will use a solar (battery) charge controller and simple transformer/bridge rectifier setup as battery charger....more pictures soon.
piero
Hi Mick,
some guys from Russia and the Ukraine sell these caps on ebay.
Different varieties: paper in oil or teflon dielectric are available.
They are quite big though, the two I built into the Playstation are rated to 200V-DC. The sound quality is excellent!
I think, I will replace the transistor regulator with another LM317 board and place my DC-PSU close to the playstation, so that no heat is dissipated inside the playstation enclosure.
I will use a solar (battery) charge controller and simple transformer/bridge rectifier setup as battery charger....more pictures soon.
piero
Hi Pieroh,
why you use the second LM 317 to regulate 8,5 V ? I also use a battery power supply with two LM 317 (like described in my posts). You can use one LM 317 to regulate the 7,6 V. From this regulated power you can go to the second LM 317 to regulate the 3,2 V. The maximum power you need for the PS is 1500 mA for a short time, than 900 to 1200 mA whan playing CD`s. This is no problem for the LM 317 with a small heatplate.
BR Dommi
why you use the second LM 317 to regulate 8,5 V ? I also use a battery power supply with two LM 317 (like described in my posts). You can use one LM 317 to regulate the 7,6 V. From this regulated power you can go to the second LM 317 to regulate the 3,2 V. The maximum power you need for the PS is 1500 mA for a short time, than 900 to 1200 mA whan playing CD`s. This is no problem for the LM 317 with a small heatplate.
BR Dommi
Attachments
Speaking for myself - using two separate lines for 7.6 V and 3.3 V is to get the two supplies fully independent. And the double regulation for the 3.3 V is to get it perfectly stable - a well approved trick frequently used in good CD-players and preamps.
Mick
Mick
two separate supply lines
Hi,
"speaking for myself" I have nothing to add ...
I think the two supply line solution is the better choice and more stable! The heat dissipated is distributed to three devices, this has the benefit of reducing the thermal stress for each single component.
Next thing will be to add a charge controller thas comes with a built-in LVD (low voltage disconnect) to prevent battery deep discharge. And I will use a bigger battery with 17Ah.
stay tuned
pieroh
Hi,
"speaking for myself" I have nothing to add ...
I think the two supply line solution is the better choice and more stable! The heat dissipated is distributed to three devices, this has the benefit of reducing the thermal stress for each single component.
Next thing will be to add a charge controller thas comes with a built-in LVD (low voltage disconnect) to prevent battery deep discharge. And I will use a bigger battery with 17Ah.
stay tuned
pieroh
Pieroh, thanks for the idea. I have just ordered some mil-grade pio caps on ebay. I will compare them to my Intertechnik Audyn plus of equal capacity.
..with a little help from your friends....
Hi Mick,
you are welcome!!
I and many others here benefit from your ideas a lot!
Pieroh
Hi Mick,
you are welcome!!
I and many others here benefit from your ideas a lot!
Pieroh
Ok Mick an Pieroh,
i will try to seperate the power supply and check if im able to hear a difference. Pleas let me know how the russian cap´s sounds !!
@ Pieroh,
i think is not neccessery to use a charge contr. with low voltage
disconnect because if the batt. pwr. fall below 9 V the LM 317 switch of the pwr. I use a relay to switch between Norm AC and bat. supply, so the 7 Ah batt. is ok for me.
BR Dommi
i will try to seperate the power supply and check if im able to hear a difference. Pleas let me know how the russian cap´s sounds !!
@ Pieroh,
i think is not neccessery to use a charge contr. with low voltage
disconnect because if the batt. pwr. fall below 9 V the LM 317 switch of the pwr. I use a relay to switch between Norm AC and bat. supply, so the 7 Ah batt. is ok for me.
BR Dommi
Battery deep discharge!
Hi Dommi,
if you discharge a lead acid battery as low as 9V, deep discharge will occur. This will damage the battery!
Have a look at the spec. sheet of your accumulator. For nearly all lead acid batteries the limit is 10,8V. This is called final discharge voltage.
