I am in the United States (Chicago)and it is unfortunate that I have no technical capacity. I was wondering if there is anyone on this thread in the US who I could get to modify my playstation 1. I have now bought three of them and they are very good. Anyway, I have read about the gains made to modification to the outputs among other mods. I would like to hire someone with the knowledge shared on this thread to modify one of my first generation Playstation 1 (1001). Thank you for your consideration. Bob
i am in the process of completely rehousing a ps1. im replacing the metal transport base (with the 3 spikes) with something made with molded heavy concrete! And re-orientate the transport. The flat cable for digital signal is very short. but i have discovered that the 7002 model (and probably other models) have the same transport but with longer cable, allowing more flexibility with mods. plus, they are newer and probably have less wear.
I will post all mods when i know it works. If anyone needs any details or positions for the 3 spikes, email me.
Im going to use the original power supply, separated, with extra capacitors on the output. With the belief this has the effect of being a pseudo battery supply.
The output from the dac seems to be 5Vdc offset + 1V ac signal, so blocking the dc is important if you want keep your speakers.
I will post all mods when i know it works. If anyone needs any details or positions for the 3 spikes, email me.
Im going to use the original power supply, separated, with extra capacitors on the output. With the belief this has the effect of being a pseudo battery supply.
The output from the dac seems to be 5Vdc offset + 1V ac signal, so blocking the dc is important if you want keep your speakers.
I am intending to use the attached power supply (s) as it will save me having to source parts and make my own.
It is said to be limited to 1Amp. Is there any way of increasing this, say by subsituting parts ?
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?TabID=1&ModuleNo=3488&doy=16m8
It is said to be limited to 1Amp. Is there any way of increasing this, say by subsituting parts ?
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?TabID=1&ModuleNo=3488&doy=16m8
Max output as per velleman site is 1.5A - although whether operating at this level would have any detrmimental effects I do not know, this is of course different to Mick's design and may not yield the same results - depending on where they are placed it would be good to implement the second part of Micks design to filter any noise out.
Also condsider using higher rated diodes for the bridge rectifier if you are set on going down that route
But hey im no expert!
To be honest in my latest PS (finished it on monday), I havent implemented the linear PSU yet (my last PS was dodgy/intermittent before I installed it - and now given up the ghost! (not wise storing a uncased PS in a box full of rubbish!))
Im currently using mundorf mkp rxf 3.3uf with 22k metal film resistors and I'm grinning from ear to ear everytime I hear it (the caps look really good poking out of the case too!)
Curiosity will get the better of me, and once I've found the soure of hiss in my system there will be a linear going in.
Dan
Also condsider using higher rated diodes for the bridge rectifier if you are set on going down that route
But hey im no expert!
To be honest in my latest PS (finished it on monday), I havent implemented the linear PSU yet (my last PS was dodgy/intermittent before I installed it - and now given up the ghost! (not wise storing a uncased PS in a box full of rubbish!))
Im currently using mundorf mkp rxf 3.3uf with 22k metal film resistors and I'm grinning from ear to ear everytime I hear it (the caps look really good poking out of the case too!)
Curiosity will get the better of me, and once I've found the soure of hiss in my system there will be a linear going in.
Dan
I/R receiver came free with a game I bought for my PS2, never thought I would use it, but it certainly came in handy!
It is the same as the one which Mick uses only in a translucent case.
At the moment it is just plugged into the controller port
Ebay item 280143471679 is the same one - different brand though, no suprise there though.
Not to sure of which I/R code it uses, I may try a little experimenting this weekend.
It is the same as the one which Mick uses only in a translucent case.
At the moment it is just plugged into the controller port
Ebay item 280143471679 is the same one - different brand though, no suprise there though.
Not to sure of which I/R code it uses, I may try a little experimenting this weekend.
Hi
Just finished painting my latest PS1 with
a BAM Laser assembly installed. So
far this one sounds the best and I must get
to sorting out the power supply away from
the player. Player is very articulate and runs at
11.4mv.
However I have another 1002 player that I do not
seem to be able to sort out. The laser is 11.4mv
and idle bias 1.7v Laser hunts so I wonder if
the gain is really way out. Any ideas of getting it
into a range where it will read CDs even easy to
read ones. I have worked on 11 PS1's and this is the
first to not respond to adjustment even with a laser
change from a bad ACM to a better ACM! Also came across
a Ir remote that gets confused with Sharp code. Will
post more details. Best Remote for me is my Futuretronics
which will read Joytech Ir sensors better than Joytech
hand remotes. The Joytech remote reads Futuretronic Ir
Sensors better than it reads its own Joytech Ir Sensor!
