Hi Goff:
Try Rich in the U.S. at http://www.richspsxparts.com/. He carries new laser assemblies. They're mostly interchangeable between models. My Playstation 1 Model SCPH-1001 has the KSM-440ACM laser assembly.
Rich
Try Rich in the U.S. at http://www.richspsxparts.com/. He carries new laser assemblies. They're mostly interchangeable between models. My Playstation 1 Model SCPH-1001 has the KSM-440ACM laser assembly.
Rich
Re: To DOHbert
Hi Goff,
When you say "Broken"... What exactly is wrong?
Maybe it can be fixed?
Goff said:
Hi Goff,
When you say "Broken"... What exactly is wrong?
Maybe it can be fixed?
Re: Re: To DOHbert
Hi Lostcause..The black plastic case that covers the lens is cracked and the white nylon "tether" to the lens is also. Two ball bearings fell into the case. I guess this is a goner?
Lostcause said:
Hi Lostcause..The black plastic case that covers the lens is cracked and the white nylon "tether" to the lens is also. Two ball bearings fell into the case. I guess this is a goner?
icanryme2002 said:
Why not replace the complete unit? I use 9002 cd drives in my 1002 units, although you have to slightly enlarge the case opening and remove the plastic legs from the 9002 drive.
Also my favourite 'easy' way of upgrading the 1002 is to remove the tracks from the output stage to RCAs and then to internally wire across from the multi-av to the RCAs.
I have a problem that I hope someone can help me with.
I have bypassed the output stage as per Mick F's instructions by soldering a pair of 3.3uf caps directly from pins 15 & 16 to the RCAs and used 22k resisters between the + & - of the RCAs. I also cut the old traces to the RCAs.
When I connect the PS1 to my valve amp I am getting loud hum, could be 50hz, not sure. There is some music signal but the hum is much louder.
What have I done wrong?
I should mention that all was working fine before when using the AV out.
I have bypassed the output stage as per Mick F's instructions by soldering a pair of 3.3uf caps directly from pins 15 & 16 to the RCAs and used 22k resisters between the + & - of the RCAs. I also cut the old traces to the RCAs.
When I connect the PS1 to my valve amp I am getting loud hum, could be 50hz, not sure. There is some music signal but the hum is much louder.
What have I done wrong?
I should mention that all was working fine before when using the AV out.
Ok, I just answered my own question.
Somehow, I had disrupted the RCAs negative by damaging the trace on the underside of the pcb. Ran some wire to ground and viola. It lives.
Doing some AB testing now as I was careful to keep the AV circuit intact.
Looking forward to reporting on the results.
Somehow, I had disrupted the RCAs negative by damaging the trace on the underside of the pcb. Ran some wire to ground and viola. It lives.
Doing some AB testing now as I was careful to keep the AV circuit intact.
Looking forward to reporting on the results.
Hello I am new on this site and got interested in PS1 because of several reports on the net I recently bought a SCPH1000 and a SCPH1002
I modified both i a w Mick's output stage mod They sound real good now This compared with my Pioneer stable platters The output stages of my pioneers are also modified They use opa2604 and opa2134 opamps and the sound of the PS1 is better!!! More clarity and deeper bass I almost could not believe my ears but it is true They work so well with my vacuum tube EL84se amp only 7 watt
I think these playstations wil become my main CDP for the future
Now I still have to recase the unit and power supply or build a new one as explained on Mick's website I believe this will bring another improvement of the sound
Thanks for all the info i found on this forum and several websites Cheers and enjoy!!!
I modified both i a w Mick's output stage mod They sound real good now This compared with my Pioneer stable platters The output stages of my pioneers are also modified They use opa2604 and opa2134 opamps and the sound of the PS1 is better!!! More clarity and deeper bass I almost could not believe my ears but it is true They work so well with my vacuum tube EL84se amp only 7 watt
I think these playstations wil become my main CDP for the future
Now I still have to recase the unit and power supply or build a new one as explained on Mick's website I believe this will bring another improvement of the sound
Thanks for all the info i found on this forum and several websites Cheers and enjoy!!!
Same as Mick 3.3uf but from philips and 22K and it works well
I also ordered a new laser for the SCPH1000 a KSM440BAM
i s o a KSM440AAM since it is skipping and i cannot regulate the values to exact figures 11.4mv laser 1.70v bias and 1.82v gain
The SCPH1002 has a KSM440ACM laser and runs perfect at this figures only dif is 24.4 mv on laser
Enjoy!!!
I also ordered a new laser for the SCPH1000 a KSM440BAM
i s o a KSM440AAM since it is skipping and i cannot regulate the values to exact figures 11.4mv laser 1.70v bias and 1.82v gain
The SCPH1002 has a KSM440ACM laser and runs perfect at this figures only dif is 24.4 mv on laser
Enjoy!!!
i have done all mick's mods. with the difference of a lower value capacitor (i forget value but less than 1uF) and higher value resistor 50k, with the belief it will give a sharper cut off rate.