The lifetime of a battery depends on how many charging/discharging cycles you apply und how deep these cycles are. Max. recommended depth of discharge (DOD) is 80%.
A good advice is to stop at a voltage minimum of 11,5 V and immediately charge the battery.
Panasonic for example recommends a max. charging voltage of 14,5V - 14,9V (voltage controll!) for cyclic use of their Gel-batteries.
A fully charged 12V lead acid battery will have a (open circuit /Ruhespannung ) voltage of ~ 12,9 - 13,2 V when you let it rest for some hours after charging.
I am now using three LM317 regulator boards:
One for the 7,6V rail, a second one is set to 7V as supply line for the 3,6V rail, works perfect.
Pieroh
Hi Dommi,
if you discharge a lead acid battery as low as 9V, deep discharge will occur. This will damage the battery!
Have a look at the spec. sheet of your accumulator. For nearly all lead acid batteries the limit is 10,8V. This is called final discharge voltage.
The lifetime of a battery depends on how many charging/discharging cycles you apply und how deep these cycles are. Max. recommended depth of discharge (DOD) is 80%.
A good advice is to stop at a voltage minimum of 11,5 V and immediately charge the battery.
Panasonic for example recommends a max. charging voltage of 14,5V - 14,9V (voltage controll!) for cyclic use of their Gel-batteries.
A fully charged 12V lead acid battery will have a (open circuit /Ruhespannung ) voltage of ~ 12,9 - 13,2 V when you let it rest for some hours after charging.
I am now using three LM317 regulator boards:
One for the 7,6V rail, a second one is set to 7V as supply line for the 3,6V rail, works perfect.
Pieroh
Thanks Guys your recent posts on the linear PSU inspired me to instal the one I made for a previous playstation in my newly modded one.
The change is clearly audible, I popped in Norah Jones - come away with me and it was if she was standing right there in front of me, the faint cymbals in the back ground of one of the tracks finally became distguinishable from a faint hiss that they sounded like before.
I'll get a few more pics up once its finally installed (I don't like showing my work when its this messy!!)
I'm still looking for a bamboo block like yours Mick, no places in the U.K seem to have one quite so nice (or without handles etc cut into it) , and shipping from the U.S. is out of the question!
Dan
The change is clearly audible, I popped in Norah Jones - come away with me and it was if she was standing right there in front of me, the faint cymbals in the back ground of one of the tracks finally became distguinishable from a faint hiss that they sounded like before.
I'll get a few more pics up once its finally installed (I don't like showing my work when its this messy!!)
I'm still looking for a bamboo block like yours Mick, no places in the U.K seem to have one quite so nice (or without handles etc cut into it) , and shipping from the U.S. is out of the question!
Dan
It doesnt need to be bamboo. The main point is that it is heavy and stiff. Another good solution is to use cross-grained wood (end grain). Sometimes nice and heavy ones of suitable size are sold as cutting boards.
Have a look at this one (expensive and too large, but you get the idea).
Mick
Edit: I just noticed that amazon also has bamboo boards
Have a look at this one (expensive and too large, but you get the idea).
Mick
Edit: I just noticed that amazon also has bamboo boards
Hi everybody,
I have spent days and days reading the many posts on this subject. I have also visited Mick F excellent website. I have decided to take out my son's PS1 (it's a 1002 model) today. I have quickly check laser, drill holes on the case over the PSU, connect audio cables from AV output, put it on a pillow and listen to make my own idea. I must say that I'm very impressed by the sound. I will spend more times listening and make comparison with/without pillow as suggested and also with other CD players.
Excellent job guys and thanks a lot for posting all this info, I will be back later after some listening.
Enjoy,
I have spent days and days reading the many posts on this subject. I have also visited Mick F excellent website. I have decided to take out my son's PS1 (it's a 1002 model) today. I have quickly check laser, drill holes on the case over the PSU, connect audio cables from AV output, put it on a pillow and listen to make my own idea. I must say that I'm very impressed by the sound. I will spend more times listening and make comparison with/without pillow as suggested and also with other CD players.