Must back up the code! Really enjoy this thread.
Regards
AnthonyPT
Just finished painting my latest PS1 with
a BAM Laser assembly installed. So
far this one sounds the best and I must get
to sorting out the power supply away from
the player. Player is very articulate and runs at
11.4mv.
However I have another 1002 player that I do not
seem to be able to sort out. The laser is 11.4mv
and idle bias 1.7v Laser hunts so I wonder if
the gain is really way out. Any ideas of getting it
into a range where it will read CDs even easy to
read ones. I have worked on 11 PS1's and this is the
first to not respond to adjustment even with a laser
change from a bad ACM to a better ACM! Also came across
a Ir remote that gets confused with Sharp code. Will
post more details. Best Remote for me is my Futuretronics
which will read Joytech Ir sensors better than Joytech
hand remotes. The Joytech remote reads Futuretronic Ir
Sensors better than it reads its own Joytech Ir Sensor!
Must back up the code! Really enjoy this thread.
Regards
AnthonyPT
Attachments
decided to have a break from trying to squeeze the last drop of hum from my system last night, so moved onto the playstation:
I added the remote into the case and also added some spikes.
The spikes are from oregondv.com and offer good value for money IMHO.
As a note, I would say putting the remote in the case is a bit more fiddly than the output mods but less chance of damaging something important with static.
Did anyone else who did this mod manage to keep the overall metal screen in place, I can't see it on Micks site and it really didnt seem like it wanted to go back on (kept all the other screens on though)
I reccomened this to everyone though, it makes the PS look a lot more 'finished' I'm really coming to like the Playstation case as well - I reccomend a quick buff using UniPol plastic polish to bring it back to a fresh grey finish.
Dan
I added the remote into the case and also added some spikes.
The spikes are from oregondv.com and offer good value for money IMHO.
As a note, I would say putting the remote in the case is a bit more fiddly than the output mods but less chance of damaging something important with static.
Did anyone else who did this mod manage to keep the overall metal screen in place, I can't see it on Micks site and it really didnt seem like it wanted to go back on (kept all the other screens on though)
I reccomened this to everyone though, it makes the PS look a lot more 'finished' I'm really coming to like the Playstation case as well - I reccomend a quick buff using UniPol plastic polish to bring it back to a fresh grey finish.
Dan
Nice work, Dan. Afaik you are the first to follow the suggestion to include the RC receiver into the case. As you say, it makes quite a difference optically.
I have put all the shields back into place. The overall shield sits a little tight put it still fits in.
Now, next give your PS1 a low-frequency damping base. You can follow the instructions on my page. This makes quite a difference sonically.
For trying this out, you can already hear the effect when you put the PS1 on a soft pillow. Listen to complex passages of a well recorded CD with and without the pillow ....
Mick
I have put all the shields back into place. The overall shield sits a little tight put it still fits in.
Now, next give your PS1 a low-frequency damping base. You can follow the instructions on my page. This makes quite a difference sonically.
For trying this out, you can already hear the effect when you put the PS1 on a soft pillow. Listen to complex passages of a well recorded CD with and without the pillow ....
Mick
DC-powersupply
Hi,
I made some experiments with a DC-powersupply today.
I use a 12V-battery and two LM317 voltage regulator boards to set the voltage to 7,6V and 8,5V.
Another transistor regulator (inspired by Mick!) with a TIP122 built into the PS, drops the voltage from 8,5V to 3,6V. The heatsick is far too small though, I will change this.
The audio signal is taken directly from the solder pads near the DAC and fed into two Russian military grade paper + oil caps (1µF) with 1M-Ohm to ground. A tube line preamp is used for further amplification.
Man, it is heard to believe, this sounds like beeing on a life concert, very dynamic, tight bass, very soft upper frequency range.
Try it!
Piero
Hi,
I made some experiments with a DC-powersupply today.
I use a 12V-battery and two LM317 voltage regulator boards to set the voltage to 7,6V and 8,5V.
Another transistor regulator (inspired by Mick!) with a TIP122 built into the PS, drops the voltage from 8,5V to 3,6V. The heatsick is far too small though, I will change this.
The audio signal is taken directly from the solder pads near the DAC and fed into two Russian military grade paper + oil caps (1µF) with 1M-Ohm to ground. A tube line preamp is used for further amplification.
Man, it is heard to believe, this sounds like beeing on a life concert, very dynamic, tight bass, very soft upper frequency range.
Try it!
Piero