I have also added a 2200uF electro cap across the 3.6V supply at the main circuit board. No huge difference in sound quality, but must reduce noise in the sensitive dac, so should help things.
I have now started a gainclone amp. can anyone confirm this plan - i can remove the resistor (22k in micks mod) if the volume pot and other resistor to ground equal the 22k/50k? If it make a loud pop as the input is clicked to cd i will need to add some kind of resistor, right?
I have also added a 2200uF electro cap across the 3.6V supply at the main circuit board. No huge difference in sound quality, but must reduce noise in the sensitive dac, so should help things.
I have now started a gainclone amp. can anyone confirm this plan - i can remove the resistor (22k in micks mod) if the volume pot and other resistor to ground equal the 22k/50k? If it make a loud pop as the input is clicked to cd i will need to add some kind of resistor, right?
Hi Wolly, I left out that resistor when I did my combo unit, like you said, the pot is it's direct replacement.
On another note, I have just finished dinner......... and how many other systems can have their transport replaced mid-course due the original motor making an awful whining noise
I must have music to aid the digestion
so up I got and within 5 minutes the tunes were back on😀
I simply
this set-up
On another note, I have just finished dinner......... and how many other systems can have their transport replaced mid-course due the original motor making an awful whining noise
I must have music to aid the digestion
so up I got and within 5 minutes the tunes were back on😀 I simply
this set-upHello @ all.
I don`t was here for some time, and I wonder that there are still ideas about modification of the PS. I want to give some impressions about my experiences with PS 1002.
I began with the modification some years ago and I`m very happy with this kind of CD player. I modified the output stage by removing the blocking caps and fit the PS in a new case. I use oil/paper caps. But I find out that it`s very important what amp and loudspeakers are used. In some configuration Mundorf or V-caps are better than oil/paper caps. I fix the Laserunit with drop rods and use a coax cable for internal connection. It`s also very important to protect the DAC against microphonie. I`ve done this with carkit. Very good !!
I don`t understand that some of you build a new power supply instead to use a battery. I read the postings about the battery power, but I don`t agree. The PS has a constant current of round about 1 A. It is not necessary that the battery have to change very quickly the current. I use a 7Ah lead accu without any problems. For check of sounding I can switch between Battery and ac power. Even tough modified the AC power supply with fast diodes, better caps and shielded it with copper, the sound with battery is much better.
The second that I can`t understand is the adjustment of the Bias and Gain. Most of the PS`s are adjusted to a Gain of 1,8 -1,85 and Bias 1,7. I spoke with many owners and all of them had some problems to read ALL CD`s. So I checked 3 other original PS`s. The Values for Bias 1,46 and for Gain : 1,8. The distance between Motor and CD Support was 0,4 mm.
So I think the values 1,7 and 1,85 maybe wrong. Please try it, if you can¡¦t read any kind of CD R or original CD`s.
I cut the frequency at round about 16 Hz ( -3dB ) because if there is no cap in the input of the amp, you can get subsonic frequency from CD to the amp and to the loudspeakers, this means destruction of the speakers. So be careful with frequencies below 16 Hz. You can hear subsonic frequency for example on : Sayed Balaha : The devil and the dancer, Track 4. A very very good recorded percussion cd. So try it, but be careful with loudness
So i wish you a nice day.
BR Dommi
😀
I don`t was here for some time, and I wonder that there are still ideas about modification of the PS. I want to give some impressions about my experiences with PS 1002.
I began with the modification some years ago and I`m very happy with this kind of CD player. I modified the output stage by removing the blocking caps and fit the PS in a new case. I use oil/paper caps. But I find out that it`s very important what amp and loudspeakers are used. In some configuration Mundorf or V-caps are better than oil/paper caps. I fix the Laserunit with drop rods and use a coax cable for internal connection. It`s also very important to protect the DAC against microphonie. I`ve done this with carkit. Very good !!
I don`t understand that some of you build a new power supply instead to use a battery. I read the postings about the battery power, but I don`t agree. The PS has a constant current of round about 1 A. It is not necessary that the battery have to change very quickly the current. I use a 7Ah lead accu without any problems. For check of sounding I can switch between Battery and ac power. Even tough modified the AC power supply with fast diodes, better caps and shielded it with copper, the sound with battery is much better.
The second that I can`t understand is the adjustment of the Bias and Gain. Most of the PS`s are adjusted to a Gain of 1,8 -1,85 and Bias 1,7. I spoke with many owners and all of them had some problems to read ALL CD`s. So I checked 3 other original PS`s. The Values for Bias 1,46 and for Gain : 1,8. The distance between Motor and CD Support was 0,4 mm.