Excellent job guys and thanks a lot for posting all this info, I will be back later after some listening.
Enjoy,
Just a quick question to those of you who have exchanged the power supply: was it possible in your case to run the PS1 when supplying the voltage only via pin 1 to 4, i.e. could you leave pin 5 to 7 open as I described on my website?
I am asking because Dommy told me that he has tried several PS1 and most of them required voltage supply also via pin 5 and 6.
Thanks for the information,
Mick
I am asking because Dommy told me that he has tried several PS1 and most of them required voltage supply also via pin 5 and 6.
Thanks for the information,
Mick
Mick_F. We had assumed that your PS works with the power supply you made. Do you use power to all the pins ?
I am just about to make one using only pins 1-4.
I am just about to make one using only pins 1-4.
Sorry, I did not want to cause confusion. Of course my power supply works the way I described it, i.e. with voltage only on pin 1 to 4, with all PS1 I worked on. I also know from a few other people that they built it the way I wrote and it works perfectly. However, I was surprised when Dommy recently told me that some of his PS1 only work when he additionally connects pins 5 to 6 and otherwise do not run at all.
Therefore I am making this little survey. If other people than Dommy made this observation, I will make a corresponding note on my website.
Btw you can easily test it on the stock PS1 by opening the case and removing connections 5 to 7 on one side of the stock PSU connector.
Mick
Therefore I am making this little survey. If other people than Dommy made this observation, I will make a corresponding note on my website.
Btw you can easily test it on the stock PS1 by opening the case and removing connections 5 to 7 on one side of the stock PSU connector.
Mick
Mick, the first 1002 PS I put my linear psu into only worked around 20% of the time.
Quite often it would hang on the intro screen sound (stuck playing same note over and over again) It would work most of the time if I plugged the 3.6 in after the 7.6V.
In the end I scrapped this PS, and so far its working fine in my newly modded 1002.
It could have been a complete coinicdence to be honest.
Dan
Quite often it would hang on the intro screen sound (stuck playing same note over and over again) It would work most of the time if I plugged the 3.6 in after the 7.6V.
In the end I scrapped this PS, and so far its working fine in my newly modded 1002.
It could have been a complete coinicdence to be honest.
Dan
Mick_F. My 5552 has only 5 wires running from the SMPS to the main board.
From front to back, Brown, Red, Orange, Yellow, White ?
Do I still use the first 4 only ?
I will try and measure the voltages later,got to take the family out today !
Rob.
From front to back, Brown, Red, Orange, Yellow, White ?
Do I still use the first 4 only ?
I will try and measure the voltages later,got to take the family out today !
Rob.
Yes, the 5552 has less leads. I guess the 5th is for reset. Just leave it open and try if it still runs.
Mick
Mick
PSU all leads connected
[ If other people than Dommy made this observation, I will make a corresponding note on my website. ]
Hi,
because I had difficulties at startup sometimes , I connected all wires from the mainboard to the DC-PSU. Seems to work more stable now but could be coincidence...see picture.
A question:
With my reccently modiefied PS there is a strange phenomena. I set up bias and gain, adjusted the laser intensity (played around quite a bit) but it will still skip on the first track of a CD. This is a new laser unit though.
Any suggestions?
Pieroh
[ If other people than Dommy made this observation, I will make a corresponding note on my website. ]
Hi,
because I had difficulties at startup sometimes , I connected all wires from the mainboard to the DC-PSU. Seems to work more stable now but could be coincidence...see picture.
A question:
With my reccently modiefied PS there is a strange phenomena. I set up bias and gain, adjusted the laser intensity (played around quite a bit) but it will still skip on the first track of a CD. This is a new laser unit though.
Any suggestions?
Pieroh
Attachments
Mick_F. I have measured pin 1, (7.49v) 3, (3.55) and Pin 5 (using pin 4 as 0) (1.95v)
Should I still set voltage at 7.6 and 3.6 ?
Thanks for your help
Rob.
Should I still set voltage at 7.6 and 3.6 ?
Thanks for your help
Rob.