So I think the values 1,7 and 1,85 maybe wrong. Please try it, if you can¡¦t read any kind of CD R or original CD`s.
I cut the frequency at round about 16 Hz ( -3dB ) because if there is no cap in the input of the amp, you can get subsonic frequency from CD to the amp and to the loudspeakers, this means destruction of the speakers. So be careful with frequencies below 16 Hz. You can hear subsonic frequency for example on : Sayed Balaha : The devil and the dancer, Track 4. A very very good recorded percussion cd. So try it, but be careful with loudness
So i wish you a nice day.
BR Dommi
😀
Has anybody tried to mod the CD drive to be slot or tray loading?
I only recently became aware of the usefulness of the PSX as a CD player and I bought one last weekend.
Ideally I hoped to put it in a mini ITX PC case, but the problem it the top loading CD drive. Being a borderline obsessive compulsive an elegant installation matters to me as much as the sound quality, and even the best mods such as the dynastation look a little too home-made.
It occurred to me that there might be a short cut to mounting a tray or slot loading drive if you could simply swap the laser unit for one from a PC drive. It may just be a co-incidence, but I took apart a couple of Sony CD-ROM drives and they had a very similar 16 line ribbon cable connecting the laser unit to the rest of the drive.
I was hoping to ask the opinions of some seasoned PSX modders before I blundered in and destroyed mine.
🙂
I only recently became aware of the usefulness of the PSX as a CD player and I bought one last weekend.
Ideally I hoped to put it in a mini ITX PC case, but the problem it the top loading CD drive. Being a borderline obsessive compulsive an elegant installation matters to me as much as the sound quality, and even the best mods such as the dynastation look a little too home-made.
It occurred to me that there might be a short cut to mounting a tray or slot loading drive if you could simply swap the laser unit for one from a PC drive. It may just be a co-incidence, but I took apart a couple of Sony CD-ROM drives and they had a very similar 16 line ribbon cable connecting the laser unit to the rest of the drive.
I was hoping to ask the opinions of some seasoned PSX modders before I blundered in and destroyed mine.
🙂
Heres one for all of you guys that have done the linear PSU mod,
After an initial hiccup (I put the regulator the wrong way around) my power supply is working as per Micks design.
However, it only seems to work around 20% of the time, some times it will start up and 'hang' on the intro screen with the intro tune stuck playing. Other times it will just spin the disk continually and the laser can be heard moving up and down.
I currently only have relatively small heastsinks on the reg's but once 'started' I've had it playing for over an hour with no faults.
+ this error also happens when the unit is cold.
Is there a special way the power should be applied (7.6 first then 3.6 afterwards) or something to that effect?
Any thoughts welcomed.
Dan
After an initial hiccup (I put the regulator the wrong way around) my power supply is working as per Micks design.
However, it only seems to work around 20% of the time, some times it will start up and 'hang' on the intro screen with the intro tune stuck playing. Other times it will just spin the disk continually and the laser can be heard moving up and down.
I currently only have relatively small heastsinks on the reg's but once 'started' I've had it playing for over an hour with no faults.
+ this error also happens when the unit is cold.
Is there a special way the power should be applied (7.6 first then 3.6 afterwards) or something to that effect?
Any thoughts welcomed.
Dan
Dan, I am interested in building the PSU for the PS. Do you have any pics of your build ? How would you say the PSU improves the PS over the stock Switch mode supply.
I wouldnt say I'm that great at describing sound, apart from the frequency response I see most descriptions as having snake oil essence to them!
I have a stock unmodded 1002 and my linear psu, new output stage etc version, the differences are most certainly noticable in A/B testing.
One thing though, it ended up costing me alot more than I first imagined, the cost of the linear PSU is around £80 which I didnt expect.
Im using it with my ESP active 2way crossover and 4 LM3875 gainclone (peter daniel premium) monoblocks into at the moment some jamo bookshelves (hivi d6.8 + sd1.1a tweeter bookeshelves currently being assembled).
The overall effect in simple words is amazing!
Despite the cost, to quote anothert builder I dont think I would want to be without the linear PSU.
I'll see if I can get a few pics up tonight (its a compete birdness at the moment as Im still doing initial testing)
Dan
I have a stock unmodded 1002 and my linear psu, new output stage etc version, the differences are most certainly noticable in A/B testing.
One thing though, it ended up costing me alot more than I first imagined, the cost of the linear PSU is around £80 which I didnt expect.
Im using it with my ESP active 2way crossover and 4 LM3875 gainclone (peter daniel premium) monoblocks into at the moment some jamo bookshelves (hivi d6.8 + sd1.1a tweeter bookeshelves currently being assembled).
The overall effect in simple words is amazing!
Despite the cost, to quote anothert builder I dont think I would want to be without the linear PSU.
I'll see if I can get a few pics up tonight (its a compete birdness at the moment as Im still doing initial testing)
Dan